hlpyfix

I've never had great success with turning rotors. Better to just install new rotors and pads. If you DIY, it's cheap, and you'll notice a difference. I did it with my little MX-5 and my 94 LS, and they stop smooth like a bunny. BTW, the original owners of the car here in Vegas paid a bundle at the thieving dealer for brake redo's that lasted 20,000, then 30,000 miles. Ground the rotors each time, charged 600 bucks each time, and waited for the suckers to return.

Just my HO. Best of luck.

Thanks for the reply. I'll take it to the shop this week.

Hi, just a little tip? even with new parts if the wheels are over tightend the steering wheel will shimmy if you get new tires and the wheel are put on to tight they should be torqueted to 76foot pounds hope that helps

In June I had a former Lexus Tech who owns an independent shop locally change my timing belt, water pump, idlers, tensioner, spark plugs, fuel filter, coolant resovoir cap, tranny and diff. service on my '98LS. After the service I noticed that the engine temp ran hotter than before (halfway up on the temp gauge). I waited because I thought it might be air in the system and the coolant just needed to circulate. Never got too hot.

In July my starter went out. Had that fixed and the car starts great every time. Weather is hotter now, and the car wants to overheat, almost to the red mark but cools when I am moving fast. I'd be surprised if the new water pump or thermostat were bad (and hopefully the tech did install the new part, he did give me the old back). I suspected that the coolant wasn't mixed right, so today I started to drain the coolant. I followed the procedure in the Lexus Shop Manual, removed the resovoir cap and fill cap, and drained the 3 drain plugs under the car which all drained nicely, nearly 2 gallons, BUT, the coolant remained in the resovoir to the top. So I pulled the lower hose from the resovoir, and was surprised that it didn't flow from there. I ran the engine with the heater on high temp to open the heater valve and hopefully pull the coolant out of the resovoir - still didn't budge.

Second issue...when the engine was hot, I got no heat from the vents when set to high/hot, just room temp. AC works fine. I did not have this problem before my repairs.

When I moved the heating contols to cold and back, I could see that the heater control valve had moved.

Not sure where to go from here. I did remove the radiator and cleaned it but it wasn't restricted much at all. I can take the car back to the mechanic but would much prefer to solve this myself. Any ideas?

hi, hope you check the clutch fan should be hard to stop with a rag or a glove on your hand when it's hot???

My 93 LS with 180k is puffing out smoke when its cold and idling. there is also a gasous smell coming out of the exhaust. when i rev it a little bit the smoke will stop for about 10 seconds and then return. After driving for a block or two I'm good to go. Is that normal? any ideas? Thx.

hi, two questions !! has the car had regular service if not could be leaking oil in to the cylinder buy the rings or from the valve seals when it sits over night if its just a little would not worry but if it gets to smoke a lot would have it checked

OK. That helps. I will stick to my plan to change this around 170K. Thanks.

hi, i would also rec. using toyota parts the are more money but worth it?

:o

I did some more tests...I disconnected the pax side coil wire and the engine idled inconsistently, just as it does when that coil is hooked up, (except on 4 cylinders.) I reconnected that coil.

I disconnected the driver's side coil and the engine idled quite evenly (though clearly on 4 cylinders).

Going further, I reconnected the coil and unplugged one spark plug wire at a time from the driver's distributor. When I disconnected the plug nearest the driver (is that #1?), the engine idled evenly, though clearly not on 8 cylinders...no jumping. Reconnecting that one, and back to jumpy idle.

This tells me (correct me if you have other ideas) that I have a bad (in order of suspicion):

1) distributor cap

2) plug wire

3) spark plug

The plugs are Bosch Platinum. The wires and dist are Autozone...(Duralast?) and all were replaced 20,000 miles ago.

If I had the energy right now to disconnect and reconnect the intake stuff, I'd go switch the plug wire with the another one as long to see if the problem follows the wire, but I don't so I'm not going to try that today.

I'd really like to get the shield off that's at the bottom half of the distributor cap, but I can only locate 2 or 3 of the necessary bolts. Is there a picture to help locate the bolts that aren't really visible?

Joe hi, joe first off they don't like bosch plugs if you can always use NGK that is the right plugs and it still could be a wire ? It could be arking in side the cylinder on the way to the plug or oil from the vavle cover leaking down in side check those and let me now hlpyfix

the dist. cap is not lucky the problem wire or pulg

:o

I did some more tests...I disconnected the pax side coil wire and the engine idled inconsistently, just as it does when that coil is hooked up, (except on 4 cylinders.) I reconnected that coil.

I disconnected the driver's side coil and the engine idled quite evenly (though clearly on 4 cylinders).

Going further, I reconnected the coil and unplugged one spark plug wire at a time from the driver's distributor. When I disconnected the plug nearest the driver (is that #1?), the engine idled evenly, though clearly not on 8 cylinders...no jumping. Reconnecting that one, and back to jumpy idle.

This tells me (correct me if you have other ideas) that I have a bad (in order of suspicion):

1) distributor cap

2) plug wire

3) spark plug

The plugs are Bosch Platinum. The wires and dist are Autozone...(Duralast?) and all were replaced 20,000 miles ago.

If I had the energy right now to disconnect and reconnect the intake stuff, I'd go switch the plug wire with the another one as long to see if the problem follows the wire, but I don't so I'm not going to try that today.

I'd really like to get the shield off that's at the bottom half of the distributor cap, but I can only locate 2 or 3 of the necessary bolts. Is there a picture to help locate the bolts that aren't really visible?

Joe hi, joe first off they don't like bosch plugs if you can always use NGK that is the right plugs and it still could be a wire ? It could be arking in side the cylinder on the way to the plug or oil from the vavle cover leaking down in side check those and let me now hlpyfix