Musada

Sorry...Well so far Over the last year I've replaced -Crankshaft Sensor + bad wiring -Timing belt, Water pump, Thermostat -Fuel Pump, Fuel filter -Starter, Alternator, Battery -Both Catalytic converters - Ignition coil closer to the driver side Check Engine light is not on. My car is now overheating as well. Temperature gauge stays in the middle while driving, but while stopped, begins to rise very high. I don't think the electric fans are coming on..Thinking it may be the radiator fan relay. What do you all think?

90 LS400 A few weeks ago when i was leaving from work. My car wouldn't start. It would keep turning but no start. Finally after about 20 mins it decided to start. A couple days ago, the same thing happened, only it wouldnt start. Let it sit for a few hours and still nothing. Finally paid for a tow and had it hauled to a shop only for the shop to tell me the car started and theres not much they can do since it started fine. So i wasted money for a tow on that. This morning it happened again. It would just turn and no start. But finally cranked about 5 mins later. Anyone have any ideas on what it could be. Check engine light isn't on. btw

Sorry for not mentioning..it's a 90 ls400. Car has a brand new starter, fuel filter,fuel pump, crankshaft sensor, both cats aren't even year old...only use premium, recently used seafoam to clean out gas , tune up was done at a reputable shop

The car has been running very rough the last few days, and this morning I tried to leave work the car wouldnt start. The car was turning but not firing up. I had my coworker come out and check it. He said the car isn't getting spark Then after about 30 mins i tried again, and the car turned and I'm assuming it finally got spark and fired right up, but still runs rough while I'm llightly pressing the gas, it sputters a lot

Atlanta, GA I have a 1990 Lexus LS 400 for sale, asking $1200 price. Car has 123,000 miles, but timer stopped a month ago. Body is in decent condition except for a few scratches and paint is fading on hood, trunk and roof. Driver and passenger seats aren't in the greatest condition. Engine and transmission runs and drives strong. I have recently replaced the car with: -Brand New tires, less than 500 miles on them -New Water Pump and Timing belt about 2 months ago -New Fuel Pump -New Ignition Coils -New Starter -New Battery -New crankshaft position Sensor -Oil Change less than 500 miles ago -Spark Plugs -Replaced MAF Known issues with the car are: -Powersteering works but does not hold powersteering fluid -May need a new brake mastercylinder -Check engine light is on diagnosed code to be 13 - RPM signal no. 2 -Dome light does not work -Windshield has a crack -Sunroof is off track but works PM me or text me @ 404-247-3110

Alright, thanx.....ill try and replace that this weekend

Symptoms are, car just cuts off at random and won't restart for a while until it sits for about 30 mins,like something needs to cool down. Other than that, the car runs fine, no power loss, temp gauge doesn't go up. Changed plugs, MAF, fuel pump, fuel filter, igniters. Prior to this happening, I had the water pump and timing belt changed about a week before it started just cutting off. was told the ecu was bad and had to get it rebuilt/reman....there was a whole thread about it titled bad ecu, I'm just going to try and replace the ecu because nothing seems to be resolving the problem. I've replaced several parts and am tired of throwing random parts on the car that doesn't seem to fix it. Really need my car running how do you remove the ecu from a 1990 ls 400

how do you remove the ECU? im just gonna get it rebuilt. Any one have a right up or something for the removal, can't seem to find one

Well i didnt see any sparks or loose wires....So far I've replaced -Igniters -Spark Plugs -Fuel Pump -Fuel filter -MAF We though the issue was resolved, after I drove it home, about a 30 mile drive. I had no problems. The next I was driving to work and the car just cut off....again....and wouldnt start once again. I had to get it towed back to my dad's place. As soon as we unloaded the car, I went to start it and it started right up! Anyone have an suggestions. My father and uncle seems to think that somethings getting hot that causing it to cut off. I called this mechanic and explained to him what was going on. He said the crankshaft sensor is out, and thats whats causing it to cut off, and not start til the car cools down. I thought that if the crankshaft sensor was bad, it would start at all. My problem is the car starts, and then shuts off randomly, and wont restart.

Anyone have a diagram for the location of the camshaft position sensor

I'll be doing a tune up this weekend, and figured I'd check the connection to the camshaft sensor, anyone mind telling me exactly where the sensor is located, maybe post some pics or a diagrams

I actually had replaced the Ing ition coil on the driverside a year ago....but ill check the sparkplugs

I got some igniters from the junk yard, and am no longer getting the 14 code, the car has not shut off yet, however, while I was riding on the highway it did feel as if the engine was about to shut down.....it did it about 3 times, but never shut off. A code 13 does still remain though, I have changed the MAF sensor....any ideas what could be causing the engine to try and shut off?

well my father said all 8 cylinders are firing, and i dont believe its the ignition coi, because i just changed that, and he symptoms aare completely different from the last time it went out. (the last time it went outt, the car wouldnt go over 20 mph, the exhaust was burning red, and it was smoking. The car runs fine, it just cuts off. hw do you chek to make sure ignitor 1 is bad?

Thanx for he advice, i checked the engine code, and it sent backa code 14, which im seeing mans ignition no.1 signal...would that mean to check igniter 1, and ignition coil 1? from the diagram i found, i believe thats the ignition coil i had changed a year agoI don't believe it's if ignition coil, and my pops said its on om all 8, how do you test the ignitor