PilotSmith

Just a general FYI that it's perfectly normal for a serpentine timing belt to have small cracks running across it. Those small cracks will form soon after installation so never let an unscrupulous mechanic show you those cracks and say it's time to replace the belt. Use the normal recommended factory replacement schedule.

Now cracks in the serpentine belt that are running length-wise are a definite sign of impending failure though.

I asked a local dealer about the T-belt given that I am close to the recommended 90K replacement mark. The dealer said officially he had to say it should be replaced at 90k. Then he went on to say he has not seen a T-belt go out on a LS430 even when not replaced with much higher mileage. I'm in SoCal so the weather is mild here; not too hot or too cold. That probably helps. I'm inclined to go beyond the 90K until some other work in needed to do it all at once. Then again, the engine is an interference engine so if your T-belt goes out it will thrash your engine with the cylinders hitting the valves. I'll probably do it some time before 120K.

Check engine light was on 2001 LS430 pulled codes found P0135 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1

1. Bank 1 is on the drivers side, Bank 2 is on the passenger side

2. Sensor 1 is the upper sensor or upstream sensor in the manifold, Sensor 2 is the downstream sensor

3. Disconnect the sensor on the Driver Side, on mine the heatshield was too close to the sensor to be able to get anything in there to push the tab let alone a hand in there do disconnect it, I used a prybar and tweeked the shield a little so I could get a Right Angled Pick in there to push the tab down to release it, the tab is on the part of the connector that is attached via clip to a little metal bracket, and the tab is facing out toward the wheel. Passenger side is easier.

4. Remove the sensor, use an Oxygen Sensor Socket, there's not enough room to for a wrench, if you don't have one borrow one or buy it for $7-10

5. Save some money, if you have a hot enough soldering iron and you can solder you can cut and splice the old connector onto a new generic sensor. I usually stagger the wires to keep the thickness of the group of wires to a minimum. I DO NOT RECOMMEND using the generic connector to splice the wires, spend the extra effort and do it right. I also take the wires out of the connector (write down which goes in which hole they're number 1-4. I do this so I can work the wires/terminals also staggered through the outer shielding insulation it's a little stretchy but not enough, work it slowly and it will go. I also slice the thicker rubber cover off and put it back on where it was with that rubber electrical tape that sticks to itself but isn't tape. Or you can do it however you like.

Advance Auto has them for about $75 if you need it now or you can find them cheaper online, the one I bought was a Bosch 15733 universal type, I believe they are the same both up stream and down stream. The Bosch is a newer style sensor that doesn't look like the original someone said that is a planar style or something like that that switches faster and works better than the older style thimble type. I replaced both of mine so they would age at the same speed, 100k on the clock I figured the other side would be soon to go as well. Plus I read somewhere about lazy sensors not setting codes but reducing your mileage.

6. Clear the codes, and take a ride

if you get the VSC Off light on your dash immediately and the display says Check VSC ( Vehicle Stability Control I believe) it has to do with your code scanner when you read your codes, you'll need to get something to jumper between 2 pins on the obdc connector under the dash the TS and CG pins (see picture courtesy of FYOUNES on another site) dlc.bmp, ignition off, jumper the 2 pins, turn ignition on, don't start, wait until the vsc test comes up in the display, turn ignition off, pull jumper, start car, go for a ride.

7. Enjoy your ride you just saved a bunch of money 2 sensors for the price of one Denso or whatever that has the right connector. Short of time, get one with the right connector, you should be able to take care of it in about 30 minutes without all the soldering.

Good luck

Why does the code reader glitch the VSC? Jumping the TS and CG pins solves the problem but I was wondering if the VSC glitch is caused from a problem in my ultra cheap Harbor Freight code reader? Debating if I should return it and buy another brand. I like the Harbor Freight unit because it only cost $40 and in addition to listing the codes it also displays the text corresponding to what the code means.