RedLexusSC400

Hey guys, I shopped around the buy sell section of the forum and didn't find anything recent. So I thought I would ask you guys for a good site. I need to replace the drivers side door panel trim, all the electronics are fine, mainly the two large peices on the lower half. Can you guys get me a site with those? I can't find any, and I know I looked a couple years ago and they were out there for a lot better than $1900 parts and labor from the dealership. Thanks for any help!

Okay, so I'm coming up on 2 years with this problem. I've had a handful of mechanics look at it. And I've posted on here with no luck. But I am now one step closer.

2 years ago my heater just started to not come on every once in a while. When it did it worked great. It always blows air. Now what's weird is even when it wasn't blowing any hot air at all, and I had mechanics look at it, everything in the engine bay worked great, all the way back to the heater core. Even had Lexus certified mechanics looking at it. But it was so off and on. Over time it started to work less and less until it never came on in the last few months. But I had the car in a friends shop to replace the door hinge (which was a another nightmare), and he had to disconnect some crappy wire job. He assumed it was my sound system or after market alarm or remote start. He reconnected it and since that day my heater has worked great!... When it's 80 degrees to HOT. One click below 80 it doesn't blow warm air at all.

Now I'm not sure it had anything to do with the wiring, but I havn't done anything else. And if it was the wires, how could it be so off and on, and work less and less. And why does it not work under 80?

I don't know if I am going to get anything further with this, I am extremely happy it works (My girlfriend even more), and I am worried I'll go back out there one of these days and it won't. Curious though if it gives you guys any more ideas what it could be.

Thanks for any info. And sorry about the novel.

RedLexusSC400, Yes, this is correct...."I can get the 255/35 or 255/45, but if I go down to the 35 I'll lose some of that comfort correct?" The tire size (255/40/18) you are looking for are only available in Ultra-High Performance or Summer tires. Geared more for a racing style, the one thing you do not wish to pursue.

Ha ha, so no more help? I found some Avon Tech M550 A/S tires that rate pretty high in all aspects. The only complaints I have read about them is they get pretty loud after about 10k. But with the flowmasters I have on there, I don't think it will matter. So I think I'll just go with those. They are also only 134 a tire on tirerack.com. But thanks for all the help.

Thanks for the info GrnSC400, this tire is more the direction I'm going. Seems like you get what you pay for, fairly inexpensive tires, loss in performance. Seems to be okay with rain and comfort, might want to find something that could do a little better. Another problem I'm looking at is the size. Like I said I'm running 245/40/18's currently, and they are stretched. Now even with the rim protection on this, don't you think I would want to step it up to a 255/40/18? And for some reason they jump that size. I hope I don't sound too , but I don't know a lot about tires. I can get the 255/35 or 255/45. I'm only replacing the rear tires right now, and the rear on the SC's already sits higher than the front. But if I go down to the 35 I'll lose some of that comfort correct? Ha ha, I really hope I don't sound too ridiculous, but you guys are a lot of help! Thanks again.

Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3.

nuff said.

steviej

Well it sounds like a great tire. But looking at some of the reviews it seems to be a little more on the sporty performance side than I'm looking for. I'm also looking at over $235 a tire for one of these. I'm looking for more comfort, but still something that I won't be all over the road with regular driving conditions. I'm done with the racing thing, I'm not taking it up into the mountains. But it does rain a lot in Oregon

I wasn't sure exactly where to post this question. This seemed it might be the best place. So anyways, I have a fiberglass bodykit I've had on my SC400 for about a year now. Now I kind of got screwed on having it painted and installed, almost went to court over it, ended up dropping about 1500 off the price. Point being, there were a lot of short cuts taken, and I see more and more of them later on. One thing I've been trying to get rid of is the noise of my wide, sticky performance tires throwing rocks right into the painted kit. It's pretty much eaten away at the paint, so I've sprayed a black truck bed liner back there just so it looks better. But it is still extremely noisy, you hear every pebble in the road. I'm wondering if any of you have any suggestions to get rid of this, or at least reduce it. I've thought of putting a peice of plastic back there like cars have from the factory, but no one will do it. I had a custom shop turn me away. I'd appriciate any suggestions, thanks.

Hey guys, I need to replace the rear tires of my 92 SC400. The rims I have on there are 18's, 9.5" wide. Tires are Firestones ZRi 245/40R/18, so they are stretched to fit the rim. I want to go with something that will give me a smoother ride, and will cover my rim, just incase a curb decides to bump into me. :whistles: I would also like something that would last me a while. After doing some reading on here I was interested in the Exalto's, but they won't fit my wheels. So any recommendations would be much appriciated, also, what tire size I need to go with. Thanks a lot!

