truplaya22688

Any info would be helpful. 1996 ES300, 1MZ-FE motor. Today we got down to changing the bank 2 knock sensor. Changed knock sensor and put everything back on and now the car won't run at all. It starts briefly then just dies out by itself in less than a minute. Also the gas pedal seems to make the car die quicker. Actually the second I touch the pedal the rpms shoot down and the car dies. Checked for loose vacuum hoses and leaks and didn't find any. It seems as if the car is getting too much air, if that makes sense... Can anyone please advise? Also I followed these directions: http://www.findonefindall.com/toyota-sienn...nock_sensor.htm and some others from alldata.com.

Problem Fixed guys. The wire that comes from the engine and connects to the coil pack was broken apart inside, the connectors weren't making good contact. It kills me that it was something this small and obvious but all in all it was a learning experience. Thanks to all those who gave me insight.

What's loosing me is how you can only have a wire going to cylinder 1... so, are you missing a coil pack? I can't find a picture of the 1MZFE with the coil packs, but here's a BMW engine with the same basic principle... this is a straight six cylinder, but you can see there is a coil pack that sits atop each cylinder... each cylinder has one. The same is true with the ES300 engine... there should be one coil pack per cylinder.... three in the back, three in the front (or three on each side of the engine, since the engine is mounted transversely). You've got to have a coil pack on that number one cylinder.

Is there any way you can take a picture of the engine with the beauty cover removed? That would help clarify things.

Not missing, I only have 3 coil packs and from those goes a wire to the back 3 cylinders, here are some pics for reference to what I am talking about. Also if you have a 95 or 96 ES, pop the hood and see for yourself, its hard to explain even with the pictures. And for the life of me I still can't figure out the problem. I am now torn between the fuel injectors or a blown cylinder...

Ok, so I am more confused then ever, I looked at a repair manual for my car and it also said there are 6 coil packs! I only see 3 in the front the 3 back cylinders only have a wire going to them in my car. Plus my firing order is different from a normal 1MZ-FE. Does anyone have any idea whats going on?

What's loosing me is how you can only have a wire going to cylinder 1... so, are you missing a coil pack? I can't find a picture of the 1MZFE with the coil packs, but here's a BMW engine with the same basic principle... this is a straight six cylinder, but you can see there is a coil pack that sits atop each cylinder... each cylinder has one. The same is true with the ES300 engine... there should be one coil pack per cylinder.... three in the back, three in the front (or three on each side of the engine, since the engine is mounted transversely). You've got to have a coil pack on that number one cylinder.

Is there any way you can take a picture of the engine with the beauty cover removed? That would help clarify things.

Not missing, I only have 3 coil packs and from those goes a wire to the back 3 cylinders, here are some pics for reference to what I am talking about. Also if you have a 95 or 96 ES, pop the hood and see for yourself, its hard to explain even with the pictures. And for the life of me I still can't figure out the problem. I am now torn between the fuel injectors or a blown cylinder...

I'm tellin' ya, from the symptoms, and from the code you're getting, it's probably a bad coil pack... just sounds like you aren't finding the one that's bad.

But I have a question now, how could it be that I'm not finding the right one because the CEL says Cylinder 1 and thats 1 of the 3 that I changed. The only thing that goes to cylinder 1 is a wire from a coil pack that sits on the 2nd cylinder. I honestly don't know what to do anymore, even the mechanic is unsure, I am going to try another MAF and I'll go ahead and change the last coil pack but I highly doubt that those will fix it. I am beginning to give up on this...

Ok guys changed the MAF with one from a junk yard, a new was running $225 in Autozone in NY. Still not solving the problem, do you think that I picked up a bad MAF from the junk yard? Car now seems to be a little worse... Anyone???

Just got it checked out today by my mechanic, did the compression test and all; said that the M.A.F. sensor has gone bad. What do you guys think? Also he said a new one can run about $400.00

Your symptoms are classic of a coil pack going bad. Are you sure you changed out the correct one? Changing "2 out of the 3" doesn't mean much if you aren't changing out the correct one (and it means you are changing out good ones if you aren't getting the right one). If it's a cylinder 1 misfire, it's the rear-left coil pack (see diagram). Is that the one you changed?

BTW, here's what it means when your CEL is 'flashing'.

"What does it mean if the (check engine) light is blinking?"

