Jump to content

mossyoak

Regular Member
  • Posts

    32
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by mossyoak

  1. Less than proper octane places a higher load on all parts of the rotating assembly because the ecu retards ignition timing. Piston tdc algorithm will not coincide precisely with ignition timing as per design spec of the ecu. Therefore, as piston is still rising to tdc, ignition is occuring. This increases a downward pressure as the piston is rising to tdc. ie, downward force on the crank, main bearings, and rod bearings. Silent death over time.

    Ferd

  2. you folks dont really believe that the gorgeous lady in the pic is the wrench who is doing all that mech work. I love the joke and love her looks, but no way is that doll in the pic doing this work. I have changed timing belts and have never heard of a pretty lady being able to do this job. :chairshot:

    Ferd

  3. FWIW,

    once you drive a lexus, you will not be happy with a Ford product. I owned a 1987 lincoln town car that I bought new. It was a wonderful car as far as reliability, but my LS400 is the Bomb...no comparison.

    Ferd

  4. Here's way to decide. Go look at new or newer cars and price them. After this shock,,you will be happy with your delima. ie..You have a Lexus LS4 with 85k miles ( Ipresume runs well ) that needs paint. For approximatley $3k you will drive a top car and believe you me, when its painted by a high quality shop, all your friends will be jealous.

    Ferd

  5. IF your discarded oil is not cloudy white, you are not leaking coolant into the crankcase. It is pretty evident if that is the case. Also, leaking coolant into the crankcase may raise the oil level on the dipstick. Simply, look at the oil on your dipstick. If it looks normal, ie no milky white color, your are probably not leaking coolant ( also check coolant level from radiator cap). If coolant leaking into exhaust manifold, you would see thick white smoke out your tailpipe.

    If you see no leak on garage floor, you should count yourself lucky and spend your money on other things.

    Hope this helps

    Ferd

  6. Shouldn't be that hard. If bolt is really frozen, the easiest way I have found is heat from a propane torch, along with liquid wrench at different time so no fire occurs. The heat goes outside the bolt on the chassis to expand the chassis threads holding the bolt. Once you use heat you will be hooked and never have another frozen bolt problem ( well almost never ). Take a propane torch and heat surrounding area being careful not to heat lines etc. Does not take much to loosen, 10-30 seconds. Use a 6 point socket with an extender of some kind like a pipe 12 inches or so that fits over the socket wrench handel. A 3/8 should work if you dont have a 1/2 type. But really, these bolts should not be that hard to take off no matter what.

    Ferd.

  7. Wow, am I confused.

    I thought, when the dealer does a trans drain at the 15k/30k/45k etc. service, they drain the entire fluid and replace the strainer/filter in the trans. Now I am thinking that, every 15k service, they drain 2 quarts from the pan and refill hopefully with a new strainer/filter. If this is the case, I will do it myself at 15k intervales.

    Ferd

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership