boznian2

Need to know what the codes are...Knock and missfires will both cause loss of overdrive....

Sorry I didn't respond to this earlier - been hectic.

Anyway, we had both knock sensors replaced and the wiring harness for the knock sensor circuit. So far everything is working...

As the title says, 3 dash lights and when they are on it won't shift into O/D. We have been through the whole deal with replacing struts and then "VSC" "VSC Off" lights, which was due to incompetent repairs. Wheel speed sensor, hub, tone ring and brake job later that went away almost a year ago. This seems to be something different.

When it first happened the shop told us it had a stored code for engine mis-fire (or knock or ping?) We have had a tune-up and transmission service (and now it runs like a top), but still the same problem intermittently. BTW, it started with just the dash lights and no other symptoms - the not shifting to O/D came on a little later. The vehicle is pushing 200k miles...

Any ideas?

We had the same problem and had to replace the "tone ring", which I believe is part of the wheel hub and is essentially the 'sender' unit for the ABS/Trac.

Resolved! The Tone Ring was clearly damaged and this had to have happened while they were replacing the struts.

Well for the initial problem, the mechanic could very easily caused the problem. If he did not disconnect the sensor before removing the struts, the wire to the senor could have been damaged. Now for the second part of the problem it adds a lot of ambiguity to the whole issue. As far as a BAD TONE RING, I would have a big issue with that. Tone rings generally do not go bad, more often they will be damaged, or there could be a issue with the bearing itself. Have they used a dial micrometer to check the freeplay and runout on the bearing? Also the seating surfaces must be checked for rust and other debris. If they had to clean the sensor once already, there is a issue there. Now if the bearing is bad, that would exonerate the original tech from any guilt on damaging the sensor, and point more towards the fact they did not diagnos the problem correctly, but did not cause the problem. Hard to tell exactly without seeing the car. Pardon the spelling, but it's late, and had a rough night at work.

I may have left out an important item, and that is that when they replaced the speed sensor they had to drill it out. They said it was rusted in place. They also said that some of the leftover debris from that action is what was on the sensor and had to be cleaned off the second time I had it back in. After reading your post I can't help but wonder if they damaged the tone ring while replacing the sensor...

This is an ongoing saga that started out simply enough - just needing new struts. From my previous post at the end of August:

"We had a shop install new rear struts, tops and springs plus new front struts, bearing plates and sway bar links. When they were done the 3 warning lights ("vsc", "vsc off" and "ABS") are on all the time. The traction control switch under the dash has no effect. The shop claims that they tested for codes twice and there are none. What did they do? They are talking about a short or bad cable or bad computer that is going to above and beyond the original estimate for the strut replacement - I don't think so "

...and

"Just got back from another visit to the same shop and they say now that they were able to find some codes in the system: 34, left rear wheel speed sensor, open circuit ..and.. 43, deceleration sensor, out of calibration. They say it needs a new left rear wheel speed sensor and then recalibrate the yaw sensor for $375, and that "there is no way their technician caused this" - "it has probably been going bad for a long time and when they moved it (the cable, or the sensor itself?) to remove the wheel it shorted out". Another $91 to diagnose the issue. "

I didn't believe them and I didn't want them working on the car anymore (especially since they fully intend to charge for everything) so a few weeks ago I took it to the local Toyota dealer. They verified the code for a bad wheel speed sensor and replaced it, which fixed the problem for another $300. They said the same thing that I have heard from this forum and other searches on the subject, that it is very likely the tech screwed up the sensor while changing the struts.

So we drive it for about 2 weeks and then hit an average bump on the highway and all 3 lights come on again, same as before except now you hit a bump and they come on, hit another and they go off. ONLY at highway speeds. Take it back to the Toyota dealer, same code. The said the sensor had debris on it, cleaned it off. On the way home, it does it again. Take it back a 3rd time - now they say we have a bad "ABS tone ring" which can only be purchased as part of the wheel bearing and hub assy. Now they want another $650 Remember that the lights now only 'cycle' on or off at highway speeds, when hitting a bump. If they are on when you shut off the car, they will be off when you start it again until you reach 65-70 mph and hit a bump.

