Electrodynamic

The hole I drilled is actually in wheel well. I have pictures of where the wire is ran. I'll see if I can upload them and show you. Right now I'm in Shanghai China on business and I'm really tired so I'm going to go to bed.

Man that's cool (the blue color with ivory interior)! I searched for a blue SC before buying mine but couldn't find any.

Install looks good. Can you give a list of what you used (brand/size/etc) What is the time frame on trim? What are you looking to use?

The front's are Scan Speak Revelator 7" mids and Morel MDT-12 1" neo tweets. The HU is an Eclipse 7500 mkII. I run Tara Labs Spectrum 1A interconnects back to the RF 3sixty.2. From there I ran AudioMagic solid siver interconnects to the four amplifiers. The amplifiers are two Sundown Audio 50.4's on the fronts and two Sundown Audio 1000D's on the subs. The subs are Stereo Integrity Mag v4 subwoofers. And that's about it.

I just made the false floor last week and I'm going to start on flush mounting the amps pretty soon. I'll update this thread with any/all progress.

And now for the false floor section.

I initially cut out a piece of wood that would fit over the two supports on either side of the subwoofers that was all one piece. However, you have to hinge it in order for it to fit inside the vehicle. So I took the solid piece and cut it on one end to make a hinge.

I had my sign guy print me up a Lexus logo and then I used that logo to trace out the Lexus emblem on the piece of wood. After some jig saw work, I had a Lexus logo in the middle of the piece of wood. :)

I bought carpet from Parts Express that was/is pretty close to my original carpet color and cut it out using the factory floor piece as a template. I then put the pice of wood on top of the carpet for a test fit.

The blue tape is to outline the edges of the wood so when I put contact adhesive down I don't go overboard. I then coated the wood and the carpet with contact adhesive and put the two pieces together.

After that, I stapled the carpet to the back side of the board and then followed it up by stretching grille cloth around the Lexus logo opening.

I've done some more work on the Lexus recently. :)

I'll start with the remote progress.

I first took the volume control out of the car and started dissecting it and the 3sixty's remote. You can see from these pics how I just tore apart the volume control section of the volume control, as I need the climate part to control the HVAC in my car.

The volume control came apart pretty easy, but I was really hesitant to snip the tiny little circuit board traces and/or connections out of old habbit. However, the volume control wasn't going to be used ever again in this car and you can buy used assembly's on ebay for cheap.

The metal "spider" carrier had to have the middle hole hogged out to accept the 3sixty's knob, but other than that the unit fit right up to it. Thankfully RF supplied extra nuts and washers to attach the remote to another face so I used that to secure the remote to the board.

And then I noticed that the shaft of the 3sixty remote BARELY fit inside the white plastic housing. What that meant was I couldn't drill a hole in the factory black extension to go over the 3sixty's knob. So what I had to do was sand down the factory plastic shaft and make a tiny blade so it would fit inside the 3sixty's slot.

And then I noticed that the shaft of the 3sixty remote BARELY fit inside the white plastic housing. What that meant was I couldn't drill a hole in the factory black extension to go over the 3sixty's knob. So what I had to do was sand down the factory plastic shaft and make a tiny blade so it would fit inside the 3sixty's slot.

I also had to cut slots in the outter housing to accept the 3sixty's board and also cut a hole in the back of the unit to accept the new remote's board.

But now it all works! The old volume control now controls the subwoofer level of my system!!!

I guess so. Mine's a 1993 and the low side service port on mine couldn't be further from the passenger side firewall.

where is the ecu for this function?

What the post above you means is that the flash memory for the memory is actually inside the main ECU. You can't find the memory and swap in a new memory card to get it to work. Like he said, once it gets so old, it simply won't work anymore. Mine doesn't work at all anymore. Maybe that's what 200,000 miles and 16 years does to the flash memory. ;)

While my father and I were servicing the air conditioning on my 1993 SC 400 we couldn't find the low side port. Someone on here or Club Lexus said it was 6" away from the passenger side firewall which is completely false. I looked and looked on here and CL and couldn't find any pictures or good descriptions about where it was, so I took some pictures for you guys who may be looking for it.

First off, the high side is extremely easy to see. Right when you open up the hood, it's sticking out of the plastic tray immediately to the right of the hood latch. I didn't take any pictures of that because it's staring at you when you open the hood.

The low side service port, however, is actually on the compressor itself. It is covered by a black boot. Here are two pictures that show where the port is located (we have the gauge line hooked up to it so you can see where it is):

Can you check on a front lower lip for a 93 SC400? The black plastic one at the bottom of the front bumper. Thanks!

If you still have the front lip can you send me a PM or an email (nick@stereointegrity.com) with how much you want for it shipped to zip code 28031? Thanks.

PS: I tried PM'ing you but you've got it disabled.

Last but not least, how it looks right now. Fully functional but without the trim panels.

And here are the SS's installed and the door panels put back on after being modified by Brandon:

And before anyone says anything negative: YES there will be custom grilles made to cover up the mids at a later date.

Test fitting the sub enclosure, sanding, and the amp rack (notice the use of beer ;)):

And here are the gold tipped, insulated, and color-coded female fittings used for the speaker wire to go onto the SS's terminals:

Here are the RCA's I used for the install. The main run is a stereo pair of Tara Labs Prism 3A's to the RF 3Sixty.2. After the 3Sixty.2 it goes to AudioMagic solid silver RCA's and Y-splitters. :D

And here are the s*x pictures of the SS being mated to the pod:

And here is the SS being installed onto the door:

First up is a picture of my deadened door in progress:

Notice the proliferous use of Second Skin deadener along with the gargantuan opening being filled with Second Skin Luxury Liner before it was to be sealed up. :)

Here is the door panel sealed up (AKA: the huge hole taken care of):

And now onto the door pods. :) The door pods from the factory are ported. We went sealed. The factory door pods are made out of stiff HEAVY plastic, so there was no need to strengthen the back of the door pods. The front of the door pods needed to have 7" adapters made and fiberglassed onto them in order to mate the Scan Speak Revelators into position. Brandon headed up this section of the install and he did a fantastic job. Here are some pics of the progress:

__________________

Ok...here is a BIG !Removed! update:

There was a LOT more work that went on other than what is pictured. I have to "give a shout out" (yes, I know that's !Removed!) to Jacob, Brandon, and Justin at Sundown Audio. Without them, none of this would have been accomplished. I employed Jacob's OCD skills in sound deadening to do the doors "half-assed" as he calls it. From the following pics, you'll see that his half-!Removed! is most people's over-kill. We had to keep the metal tape away from him or he would have gone ape shit and would probably still be deadening my doors.

Brandon did an excellent job on the door pods! They are smooth, fit perfectly, and are completely sealed. Thumbs up man!

Justin focused on the trunk portion and did a damn fine job! We tried to fit 3 Mag's but it simply wasn't working out with the diameter we ended up working with. Losing a Mag only lost 1.5 dB (theoretical), so it's no big deal.

The install isn't finished yet, but everything is neat and tidy. Wires are all tucked away, tied down, zip tied, soldered, shrink-wrapped, etc. It was quite the day! Now, on to the piczorz!!

I didn't know the later model SC's came with auto-dimming exterior mirrors. My 93 doesn't have them, so I suppose it's safe to say that not all SC's have them.

Can you email me more pictures to nick@stereointegrity.com please? Does the car have any rust? How big is the crack in the windshield? Is the body in decent condition other than the front end where an animal hit it?

I just thought about this - instead of a lead-based baseball (which would be HEAVY...and I was joking too ;)), how about just carry around a golf ball? They fly like crazy and they'll sure as hell leave a dent. :)

*Disclaimer* I hold no responsibility for the actions of other individuals. I am also not saying that I will take my own advice and carry a golf ball or two around with me. ;)

*edit*

FYI: The amplifier under the CD changer is for your main speakers only (fronts and rears). The amplifier for the subwoofer hangs from the rear decklid and it's ready for a 1 Ohm sub (that's what the sub has stamped on it - I haven't DMM'd it yet). So if you plan on re-using that amplifier you'll need to be on the lookout for a dual 2 Ohm subwoofer. Or you could go with a higher impedance driver (dual 4 Ohm, etc) and cut your power in half.

You'd have to check the mounting depth, but this subwoofer is the only one I would consider. You'll have to check the mounting depth, but I think you need to make an adapter plate/ring for an aftermarket subwoofer anyway. If you're after clarity, this is right up your alley. With an XBL^2 motor, you'll have cleaner bass for longer/higher volume levels. The neat thing about XBL^2 drivers is they are very distortion-free and offer the same type of sound throughout most of the operating range. Instead of a driver sounding different at higher levels, XBL^2 subs do not.

Damn dude. The guy saw you and took off?! I can only imagine how pissed you are. I know I'd be livid too.

It also sucks big donkey nuts that the cameras don't have good enough resolution to catch the license plate. Kinda makes you want to carry around a lead baseball to chuck at guys like that doesn't it?

And here is today's acquisition:

Yep, that's right - a 50.4 per pair of Morel MDT12's and a 50.4 per pair of ScanSpeak Revelators. :D Not to mention a pair of 1000D's per pair of new Mag v4's.

Oh yeah, I should add that the reason why I was so pissed over the weekend is that I cannot integrate my 3sixty.2 in with the factory radio. Well, I can, technically. But there is a noise that is being emitted from the factory HU that sounds like scratchy morse code and I can't get rid of it. I've troubleshot down to it being the HU, which SUCKS because I was going to keep the factory HU for a stealth appearance. So since I tracked it down to the factory HU, I bought a double-din Kenwood unit and am going to re-wire the entire system so I can have full control over every speaker. I'll still be using the 3sixty.2 but I'll be using dual bridged Sundown Audio 50.4's on my front stage - one amp for the tweeters and one amp for the mids to allow me complete adjustability with every channel. Anyway, it should be fun. :)

Haha, those are shielding rings (commonly used in speakers that go next to TV's to not distort the image). The size of the magnet means d!ck when it comes to power handling anyway. :) Besides the motors method for cooling the voice coil, power handling in car audio has a LOT to do with the size and type of the enclosure. As you can see from the picture, these are rated at ~125 watts RMS. Anyway, these are being mounted in my doors.

ScanSpeak Revelators are the big boys in home Hi-Fi known for not only incredible lifelike detail and imaging, but also great midbass and even sub-bass. There's a company that uses the 5.25" version and they have it playing down to 35 Hz in a room. :)