County Boy

In my experience, I lost the most oil when I had the reservoir filled.  The dipstick right up as it should be.  This makes sense as there is more oil in the upper chamber, lubricating the valve rockers.  Also, at high revs, there is more oil up top and more likely to leak out under the cover.  I was worried about not doing the repair because I didn't want to drive too many miles knowing that the valves were not getting lubed as they should.  Again, the front bank is a simple correction.  Good luck.

Sounds like an issue I had 2 years ago.  It is difficult to tell where the oil is coming from and certainly I was fooled.  I thought it was coming from lower down but in fact I solved the problem by replacing the front rocker cover gasket.  A very easy job.  Unfortunately, the rear gasket started leaking last year and that is not so easy to replace.  It seems these gaskets have a shelf life and at 330,000kms, mine are reaching that life.  The front gasket went when I was in Mexico and one of their many remarkable mechanics performed a temp solution with silicone.  That cost about $20.  The silicone got me home but the smell of gas returned stronger each day.  Since I had seen the mechanic do the job, and I had bought a new gasket in the states when I was passing thru,  it was an easy fix for me to change the gasket myself.

In conclusion.  Before getting into a difficult and costly job dealing with the manifold, try replacing the cover gasket.

Lockie

I'm going in to replace the knock sensors on my 01 RX300.  What is the general wisdom on the gaskets?  Do they need to be glued down?

Thanks, Lockei

PS. Pauljlc. I see that you have an RX300 as well as an RX350. I have the 300 we have been discussing as well as a 330. I find that the 300, even after 220k, feels much tighter to drive. The 330 seems less responsive. Cornering and handling seem remote. How do you find the 350?

Thanks, Paul. I hadn't considered the VVT factor. I suppose the possibility of damage is slight though still there. I think that I am going to go ahead and replace the timing belt. I had some difficulty trying to replace the alternator belt ( frozen adjuster bolt and broken clamp bolt). By the time I had dealt with all that, the parts place was closed and I had to put it back together with the old belt in place. This will, however, give me time to order what I need to replace the timing belt. I hope to recoup the cost when I sell.

Our mileages all vary but with 144k mi on my DIL's RX, there is NO sign of leaky cam seals. Most of the miles have been local miles, (not the best kind of miles) and average care (5k + mi oil changes) and the trans also is original and functions just fine. I changed the trans fluid at 97k mi and it looked like engine oil. I only say this, not to discourage you from doing all those things, but only to say not all peoples experience will be the same by any stretch. My SIL put 360k mi. on a Dodge van without doing HARDLY ANYTHING to it. Almost everything was original when she traded it. . With 180k mi. on her current one, it's the same story. Experiences vary, yours probably will too. To get to the rear valve cover, yes the intake would have to come off. Be prepared that the crankshaft bolt is lock-tighted on and it calls for 150 lbs torque. You will need to lock the C/S pulley and use a breaker bar and the bolt is conventional thread (the reason for the torque and L/T).

Also remember when lining up the timing marks on the pulleys with the belt that the engine slants back, so the timing marks won't be facing directly up. Was the Camry a 4 cyl. or 6? If a 6, it should be about the same, if a 4, probably QUITE a bit different. If you change the W/P, the factory manual says to remove the timing gears. I didn't have to, I just removed the long bolts and tilted it under that lip and it was no problem. If you replace the T/S, it will be a moot point because I assume you have to remove the gears to do the seals.

If you're interested in the parts sources, let me know.

I am planning to trade my 2001 RX300 in a year. It has 220,000 kilometers (about 136,000 miles) and has been a great car for me. Because the aircon compressor belt is screaming, I decided to change it. Now I'm thinking I should do the timing belt while I'm at it. It has never been done. Does anyone know if the engine is non-invasive (or whatever they call it when the valves don't hit the cylinder when the timing belt snaps)? I think I recall the parts guy at the dealership suggesting that. If it is the case that there is no danger damaging the valves if the belt goes, then I may just pass on replacing it. What do you think?