paulsuerth

the shifter unlocking mechanism is electric, bad power and the brake pedal switch contact won't disengage the shift lock. mine got real noisy so i put a steel ball in the manual override to disable it. this is definitely an electrical problem. what did it turn out to be?

seattle_usa,

could you tell me where near the top you see the bolts? i can get to the bottom ones (1997) from underneathe (floorjack and stands) without removing the cats. i just can't seem to locate by sight or feel the contact point near the top? btw, i'm in knoxville TN in case anybody knows of someone to help...

SOLVED!

it was the wheel speed sensor! be ware tho, the warning lights did not go off immediately, but only after driving for a bit, and the trac defaulted to "off". press the button and all is well!

thanx for everyong that helped out!

i have some general info, not specific to the ls tho. don't know how familiar or comfortable you are with elec motors, but more often than not, if you can dissassemble them and clean them they'll work again, at worst you might need to replace the brushes...

umm... one more thing, i forgot to mention that i have a 97...

mr. ferrari-

you're awesome! thanx for the p/n. there's a fella on here that contacted me saying they can get close to wholesale, and my local dealer is 141. thank you again!

the little magnet and wire that attach to the forward side of the rear hub inboard of the rotor... anybody know the part nr so i can give it to a source for pricing?

to UCF3

whats the number?

and yes, i removed it and it didn't look healthy with filings and a cracked collar, also no codes plus warning light plus good fuses suggests to me that its a purely electrical short, not a more intelligent sensor malf (these things look like the bicycle speedometere eh?).

to skperformance

yep, going the OEM route. not feeling adventurous as i haven't even owned it a month yet.

thank you for the information. the bearing is solid. the magnet in the sensor was only showing a milimeter or two out of the sensor housing when i removed it, lots of shavings but the magnet itself was physically intact. the lights are there (trac blink, abs solid) after 3 second startup test, regardless of engine status or transmission gear. do you have any leads on the after market units? is the price enough to justify consideration or is it build quality?

called the dealer in knoxville, TN and they're 141.30 and they have them in stock... wonder if i could trade my OBD2 reader for it?

:chairshot:

anybody know where to get a wheel speed sensor or how to rebuild one? could i gut a speedometer from a bicycle shop ? (i'm only half joking) or how much it costs?

dammit! i bought an OBD2 reader, and NO ERROR codes, NO MIL and NO I/M codes.its got to be the wheel speed sensor, or some connection to it (the immediate plugs/harnesses are intact, when i unplug it the brake pad sensor light comes on). and traction control is really inactive.

:whistles:

i'll try to be brief. had annoying squeak/grunt from right rear after the tires were balanced (not to mention a lost center cap at 48$). greased everything, no luck.

took off strut (no i didn't cut or break anything). brother-in-law fully compressed and released the strut a few times *upside-down* while i was calling around to see if, hope-of-hopes, a replacement existed in knoxville, TN. no luck. put it back on and squeak hasn't come back (4 days and counting). now the trad-off light blinks and the ABS light is solid. i've removed and cleaned the wheel speed sensor. disconnected the battery and reconnected. removed the EFI, and EFI1 fuses and EFI breaker from the block in the engine bay. removed the obd2 and trac fuses from the block under the dash.... and still the annoying lights.... thots anyone?

In the ongoing battle between man-made objects going hundreds or thousands of miles per hour and the ground going zero miles per hour, the ground has yet to lose.

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