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landar -- just found out the Michelin Primacy MXV4 comes in both H and V speed rating. which one did you get? the v rated cost more -- $179 per tire. i called Tire Rack and they said the H rated will work with my car (it's the lowest speed rating that is compatible with it), but they won't have them in stock until October. my earlier quote was for the H rated. the v rated are available now. worth the extra? Update: Went with the H-rated. The specs on both tires are identical, with some saying the difference is in the stiffness of the sidewall. And that the V-rated would give a bit harsher ride. I'm not going to be speeding along at 149mph anytime soon, so the H works for me. Plus I think the ride will be a bit quieter, more confortable.

Was told I had a CV joint/boot leak and that it was easier if they put in a new axle. The repair was not cheap. It's six months later and the last time I had the car in they said there's a small amount of grease around the balloons that flank the axle (?). Not sure if I understood him correctly. Is this common? Not too worried as the shop is reliable and they'll fix it, but a little concerned about anything makeshift being done to fix it. Putting on a clamp of some kind was mentioned.

As the OP, I can tell you the best thing to do is (wait for it) NOTHING. After almost four years of intermittent mooing, I no longer hear it. I kind of miss it, actually: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTERBDl85k0

Pretty sure I can find a Discount Tire to match the price. As long as I still get the rebate, that works. Thanks for the tip!

Landar -- Took a look (customers are loving the Michelins Primacy MXV4) and am getting tire racks' $70 off for buying four. Thank you! It's far less than I thought I'd have to pay for new tires. $466 + tx.

No, I have not. I think I went to another discount tire website though. I was going to stay with the same tire I have (Michelin) since they just would not wear out (I'm only replacing them beause the sidewalls are showing hairline cracks) -- they are old, old and still have tons of tread! I I am not sure if Michelin even makes these since they ddi not come up in a Google search. I know Consumer Reports also does tire reviews but that seems like overload to me. I tend to listen more to others' experiences, so tx for the suggestion. I'll have a look at tire rack.

I get lost in all the data that comes up on a search. Apologies if this post covers old ground. My '94 needs new tires, and a mechanic recommended the Falkins (sp?) for "bang for the buck". I'm reading reviews saying they wear fast, so no. What I have are Michelins MXV4+, which are v-rated. Costco doesnt' sell this same tire now. The two that come up as suitable are Micheline Primacy and one other (non Michelin). I went to Discount Tire and their price for the Primacy are considerbly less. $544 for four, v $700 at Costco. In another review, someone said the Bridgetone Serenity Plus were quieter than the Michelin Primacy. I beleive you get what you pay for and am interested in quiet comfortable ride ride and good handling for Southern California weather. Those Primacy tires are "all season". We don't have any seasons in SoCal. It's summer every day here. Any suggestions? Should I stick with the Michelins? Would be interested in hearing what others like for this particular year/model Lexus. .

Ok, got it. Thank you.

I was told that the wire coming from the wiring harness control s ONLY the opening of a trunk lid latch, but that the closing is completely mechanical. Is this true?

II was told awhile back that oil was leaking from possibly the oil pan (or worse, I just do not know). Car was up on a lift and there was a fair amount of oil from there on back to the transpan. I realize the oil from up front could have traveled back on the transpan by wind transferring it. T he seal on that transpan was changed about two or three years ago, so I would not expect it to be leaking. At any rate, going somewhere tomorrow to have it all cleaned off so we can poinpoint the leak. He said he would use hoses, etc. and I just started wondering if it's possible to do any damage with just spraying in that area. Any recommended precautions? I don't think water alone would get rid of oil , so he may be using some kind of degreaser. For what it's worth, there is no oil under the car in the mornings, Would help to have info by mid-morning tomorrow (before my appt.). Thank you...

I bought a spray can of synthetic lube this afternoon and gave the latch a good soaking. I also moved the parts around using a pen...working them back and forth so the lube would get in there. So far,that has had no effect. The latch remains in the 'open' position (though I can manually move it to the 'closed' position). What exactly triggers the latch to close? There is a top part and a bottom part to the latch. In the top part, I can see a c-shaped piece that should drop and hook around a small steel pin in the lower part (when the trunk lid is closed..it should 'catch'). That's what is not happening. The upper part of the lock apparently remains in the open position, even when I push down on the trunk. I read that someone else fixed their trunk latch problem after repairing a broken wire in the trunk wiring harness. So that's the next thing to be looked at. The fuse for the fuel door/trunk os OK. Anything else I should ask the mechanic to check out other than wiring harness? I would like to have a good idea going in of all possible causes. I do not plan to take it to a dealership. I will only do that as last resort.

i agree. will let someone else deal with the wires..

False. I don't have any (and did not know what to buy) so I put a little mineral oil on a napkin and daubed around it as best I could. Probably not the same thing. I have read that WD-40 can gum up locks. What else should I use? I also looked at the wiring harness. That is no where near where I was pulling on the trunk liner, so I prob did not 'cause' this. I can see some of the black tape has unraveled in a couple of places on the harness..Probably the only way I could tell if any wires were damaged is I removed all the tape, right? IIf a lube doesn't work, then will have to take to someone to do that. That's above my skill set. Those wires carry a current, right?

Yes, that's prob the next step. I was mistaken about being able to lock the car with the trunk ajar. Because I hadn't heard the alarm previously (when I Iocked it) I just assumed it did not go off. Wrong! Heard a familiar sound so went racing out...yes, it was the alarm. So need to get this fixed sooner rather than later. The trunk wiring harness can also cause weird dash light action (which is another very annoying problem I am dealing with), so maybe I will find a broken wire that will fix several problems in one go. One can dream.

It looks like the second photo (open). As you say, I can make it move to 'closed' by pressing on it, but the minute I let up, it goes right back to the open position, and of course the trunk won't close with it in that position. I saw a thread over on club lexus where someone had a similar problem and turned out it was a broken wire in the trunk wiring harness. If it's not that, then I need a new trunk latch. As I said, I did try to remove the trunk liner about a week ago, and though I did not use much force (at all), it's possible that even gentle pressure in a certain area coudl have broken a wire. I was trying to get in there to replace a burnt out license plate bulb. Should have left it alone!