BadBrad

Have now used 87 octane in the 2010 for 30,000 miles. No pinging and no problem. Owner's manual recommends higher octane for best performance (if you really feel the need to 5 more horsepower). Owner's manual also says can use 87 octane if that is all that is available.

Blue die from jeans can be removed with leather cleaners.

The premium fuel "requirement," (the actual words are "required for best performance" and not "required or your warranty is void") is nothing but a marketing ploy to ensure the high priced Lexus makes something like 3.59 more horsepower than the lower priced Toyota pedestrian trash. If you are concerned that you car is slower in the quarter-mile for running 87 octane then lose 30 lbs.

Run 87 all day, all year, and all decade. Your wallet will thank you.

The premium fuel "requirement," (the actual words are "required for best performance" and not "required or your warranty is void") is nothing but a marketing ploy to ensure the high priced Lexus makes something like 3.59 more horsepower than the lower priced Toyota pedestrian trash. If you are concerned that you car is slower in the quarter-mile for running 87 octane then lose 30 lbs.

Run 87 all day, all year, and all decade. Your wallet will thank you.

Has anyone experienced problems using regular gas in a 2010 RX 350? I accidentally used filled the car up with regular (long day, don't ask) and am petrified that I have caused long-term damage. I know if I take the car in, someone will tell me I need some incredibly expensive replacement.

Have been using 87 octane in my 2010 for more than 2 years. No issues.

I must say that the muffler sound I can hear in the cabin is the nicest sound, compared to all the other cars I have owned. Is it something new for 2012 or is it the same on 2011 and 2010 ?

Agreed - my 2010 sounds very nice. Lexus did a nice job "tuning" the muffler on this generation (I've both previous gens too - this gen is much better). I have one car that has a gnarly (think terrorized neighborhood ) exhaust tone when the loud pedal goes to the floor so I feel qualified to concur with your muffler opinion. :whistles:

Went to dealer for 5000mi/6 mo service. The place was packed and i was there for an hour and 1/2....Unless you have 10,000 miles all they do is reset the maintanence reminder...

I decieded to change my own oil..

Bought Toyota Oil filter tool for $51 from lexus/toyota site. Read u can get one at Walmat for $4. but i'm not using a $4 tool on $45,000 car..

odered oil filter.

Ordered case of oil from Lexus sewellparts site 0W20.

Oil filter which had directions on side. (comes with 2 rubber gaskets u must change as well as plastic oil drain plug for oil (removal from) filter housing)

Searched for pictures of oil change for rx online and saw how oil filter housing works. (it's simple..and brilliant once u understand)

It is truly the easiest car to change oil on..My 2000 Honda crv is 100 times harder..

In hindsight: It shows that this vehicle is so well designed it can withstand very little maintanence.

( i have read of people leasing for 3 years and brought the car in once)

I bought mine and am in for the long haul.

Thanks for great post. Looking to do a oil change soon. Was interested in the type of oil filter you ordered. A friend of mine says the Lexus filter looks very flimsy so he uses a Fram which he says its constructed much better visually. Wondering if the Lexus filter can be cross reference to a Fram cartridge type filter? And if so do you have to number to Lexus so I can cross the number to other filter choices? Also have you looked into a KN filter for yours?

Use the factory filter cartridge; you'll have greater peace of mind. I roam inside the world of home-garage engine builders, car builders, and sportsman drag racers. We know better than to use Fram. Most will use factory oil filters (if available) before going aftermarket.

Any body know the torque that the oil canister is supposed to be torque on ?

Presuming you are talking about the oil filter housing on your 2010+ RX, I go 90 percent effort - hand tighten, using no wrench or other device of mechanical advantage. Take care not to damage the O-ring and lube it before installing the housing back on the engine block. Mine doesn't leak with this level of effort. I found the dealer and factory to overtighten this housing (typical of the gorillas in service departments).

I love the Weathertech. Best cargo mat I've ever purchased. There are some discount sites from which to purchase.

When you do take your Lexus in for the "10,000 mile" service, please be advised that the technician may crank the little "cap" at the bottom of the oil filter housing on very tight so that when you go to change the oil at a subsequent date, when you try to remove the little cap to pre drain the filter cartridge, the entire housing moves. I now have a spare housing and plan to use it in the very near future for an oil change. Once I have the original housing off the car, I am going to place the housing in a vice and loosen the housing cap for future use.

That entire housing movement thing is easily remedied by using an oil filter strap wrench in the tighten direction at the same time you open the housing.

I know when I need a haircut. I read recommendations in owners manual and reach my own conclusion.

I hold stock in oil companies; we stockholders thank you for reaching an erroneous conclusion.

I will try the compound on outside-

thanks,

kappies

Several years back my '06 RX started to fog over the headlamp covers. I read in a tips section of Car Craft Magazine to use Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (available at Kragens and Autozone as well as others) on the covers. Worked like a charm. Just rub on the polish with elbow grease; takes the haze out. Rubbing compound is more agressive than this product; I would only go to an agressive compound after this didn't work.

Never and no. Same answer for the last three Lexus I've own that reccomended premium fuel. The engine is the same as the Toyota Highlander; I believe that car reccomends only regular. Do a search here of this forum and find much written about this subject.

You shoulds be able to turn on the rear wiper then when it makes a swipe and is out from under the rear spoiler turn off the car and the wiper arm should be a position that will allow you to replace the blade insert.

