McSwine

I see you have the extremely rare and highly desirable "Red Curry" limited edition.

(sorry...)

You are most welcome.

What in the world did we do before the internet?

Go to your parts store and rent a pitman arm puller (like image 14). This is what I used on my tie-rod end, and I used the tuning fork to separate the ball joint..didn't care if it got tore up since it was going to be replaced anyway. Also, loosen the two bottom bolts on the ball joint before you undo the tie rod end.

I agree with the dude that thinks it's electronic related. I did some checking on this a while back and it seems a few folks with '98-2000 models got rebuilt ECM's or computers (or whatever it's called) and this fixed it.

1998 LS400 110k mi.

Starts and runs fine when cold.

Once warm, idles too low, 300-400 RPM, and will die unless either I give it some gas or turn the AC on. No CEL.

Can someone give me some ideas. When I search for my symptoms, I'm just seeing solutions for 1st gen LS400 with the IACV problem. I'm not sure if this one has one or where it is.

Thanks for any input!

Wish I knew...my 2000 does the same thing.

I have a 95 LS 400 and the driver side wiper slaps hard on its downstroke. Does anybody know the adjustment so I can stop the slapping sound. Thanks

I have the same problem as well.

Before you spend that kind of money for a PS pump, better check the alternator for the source of the noise. I put the second PS pump on my '97 before discovering that was not the problem... was the alternator. Just my $.02.

Same here on my 2000.

Congrats!!! :D :D :D

Fellas,

I'm fairly new to the Club also. I just picked up my 04' LS430 from Mesa, AZ and paid $21,310. Car is CA specs and had 64K. Took it to the dealer in Co Springs and the tech said not only had it not missed a service appt since mile 000001, it had been serviced at 60K...I was pleased to say the least. With my trade in, I financed $15K and haven't looked back. I'm probably going to put some Goodyear Assurance TripleTreds on it this week.

One question for anyone else w/experience. Can I put 05' LS430 stock rims on my 04 (that is...if I can find some)? The chrome rims are nice but I really like the look of the newer ones. Thanks/Steve

Congrats on your car.

You might want to reconsider the TripleTreds, however. While great in the rain, they can be somewhat loud on some roads. I posted on one of the forums after I got mine, and some dude remarked he thought the TripleTreds were too "coarse" for the LS. After owning them for a year, I would probably agree with that assessment.

I worked for a Shell distributor for several years, but I'm not sure about the nitrogen angle. However, from talking to my friends still in the business, with gasoline around $2/gallon, you won't find much if any ethanol blends in gas stations now because the gasoline is cheaper (than the ethanol).

Using the search I found plenty of good advice on removing the electric headrest on an early LS, but I can't find anything on the gen 2. Any of you guys know how the get this thing off my 2000?

This has never happened in my '98, so Lexus must have corrected the problem. One solution I have heard is to keep the A/C selected on manually, since this will usually prevent idle revs from dropping to the point where the engine cuts off. I'd bet each time this happened in your car, the air conditioning compressor wasn't running.

My 2000 does this as well. The A/C suggestion works, and I've found it idles a little higher if the "recirculate" button is on.

I have a 96 ls400 and have a question on some popping noises coming from my front-end. Can anyone tell me why I might be having a popping noise from the front suspension when going over speed bumps at low speeds (udner 10MPH) or potholes? Major or minor repair? Any info would be of great thanks.

From what I can determine, the strut bars (that go toward the front of the car) is a common culprit, although it did not fix my problem. Someone here says they fixed their popping-over-bumps problem by replacing the upper strut mounts (what you see when you open the hood). Good luck.

The "Break Wear" warning light came on the dash of my newly purchased 2003 LS 430 (second LS).... so I changed the breaks (WOW, how easy was that.... Nice simple design!) and the light stayed on. How do you get the "Break Wear" light to go off?

There is a sensor on one or both of the wheels that has to be replaced to turn the dash light out. I've read some people have reused them, you might want to do a search to find out how.

Anyone have any idea?

Also, don't I need a spring compressor in order to replace the upper shock mounts?

Are the strut mounts the part you see when you open the hood? I've got a 2000 with the same noise and I'm trying to make sure I order the correct part.

thx

The strut MOUNTS! After I had nearly killed myself from exhaustion one weekend from replacing all the front end suspesion parts with new OEM parts, I realized I forgot to order the upper strut mounts, and was too damn lazy to go back in and do them, for the next two years.

If all bushings look ok "don't forget the stabilzer bar bushings", and you've still got the POP POP from blunt bumps on chilly mornings....check the uppper strut mounts.

That is certainly good news. Did you put them in yourself? Are they expensive?

I've got a "thunk" that goes away during warm weather (strut bars didn't fix). Keep us posted.

Sounds like a starter. Sry.

My 2000 would shake a little on cold mornings; it was most noticeable right after startup while sitting in the driveway. I replaced my transmission mount and the problem went away.

Since you are experience the same i will let you know how I make out and vice versa if you can

you got it...thx

Mine makes a pop/clunk over speed bumps. Strangely enough, it is dependent upon the ambient temp...it does not do it unless it's about 50 or below. Changing the strut bars did not fix it and I'm reluctant to throw money at it until I know what it is. <*BLEEP*ed>

Cabin air filter, perhaps?

I don't think I would be so quick to throw in the towel if you have paperwork to show the premium was paid. Are there any lawyers around that can steer this guy in the right direction?

Whoever put the starer below the intake should be kicked in the nuts.

Sorry I can't help with your question, but I agree with this completely.

Resurfacing perfectly good rotors is idiotic, and I'm sorry you lack the intelligence to understand that. But hey, like you say, it's your car, spend away!!!

I did a "pad slap" several thousand miles ago.

When should I expect my brakes to explode?