ihateduke

My 99 RX has about 190k on it and I had been hearing a noise (for about 2 years or more) that sounded like it was coming from the rear struts. I finally replaced all 4 struts this weekend and to my amazement, the rear shocks were in bad shape. When you push down the rod, it wouldn't come back up! I reused the original springs, but now I'm starting to wonder if by chance those springs are worn out since they were doing all the suspension in the rear? The shocks don't have that much strength compared to the springs, but the springs definitely seemed weak during removal, as compared to the front ones. Any ideas? Should I just not worry about it? I just don't want to wear out the new shocks b/c the springs are weak.

Thanks a million for those documents! That's much easier to follow than the old repair manual. I read through the LU document, which goes into great detail on how to remove the oil pump. While it may be a good idea to remove all the oil pans and clean them, I'm trying to minimize work on this job. Now that I have a brand new timing belt installed, it's periodically squealing because it's getting oil on it. The Oil Pump was completely covered with oil, which makes me think it's the culprit, although it could be the valve cover above (which I will check tomorrow). On page 11 of the LU document (http://www.box.net/shared/o55c5697lt/1/9328827/92955187), it appears that you can remove the oil pump via the 9 bolts, without removing all the other stuff (oil pans, etc.). Is that correct?

You were exactly right. It actually came out really easy. Well this was my hope, but I didn't want to screw it up worse! In the manual it lists the "water pump bolt" as 69 ft-lbs. They are clearly talking about some other bolt!!! Usually I buy OEM parts, but this happens to be an AC Delco water pump. My other one looks fine, but it has 180k on it and the dealership said it was making noise. It's going to be funny if it was fine all along and it's my oil pump that's making noise! THANK YOU for your help!

While performing a timing belt change, I realized that there was a small oil leak on the rear/passenger side of my motor. It appears to be coming from the oil pump. I have the general instructions for how to replace one of these, but I was curious if I needed to replace the entire oil pump or if there was just a seal or specific part that I could swap. Any help would be appreciated!

Here's the photo again. It didn't seem to stick the previous time.

If you look inside the block, where the good stud is located, you can see what looks like the head. If that's the case, I don't know of anyway to remove that stud. I guess I could cut it off flush, then drill out the rest. Rethread/tap the hole and use a new size bolt. Alternately, I may just hope that it's not really needed and hook everything back up and pray.

I made a huge mistake tonight on my 99 RX300. I had removed my water pump and just put the new one back on. I was torquing the bolts per some WRONG info. The water pump has 2 studs, a bunch of bolts and 2 nuts that go on two small studs. So one of the small studs is the problem here. See the attached photo. The upper one snapped off. I don't think I can remove this stud like I did the others. I think it has to be pulled back through, which is impossible (or I have to rip the whole motor block apart). Just curious if anyone has any ideas? I do have stud extractor tools, but I'm afraid to try it on one of these for fear that I may break something else.

Please cancel this post. I accidentally posted this twice.

FWIW, I just realized that the oil pump is in that area and is the most likely culprit. Jeez, I'm gonna have a new car after I finish all these projects!

I'm getting ready to start this project today. I'm getting an oil leak from the belt tensioner area. My guess is that I will uncover from where after I tear all the covers off. Maybe that's a sign that the water pump is going bad? Although, I would have expected to have coolant leaking instead. When swapping the water pump, do you need to use any sort of silicone on the gasket? The video doesn't show that, but I think my water pump came with a small tube.

I found the following directions on how to replace the starter. Just curious, do you have to remove the starter to replace the contacts or can that be done while it's still attached? I'm sure it will make sense when I get in there, but I wanted to prep as much as possible. My contacts are on the way! The starter is surprisingly easy to replace. First take off the air filter box. Open the air filter box and remove the filter. Disconnect the air line from the air filter box which connects to the throttle body (this is done using a 10 mm socket or Phillips screw driver and loosening the clamp). Disconnect the sensor and vacuum line which connect into the air filter box. Next, remove the 3 bolts from the bottom of the air filter box. Once this is done you should be able to remove the air filter box as one complete piece and take out of engine compartment (place bolts inside the box and place to the side of your working area). Next disconnect both battery terminals. Remove battery bracket which holds battery in place (this runs across the top of the battery and bolts into the sheet metal along the front of the engine area). Remove battery from engine compartment. Remove rectangle casing surrounding the battery. Once the air filter box and battery have been completely removed, you will see the starter just to the left of where the air filter box and battery were. The starter is approximately level with the base support of the battery. The starter has 2 bolts to be removed along with the contact terminal and sensor. Remove the two bracket bolts which bolt into engine (should be 14 mm I think) which are locate on each side of the starter (look at the replacement to locate exact position). Next remove the contact terminal (should be 10mm) connected to starter. Next remove sensor clip (this is done by squeezing the end and pulling off). \ Once starter is removed: Bolt contect connection onto new starter (should be 10mm). Re-insert sensor clip to new starter by pushing it in until you hear it click or until it is securely in. Next, line up starter bolt holes with bolt holes on engine block and start threading BOTH bolts before tightening one down. Snug bolts securely. NOW YOU HAVE REPLACED THE STARTER!!!! Replace Battery and terminal connections (red to + and black to -) and battery bracket. Replace air filter box and reconnect all connections taken loose. Bolt 3 bolts at base of filter box back to original position. NOTE: when replacing filter box, make sure the opening on the right hand side of box (large open hole) lines up with air intake opening from right side of engine compartment. Connect hose back to throttle body by tightening clamp. Replace sensor connections and vacuum line to air filter box. Replace air filter if needed in filter box. Clamp air filter down.