True, but I suspect the brainiacs at Lexus have a better solution.

i have 2011 rx 350 and also felt engine was noisy. Salesman advised me to use regular unlead when i purchased car BUT if you check your manual it clearly states "for optimum performance use a gas with an octane rating of 91 or higher. (regular has a 87 rating) Continued use of regular gas will result in tapping noise and engine damage!!! i switched to Premium and noticed a difference!! Good luck

It's hogwash. 15000 miles on 87 and no issues. 100,000+ on 87 on the last two that recommended 91 and no issues; and I've never heard pinging, preignition or detonation. I push these engines to maximum shiftpoints on a regular basis.

The injectors make noise on cold starts; the noise dissipates as the engine warms. Two weeks back mine sat outside for 3 days at about zero degrees. When I started the engine I thought someone had swapped a diesel under the hood. Five minutes of driving and all was quiet.

The injector noise cannot be mistaken for pinging or detonation, except by neophytes. You won't find a gasoline, internal combustion engine pinging at idle unless it was designed to do so, such as the single cylinder, adjustable compression engine used to test gasoline for octane rating.

Take 1 or 2 pounds PSI out of the tires; probably won't trigger the tire inflation warning.

A size change in tire will potentially toss out your speedo calibration, alter your transmission shift points, etc. etc. Three percent deviation is about as much variation as the computer can handle. As for the firm ride, enjoy the fact that the car handles much better than the previous generations.

My '05 F150 makes the same racket when cold. Most fuel injectors are manufactured by just a few subcontractors. Makes sense that the same racket is basically heard across different brands.

The vehicle will run fine on regular fuel....that's the recommendation on several other Toyota vehicles with the same engine. The electronic's will adjust for lower quality fuel you just lose a little performance. The Lexus is rated at 5HP more than the 4 Runner with the identical engine likely get the 5 HP by running more ignition advance that's possible because of the higher octane. I have run both premium and regular in my Lexus and can't tell the difference except for the cost of the fuel. I only use non Ethanol so don't know if that makes some difference.

Exactly. The premium fuel "requirement," which is refuted elsewhere in the owner's manual, is nothing but a marketing ploy to ensure the high priced Lexus makes more horsepower than the lower priced Toyota pedestrian trash.

Run 87 all day, all year, and all decade. Your wallet will thank you.

Has anyone figured out how to access the rear wiper so the blade can be replaced? The owner's manual appears mute on this subject.

In my 2010 manual on lower half of page 461 are 4 steps to reset.

The directions listed in the owner's manual are totally FUBAR. They were written by an idiot; are completely non sequitur. Use Roy's directions; thanks Roy (if that is your real name) .

I just recently bought a new 2010 RX 350. I love the design, the features and the way it feels. But a little disappointed in the ride on the highway. A little more road noise than I would have expected from a Lexus (my first one).

Anyone experience anything similar....or any suggestions ?....I test drove one with Dunlop and Michelin tires....no difference.

That's largely a trade off for a vehicle that handles considerably (if not much) better than the previous two generations (I've had all three gens) in that the suspension is firmer. You've used three "car talk" terms. You've mentioned "the way it feels," "the ride," and "road noise." You say you like the way it feels but don't like the ride. To me you sound conflicted. Road noise is largely a function of tires unless you are talking about suspension "bang," or rattles, or wind. Some tires are MUCH better than others in noise production. For example, I know that those two brands don't score well on noise against Continental or General tires.

Just installed Grabber HTS on my F150. A very nice tire at a great price (P245 70r17 at $150). I sort of backed into them as the Ford dealer (running a nice special) couldn't put me on Continentals for a couple of months. The Generals are rated better in Consumer Reports anyway (Continental is number 2). Price was only $38 more (grandtotal) than four Continentals. Turns out General is owned by Continental(German company)and might actually be manufactured here in the states.

What I like best from the seat of my pants: very smooth and quiet ride (much better than the OEM Hancooks); much siping which should help on my occasional trip to the snow.

I hear it and am annoyed. When everything gets warm it goes away.

Just traded my '06 RX400h for a '10 RX350 because acceleration was smoother and felt better. While its great to save gas, the 400h has some idiosyncrasies. I did drive the new 450h before making my decision. Sorry to say I felt like I was driving in my old car. Overall, I'm really impressed with the difference and the big jump in technology in the RX 350. Even the NAV and tech changes since my '08 IS are significant. What a pleasure to transfer my contacts from my iPhone. While far from perfect at least Lexus is going in the right direction.

Have had similar experience. Really think the '10 is a much improved vehicle from the prior generation - and we were in a 400h too. I really like the six speed transmission.

But the selling proposition of the hybrid isn't really that its faster, its that it gets much better mileage.

'06 hybrid yielded me 7 mpg better overall than the '10 350 does now. Build quality, handling, NVH much better on the '10. The '10 is far superior in my opinion. I really grew to hate the '06 for its rattles, buzzes, and wallow through a corner.

My tire micrometer indicates we've gone through 2/32nds in 8900 miles (most tires have 11/32nds when new and should be replaced when down to 2/32nds). If my wife, who is not an agressive driver, continues her current driving habits we should be able to squeeze 40 to 45k out of these tires (assuming rotations and correct inflation).