If the light is blinking, a severe engine problem such as a catalyst-damaging misfire is occurring and should be addressed as soon as possible. You can still drive safely, but should minimize your time on the road. Try not to drive the vehicle at high speed or with excess weight (such as towing or carrying heavy equipment).

Well I changed the outer 2, and I tried to swap and switch and know that the middle one is not bad (the old one). If I pull the wire off the pack is still sparking, that means that it should be good right? And there is no rear left coil pack, there is the wire which I did change. I also thought I might have got a bad plug when I bought new ones so I bought one more and put that in and still no luck. Also I heard that its Very rare for all 3 coil packs to go out at the same time. Also as a side note, my firing order is different, when I set it up as the diagram it was barely starting, also I did get my firing order checked out and it is correct, just not like the diagram. Any more advice? Thanks for all those who did help.

fuel injectors!

If you have a gauge or some of injector testing device. Great.

If not, try this. Turn the engine on, press a long screw driving against the injector. Listen for the clicking noise by putting your ear next to the screw driver. No clicking noise = problem!

Isolate rather it's the injector wiring or the injector itself. Most of the time, it's the injector that's bad.

How would I go about changing the injector? I wanted to clean them out at least but I cant seem to get them out, I know that they are located under the Lexus cover right above the first 3 spark plug cylinders and got the wire connector off them but cant get the injector itself out, any advice? Thanks

20 y.o. with a 1996 ES300 Coach. Got the car when I was 16 with 95K, it now has 175K. Absolutely love the car. Going into my third year of college now, and am looking forward to a newer Lexus soon!

Ok, I am going to try and sum it up the best I can, but I can't figure this problem out. 1996 ES300 with 175K now. Car ran perfect until last week. The car ran fine one day and the next day it throws a check engine light and starts hesitating bad, followed by the CEL flashing. The next day I went to Autozone and had them run the code, it turned out to be a cylinder 1 misfire. Based on that I got new spark plugs and wires, along with a fuel system cleaner. Got all that put in and it was still hesitating and throwing the flashing CEL. Then I noticed that my air intake tube was cracked and splitting, so I got that changed, and still the same problem. Next I got 2 out of the 3 coil packs and changed those at $75.00 a piece. Still nothing. I have probably spent around 2-3 hundred with no progress what-so-ever. I will say that the hesitation decreased but its still there. Now people are telling me it could be a vacuum leak or injectors, I really want to figure this out on my own as it doesn't seem like a huge problem but I am not too sure at this point. Any advice would be helpful, I am going to check it out again tomorrow morning but if nothing works I will have to end up taking it to a shop on Monday, I am in college and need a car, but I'm also on a budget which is why I haven't taken it to a shop already. If anyone needs me to clarify something please do not hesitate to ask. Thanks.

Searched through all the threads and couldn't find a fix for my problem. I have a 95 LS400 with the Nak system and the 6CD in the glove box. Worked perfectly until yesterday when" ERR 14" came up on the display. Also when i try to Eject the cartridge, nothing happens, until i shut the car completely off then it pops out. It wont eject when the car is started, it only ejects when the car is off and you push the button. Nothing is jammed inside, and i pulled out both Radio fuses in both the driver kick panel and the engine compartments and still no luck. Anyone please advise, Thanks.

Thats what i orignally thought since I live in NY, the only thing that really stops me from buying an ES330 right away is the all too common transmission problems. I like the GS because of the room and power, but I dont like the gas mileage. I am going to try and test drive both and see what happens. Keep coming with more feedback guys! Thanks

I have been doing a lot of research and am getting a new car soon, Lexus of course. I am trying to choose between a 05' ES330 or a 03" GS430. They both have pros and cons, just wanted more input from helpful people. Thanks

Replaced head unit with another, works perfect now.

1996 ES300 doing 135 MPH on 2 lane highway, next to a MK III Supra.

I would go back and check all the fuses. My 02 has three fuses inside alone that contribute to the radio.

Since a component other than the audio is possibly involved, I would check all fuses.

steviej

Question: Is the CD changer's power supplied through the stereo deck? Or does power go directly to the Changer? Thanks. P.S. I rechecked all fuses and relays and found nothing. I am going to try a new head unit and hope for the best.

ok, first off if this is an old topic I am sorry as i tried searching and found similar problems however they werent the problem that i have, also i tried to use thier fixes and nothing happend.