You guys are life savers! I believe you're exactly right. Just to think that this could end up being repaired by a $5 part, which probably only cost a penny to make!

One other note. I did test with multiple keys and that had no effect. Also, when I turn the key to START there is a clicking sound that comes from the motor area. That makes me wonder if the ignition switch is fine but maybe the starter is failing.

Over the past 2-3 months, when I would crank my car, sometimes the switch wouldn't do anything. To be clear, the power is fine and the Accessory and On part works fine. It's only when I turn it to crank the engine that nothing would happen. Usually if I tried it again, it would work fine. Just to be safe, I got a brand new battery this weekend because the old one was leaking really bad. On one specific time, when I cranked the car, it continued to crank even after I removed the key (which is kind of the opposite of the general problem). Anyway, I'm pretty sure the ignition switch is simply warn out or some related component. I ordered one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400160051969&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT, although it hasn't arrived yet. As of today, I can't even get the car to crank. Does anyone know if this is definitely the part that I need? If it is, any suggestions on how to replace it. I ripped the dash apart and I see a long silver cylinder and I assume the switch is under it somewhere. I haven't gotten any further, because without the switch it won't help. Thanks for any advice! Chris

Wow, that's impressive. Thanks for the link. I'm not sure what I was trying to do the last time. It may been related to the bracket that's in front of the water pump. I'm not sure if I ever got it off or not. Maybe I tried to remove something else to make room. On a side note, I do remember using an impact wrench to remove the harmonic balancer pulley. I didn't have a puller to use, but the pulley slid right off. Is that a bad sign? Does that mean the pulley was worn out?

I'm about to change my belt as well and I need to replace my waterpump. The last time I tried, I need a special tool to remove the waterpump (it was the pulley I believe). Does anyone know where I can get that tool?

My wife just got a 2010 IS250 RWD. I was curious if there were engine mods that I could do to improve gas mileage? I'm assuming that switching to synthetic oil may help. What about a new air intake? Upgraded computer chip? Anything else?

99 RX300, 150k This is a strange problem that I can't figure out. In the morning or after a long day of work, I can crank up my car with no problems. As soon as I put it in any gear it will shut off. If I leave it in Park and rev it up, it goes up, but as soon as I back off of the gas it will shut off. Usually, I just wait about 20 seconds or so and it usually works fine. If it was the battery, then it should have problems cranking, which it doesn't. It seems to be worse when it's colder outside, but it's hard to say for sure. This has been going on for many years, but it doesn't always happen. Any thoughts?

I believe I'll try your recommendation tomorrow. In the meantime, I tried and failed at wedging something into the flywheel. It actually pulled the screwdriver in a bit and scratched a small line into the flywheel a few inches up from the actual gear teeth. Any idea what that will mean? It's possible it's even slightly dented. For now, I'll just let this issue go, but I have this terrible feeling that when I drive it again there will be some sort of vibration.

I found this site with the similar issue. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html This person put a breaker bar on the bolt, let it touch the ground, then cranked up the engine real quick. That was enough to break it loose. The manual states that the bolt has 159ft/lb of torque. Are there any better ideas than this?

I'm doing the timing belt and water pump replacement. I've gone through about half of the work, which is taking everything apart. Now I'm at the part where I have to remove the bolt from the main crankshaft pulley. This bolt requires some serious torque to remove it and the directions say to "hold the pulley". So far this is impossible to do. Is there any trick to doing this? I've tried to put a screwdriver through one of the holes and turn it until it gets stuck, but that isn't working. I've heard that there may be a dust cover on the flywheel that would give me a new spot to stick a screwdriver in to prevent the inside parts from turning. Any thoughts?

Is there any fluid that needs to be changed on the rear axle?

I've found lots of info on changing the rear differential on the AWD. Is the process the same for a 2WD?

My 99 RX300 has almost 130k miles on it. I'm finally ready to do the timing belt replacement. I have two related questions. 1. Should I buy the parts from Lexus? I'm planning on replacing the belt, two pulleys and the water pump. Camshaft Timing Belt (13568-09080) Water Pump (16100-29085) Idler Sub (13503-0A010) Idler Sub (13505-2010) I have found some timing belt kits on ebay and through auto parts stores for about $150. The parts from Lexus are about $500. 2. Do I have to use a spanner wrench to do the repair?

I've got a new problem that is starting to happen once a day or more. I can crank my car with no problems at all. It seems to idle like normal. Then as soon as I put into gear "Reverse or Drive" it just shuts off. If I let it run for 30 seconds and/or rev the motor, then it works fine. It also works if I give it gas real fast, however, that's usually dangerous due to my parking situation. I've been through all of the idle-related posts and done all of the IACV, air filter and other cleanings. Most were pretty clean already. I've also run Fuel System cleaner through my car in the last month. The only thing I haven't done is change the Fuel Filter, which is built into the gas tank. At one point a few months ago, it would start idling poorly when I was stopped at a stoplight. That hasn't happened since the fuel cleaner was run through. Any ideas? Thanks, Chris