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miamilexus

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Posts posted by miamilexus

  1. ..."Figuring I would use a 15 amp (instead of the 10) while I sequenced"...

    Well not a good idea doing that as the wire is matched to the fuse of the circuit. This could lead to a fire. Only 5 extra AMPs probably protected you though.

    Sounds like a hard short so I agree, just start unplugging the lock motors until the fuse stays put.

    Any chance the cigarette lighter is on this circuit? I have seen coins and metallic gum wrappers get down those and create a hard short.

    Should be easier to find the problem with a hard short as it won't be intermittent.

    At least you didn't call me an "idiot"... Of course, I have already self-named myself and feel really stupid. :blushing: At least it is a "hard short" might be easier to find and the car didn't burst into flames (a good thing I think).

    Too many other projects for the time being. Car just going sit for a while. I hope it is easier, but with all the functions attached to the dome light fuse it may not be that easy.

  2. Mine started doing the exact same thing three years ago at 150,000. Needed to replace rack and pinion assembly (which included all the ball joints) and power steering valve. Local Lexus repair shop did whole job including alignment parts and labor $1200. It got to be too unsafe to drive. Now at 190,000 and steering is very good.

  3. Now I have gone and done it! Blew the whole mess. :cries: Figuring I would use a 15 amp (instead of the 10) while I sequenced around the car trying to find the "offending" function. I went to start the car to move it to the garage... it would not start. Blew the starter fuse. Got that sorted out, but now as soon as I plug in a fuse in the dome light spot, it blows immediately.

    Going to start taking things off-line, starting with the door locks to see if I can locate the problem :censored:

    Other than all the dome light functions (which are a lot) the car works great. BTW, no problems in the trunk harness or the interior dome lights.

  4. No sequence that I can recall before the fuse pops. I'll try the door lock suggestion. Just had both panels off to replace the little plastic clip that holds exterior door handle the the locks. Both sides broke within a week. AND no, not the cause of the problem, fuse popping long before the clips broke. My friendly Toyota/Lexus dealer told me I could not buy the little clips, had to buy the whole door handle assembly. He "generously" offered me both handles at cost-$150 each.

    One of the local Lexus repair shops said, "while it is true you can not buy the LS 400 clips separately, you can buy SC 300/400 clips separately and the clips are identical."

    Off to start locking doors, then opening/closing the trunk (the only two things we did regularly that might "cause" the overload... never did turn on the dome lights, except to check if the fuse was blown. Thanks for the suggestions. Getting closer to parting the car out. Shame because we have gotten to most of the common aliments on 1993 LS 400 (rebuilt/re-soldered dash lights, two alternators, power steering pump, whole steering system, re-flashed the main computer board twice, redid the whole front of the engine, new radiator, just to name the main fixes).

    Starting to think my 2007 IS wheel and tires are worth more than the car, but not giving up yet.

  5. Something drawing too much current. Try removing dome light bulbs and replace fuse and see if it blows. Could be a partially blown bulb where filament burnt but reconnected (welded itself) together with a shorter filament length. As a result less resistance and drawing too much current.

    I'll try removing bulbs, but... when I replace the fuse all the functions (dome light, trunk release, steering adjustment, door locks, Auto AC settings) work fine for a day or two, then the fuse blows again and everything is out again. Maddening. :( I was hoping there was a common short that has popped up on other 1993s over the years. So far my search for a cause has eluded me.

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