I feel like I am getting hosed for technician incompetence. Any advice, thoughts?

Original topic: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...mp;#entry386050

With the information you have provided, my response to what the shop told you would be "Bullsh!t". Is this a super-high mileage car? 250,000 miles plus? The components the shop says are defective are, as far as I know, not prone to failure.

First they couldn't find codes, now they can find several. I'd say ... run, run away from that shop as fast as you can.

Just curious, why were you having new springs installed? Were they broken? Springs don't usually wear out and shock absorbers can last an incredibly long time.

Mileage is 177k, so high but not super high. The springs were replaced for 2 reasons - 1) we have done some towing with the car over some rough roads and 2) mostly just because we got a deal (from Napa, not the repair shop) on a replacement "kit" for the rear that included a Monroe Sensatrac strut, strut top and spring pre-assembled for not much more than the cost of just a strut and strut top, and it saved us some labor since they didn't have to disassemble everything and re-compress the spring, etc.

The problem is that if this part really is bad, regardless of how it happened, I am guessing it will be much MUCH more expensive to have it fixed at Lexus. I am going to call them today and get an estimate...

Just got back from another visit to the same shop and they say now that they were able to find some codes in the system: 34, left rear wheel speed sensor, open circuit ..and.. 43, deceleration sensor, out of calibration. They say it needs a new left rear wheel speed sensor and then recalibrate the yaw sensor for $375, and that "there is no way their technician caused this" - "it has probably been going bad for a long time and when they moved it (the cable, or the sensor itself?) to remove the wheel it shorted out". Another $91 to diagnose the issue.

We had a shop install new rear struts, tops and springs plus new front struts, bearing plates and sway bar links. When they were done the 3 warning lights in the title are on all the time. The traction control switch under the dash has no effect. The shop claims that they tested for codes twice and there are none. What did they do? They are talking about a short or bad cable or bad computer that is going to above and beyond the original estimate for the strut replacement - I don't think so

Any thoughts?

2000 ES300, no adaptive ride control

Our 2000 ES300 with 176k miles and original factory chrome rims leak air badly (2 of 4). The dealer says that they are pitted and there is nothing that can be done. Anybody know if they can be gently sandblasted on the inside or hand-sanded or anything else?

Just got a quote from Sears Automotive (not my first choice of shops though) for all 4 struts (Monroe SensaTrac) and strut mounts for $950.91 with the alignment. Sounds like a pretty good deal, if they can be trusted.

Wondering if we really need new struts all around. Dealer has recommended new front and rear struts and "strut tops" to correct various noises, although some of those noises turned out to be from loose lug nuts on one wheel. The car is surely showing its age (2000, with 165,000 miles) as far as ride quality and handling, but $2,400 for struts, tops and alignment?? :o

Anybody do aftermarket struts?

Our 2000 did the same thing and it was the starter. Wierd that it only happened when the engine was cold, but that was what fixed it!

We are going to tow one of those small u-haul trailers (they call it the Sport trailer) for about 5k miles on vacation. The hitch is a bolt-on, and the trailer only weighs around 550 pounds so that should be no problem. My question is about the wiring. Everyone I ask gives me a different answer on how to wire it up. The on-line places that sell the hitch and wiring kits insist that I should use a "powered" version that runs wiring directly to the battery. A tech at the Lexus dealer says to just tap into the wiring at the rear-end ("that's how a lot of people do it"), although the local Lexus dealer doesn't actually install hitch or wiring. The shop they referred me to says they always wire to the battery. Another one in a different town says it's not necessary.

The trailer has 2 small running lights, but does use LED taillights so the current draw should be very small.

Has anyone here wired up a trailer harness? Any thoughts on how best to do it? Hints, tips? I searched the forum archives and found some topics on hitch installation but nothing on wiring.

Kind of under the gun here, need to get this ready to go soon. (We weren't going to take this vehicle originally, but now we have to - long story )

Thanks in advance,

Mark