Oh yeah, I'm trying to watch the money too, but I'm sure it's not going to be easy with the size.

Hey guys. I'm going on 145K in my 92 SC400. I've had a clunking for a while now. Thought maybe it was the control arm bushings but those are still good. A friend of mine told me it's the struts. I feel a lot in the road and have more body lean then I would like. I'm wondering how I could check it out to see if it's the strut for sure before I go buy something new. And if it is, what to go with. Like new springs and strut? Just the strut? Coilover kit? I don't even really know the difference in those. I don't want to spend too much, but I'd like to get that smooth quiet ride back. My car also jerks harder when I hit bumps, it will pull the wheel back and forth if that helps... Thanks for any input!

Did this stuff about a year ago and havn't done a thing since. I have a lot that I'd like to do though. At least to clean the car up.

I know my brake pads are below 1/32" and my brake light comes on almost everytime I brake, and half the time I accelerate. They just started squealing so it's that time. First of all, I found OEM brake pads and front and rear shims for my SC400 for $190. That includes shipping. Should I go with OEM and is this a good price? I am also wondering if I even need to go with the shims. I've put about 50k on my car without touching the brakes. But I've never had any squealing or anything until recently. I did have to turn my rotors when I bought the car at 100k, do you recommend turning them again while they're off? Or should I not since they have been already. I know I'm asking a lot, so thanks in advance for any help!

Bryan

I know my brake pads are below 1/32" and my brake light comes on almost everytime I brake, and half the time I accelerate. They just started squealing so it's that time. First of all, I found OEM brake pads and front and rear shims for my SC400 for $190. That includes shipping. Should I go with OEM and is this a good price? I am also wondering if I even need to go with the shims. I've put about 50k on my car without touching the brakes. But I've never had any squealing or anything until recently. I did have to turn my rotors when I bought the car at 100k, do you recommend turning them again while they're off? Or should I not since they have been already. I know I'm asking a lot, so thanks in advance for any help!

Bryan

So we checked the heater control valve along with the entire heater/cooling system under the hood and everything seems to be working fine. While we saw that it worked fine my heater was not working. But then later that day it decided to come on, and like I said before, it works perfect once it decides to kick on. The mechanic I have looking at it thinks it might be an internel/electrical issue maybe? Because I turn it on and blows air, but randomly blows hot. We have also looked under the dash and the control to switch from blowing air on your feet or up top all seems to be working fine, along with the recirculation/vent control.

Any other ideas would be much appriciated!!!! :cries:

Bryan

No problem.

Original equipment manufacture, which is toyota/lexus.

Always fits ,works and lasts over aftermarket.

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So order straight from Lexus or can I save some money ordering from a web site anyone would possibly know of? I can do a little research, I just thought I'd ask since I'm on here...

Thanks a lot for you help.

Bry

OEM all the way.

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Ha ha, I'm sorry... but I'm not too sure what that is.

So I am just looking for some little tune-ups since I have driven my car from 95k to 135k and havn't done too much... I want to replace the spark plugs and wires and was just wondering what ones to go with? I was told stock because some of the aftermarket performance ones apparently don't work as well with it? Thanks for any info!

Bry

I don't think it's your thermostat.

If the heat comes on all of the sudden, then I think it is your heater control valve.

This controls the flow of hot water to the heater core inside the dash.

The valve is easily accessed under the hood on the firewall.

I replaced mine last year because it was leaking.

It's not cheap.  It was almost $400 for the entire assembly (valve and electronic control).

My valve was leaking, but my electronic control still worked.

They will sell the control separately, but if you need the valve then you must buy both in an assembly.

It sounds almost like your control is going out.

Let me know if you need help finding it under your hood.  I can take a picture.

Tom

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A picture would be great if I know what to look for... I mean is there any way to tell that it's bad without just changing it out?

I'm an SC400 owner:

Just in case you have the same wind noise problem I have...

If I close the moonroof from a tilted position, its pretty noisy.

When I open (slide back slightly) and reclose (slide close)

it becomes much quieter.

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Yes. I read about this problem a long time ago and someone said the same thing. And it really does cut more than half the sound down. And then closing the other part makes it almost silent. And that's going 70ish on the freeway.