I was driving my 96 ES300 and when i pulled into my driveway my radio just cut out. Shut off the car and started it back up and the entire deck had no power to it. No radio, CD or tape. Also the back lights were not lighting either. Went to check the CD changer in the trunk and no power to that either, wont eject magazine. So I am currently not getting any power to the radio deck, the cd and obviously the antenna. Checked the 2 fuses for the radio and they were fine, the one under the steering and the one in the engine bay. I have no idea what to do. Any advise would help. I also just put it up for sale and now this! I am thinking its the wires, but I really dont know and I dont want to start taking things apart for no reason. Thank You.

if you put those wheels on a 96 es300 could you put 245/40/18 runflats on it instead? Thats the only size i can seem to find them in on Tirerack.

Curious, Would it make any difference if the amp was upgraded to a higher wattage Pioneer and then change the front and rear speakers to better Pioneers and keep the stock head unit? Would that setup get better sound quality or not?

Recently the bulb for my gear indicator went out on my 96 ES300 along with the ECT bulb. So I cant see the ECT button or the P,R,N,D,2,L at night. I figured out how to change the gear bulb but i cant get to the ECT bulb. Does anyone know how? Also how can i get the gear lever off? I took off the two screws on the front of it but it just rotates. Can anyone help. Thank You. Also how would you remove the radio and the heater controls on a96 ES300. I looked for posts but can only find ones on a 97. The few that i did find on a 96 werent right. Thanks

camlex, barring something odd - as an o2 sensor ages two things happen. 1 they respond slower 2 they read progressively less voltage (Lean) so the management runs progressively richer. Even when they still output about the right voltage signal, they can still be slow to read etc.

I still think it's more like a limp mode. On my 3vz-fe when I was installing my smt-6 I had to run across town before I was finished. Long story short, there were ignition signal problems I wasn't able to sort out, but the engine would crank & run in the bad limp mode so I went anyway.

I got sub 50 miles to a 1/2 tank. (Maybe 40-45 it's been a few years)

Make sure you have all your gears avalible too you. 1-4. Both a limp mode, and warm-up programming will lock-out overdrive on the transmission. Make sure it shifts into O/D & check the coolant sensors too. (Still check those o2 sensors).

Check the plugs like they said. It could be contributing, bad spark isn't going to be the **sole** cause for that bad of mileage IMO. The ECU is still squirting the same fuel (less) regardless if it's burning or not.

Just a question, if it was in limp mode would it loose any power? Because the car has more power then ever now after the seafoam treatment. Also I checked today and all 4 gears are working and so is the O/D. Also checked all the plugs and wires and they are fine, cleaned them out anyway with the seafoam spray. Where would the coolant sensors be? I'll check those next, if those arent it then i have no choice but to take it to a mechanic. :(

Sounds like limp mode to me too. I have had an O2 sensor give out on me in less than 20k mi. I have even had brand new ones that were bad from the factory. Just because there new doesnt mean anything. I would also check to see if the brakes are binding. If it's none of those start from the bottom up. Air filter, plugs, fuel filter, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel leak... you get the idea.

Neil

Update - just realized that there are 3 O2 sensors, :whistles: I only changed two in the engine bay and i was told today that there is one behind the catylic converter, which i did not know about and probably is the original one with 135K. So as of now I am going to clean out my plugs and wires and change that O2 sensor and hope for the best. Thanks for everyones help.

You mentioned some of the maintenance items you replaced.....did that include a new fuel filter? What are your tire pressures set at?

Nope didnt do the fuel filter but would not changing it make that much of a difference? Also my tires are 205-60-R15 and are all at set at 32 PSI, which is right according to the sidewall.

Sounds more like you're in a limp mode. You sure the check engine light isn't burned out?

1) Reset the ECU

2) 100,000m on an oxygen sensor is normal. Check/replace them both.

I digress. I would doubt it's an injector problem, or you'd be running black smoke off whatever cylinder was dumping fuel.

One thing I don't understand is O2 sensor. I read here so many people had to replaced O2 Sensors.

I have 186200 with original O2 sensors and getting 27-28 on Hwy.

Why O2 sensors go bad? Extra fuel additive? or Bad ,Cheap Gas?

After you did Seaform treatment, you getting 11MPG?

Well I use regular gas from Mobil and the funny thing is that the MPG was even worse before the seafoam treatment. Before the treatment I got only 60 miles on half a tank, so on a full tank it would have been 120 miles! Something is definitly wrong, I just dont know what it is.