Yeah i have had same problem, your thermostat is going bad bro, get this done before winter cuz you're going to freezzzzz your !Removed!, big time!!! that thing is located almost on top of engine where air box piping meets intake mainfold, don't have any pictures, sold my SC400 3 years ago with same problem at 135,000 miles :whistles:

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Well do you have any idea what I'm looking at costwise? :(

It doesn't sound so bad...

I have a 93 sc300 with the gold package, do the emblems just pull off, or are there nuts on the inside? Any advice in removing them?

Does anybody know a place that I can send them to get re-plated?

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Yes! I had that ugly gold package on my Red SC too. But I got my car repainted when I put a body kit on it and replaced my emblems with the silber. The entire package cost me about $45 on eBay. There are always a couple packages on there and they are new. They just stick on will cover the holes from your others. I don't know how much they are elsewhere.

So going into the colder seasons I thought I would try to figure out what is going on with my heater. Earlier this year my heater stopped working so well. When I start it up it doesn't kick on at all sometimes for 5 minutes, sometimes it takes about 15... It will just blow cool air. And I know it's not that it's just warming up. Because you feel a huge difference when it does kick on. And it still works great when it's on. It gets very hot. So any ideas why it would take that time for it to actually kick on? Loose wire or something?

Thank you for your help...

Bryan

I bought my SC400 just under 100k a little more than a year ago and I averaged about 19.5mpg in the city, and 24 on the highway. Now, at 130k, I got 16.6 in the city... Running the same premium gas, and even lightened up on my driving style. The car still runs great and all I have done was remove the third cat, put an x-pipe and a couple flo masters. Also recently put a Do-Luck kit and some wheels on it but the mileage was already bad before that. I treat her good, oil changes and everything on time. The only problem I have with it is a SLIGHT rear differential leak.

So anyone have any idea why I could be averaging almost 3 miles less per gallon?!

And also any recomendations on what I can do to help?!

Thanks

Bry

Okay, I'm gonna sound stupid here... but I have a question about what would fit. I found wheels that are 18x8.5 offset 20 for the front and 18x9.5 offset 25 for the back, bolt pattern 5x114.3. I know the bolt pattern fits my 92 SC400, but I read that they have a stock offset of +50mm. And I'm not quite sure about what exactly the offset is. Would I have a problem with rubbing with the front tires at 245-40-18 and the back tires at 275-35-18? I'd really appriciate any info, and I want to order these tires today! Ha ha, I can never wait...

Thanks!

Bry

I have a 92 SC400, and it looks like the 10 disk player I have is aftermarket. So it's FM Modulated. Now the radio plays fine, sounds perfect. But when I'm playing CD's through the player I hear a muffled scratching noise on certain frequencies. I've had people get in and describe it as a blown speaker or tweater, but those are good. Like I said, the radio plays fine. So I've asked many people and tried to go through all the different problems it could be. Seems I'm left with the FM modulator going out? So if this sounds right... then if I swapped out the Cassette/Radio in the front with another like it but with the CD button. Would I be able to wire the aftermarket CD changer directly into it getting rid of the FM modulated problem?

Sorry if I sound a bit uneducated on the subject... I am

I would really appriciate some help, thanks!

So since I have had my SC my speedometer has been off. When I'm going 30 it reads 40. When I'm going 65 it reads about 78... I have the stock wheels on there and almost the same size tires so that's not it. Everything else runs great. Any idea's? I have to drive and hour north or south for someone to be able to calibrate it but it's hard to find the time.

I own a '92 SC400.  This last weekend, I had the left and right front lower control arm bushings replaced for $320 (4 hours @ $80 per hour) at an independent mechanic who frequently works on Lexus.  Each front lower control arm has a front and rear bushing.

The cost of the four bushings from the Lexus dealer was about $150.

Although the front LCA bushings are not listed for 92-96 model years, the bushings for 97-00 will work just fine.  The part numbers are:

Front LCA front bushing - 48654-24040 

Front LCA rear bushing - 48655-24050

The car now rides 1000% better.

Front LCA bushings are also available from Daizen (TM Engineering) and Vlamos.

A lot of SC owners like the Daizen bushings, which give a stiffer ride than stock.  I wanted the cushy stock ride and so I didn't get them.  The Vlamos are said to ride like stock, but they're a lot more expensive. 

The Lexus dealer wanted $1,600 for parts and labor to replace the two front lower control arms.  Simply replacing the bushings was not an option with the dealer.

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Thanks, but I've seen different brands of bushings and polyurathane kits and they all range in price a lot... so does it make a difference what I go with or are they all the same? Just price...