kingjack133

khb

Hi A friend had the same problem{92 es300} and it went away and then came back and went away again.There had been NO loss of fluid detected. If it is a seal...could air have gotten into the hydraulic system and found a way out again? I m following this post and would really like to know what the final diagnosis and solution is.

Good luck and i hope its a cheap fix ........

hello evreyone just want to see if anyone can help me with this. i just bought a 92 es300 from a family freind. the car was sitting for over a year because the head gaskets were blown. but has full power and drives fine.

at first i could drive the car anywhere at cruzing speeds and it wouldnt overheat unless i drove it hard. after the head gaskets where replaced it would over heat after driving a short time.

has the knock sensor 55 code(no check engine light on)

now it only overheats while driving i can leave it idling for a long time and it wont overheat but 5 min of driving will put it in the red boiling over.

i started by doing a full tune-up on my car(spark plugs,plug wires,oil change,air filter)

changed all vacumme hoses one at a time.

did a few coolant flushes changed out all the fluids in the car except the power steering fluid.

new timing belt and waterpump added when head gasket was replaced. new low temp thermostat(not currently installed running with no thermostat).

i checked the diag port and connected e1 to op1 to check the fan speed and the fan speed is fine.

power steering pump sensor is connected. replaced coolant temp sensor and the sensor next to it which is the injection time switch.

there are no leaks anywhere and i have bled the coolant system of air pockets.

please help me with this. if you need more info ill post it. please post and contact me at mperez925@yahoo.com

Hi... ok ...i believe your problem IS an air pocket in the system. Many of us have been in your shoes and after lots of trial and error and effort i am sure this is the problem. I have solved it in my 92 and have had no overheating in 2 years. Here s what to do;

1 when cold in morning...top up at rad cap{which is not on rad or expansion tank but above water pump}

2 do this every morning untill you don t need to

3 all levels should become normal and therefore ....overheating problem solved!

....keep us posted as to your progress

The cv joint at each front wheel is encased by these rubber boots. They are filled with greese and lube the bearings within the boot. Torn boots let the grease escape and the dirt and moisture in, causing wear and deterioration of the bearings. This leads to catastrophic loss of steering and wheel function. It is imperative they are repaired ASAP.

Haa.. just notice your car just like mine is that a 95?

Look up lexucan post on this topic. It is quite thorough. He is The Man....

....mine is a 92

you love me huh ;)

Values?!? Do you mean valves?

love, do you mean loathe? by the way sw...what happened to "scary lexus dealers" post of Nov 29/07. I can t find it....has it been deleted? hmmmm....

Look up lexucan post on this topic. It is quite thorough. He is The Man....

The water pump bearing wears out and leaks. It gets worse and leaks more, and onto the timing belt which causes it to deteriorate more quickly.

Personally, i would fix any cooling issue asap and avoid the much larger problems that may occur if you delay. Take the advice you ve been given here.....

FiRStlie i donut half problem with way u rote.....i kinda liked the flo!!! Got yerself in a worse can of worms as u went along but at least u tried. Hope someone here really helps you.....

Sorry.......white smoke sounds like a cracked head, water getting into the cylinder and turning to steam and out the exhaust, along with a blown head gasket. Is the oil contaminated? Are coolant levels going down? Either of these support blown head/gasket diagnosis.

...check the alternator, it may not be charging the battery. Your smptoms are exactly like when the alternator diodes in my '92 were "burnt out". I then had the alt. rebuilt for under a hundred. (They replace the diodes).

I would take it to a shop for a diagnosis and estimate, free ....hopefully!.Once you know for sure what the problem is, maybe it can be fixed at your dads shop where he can give you a break on cost and not rip you off or call you stupid? ....hmmm.....otherwise find a good shop.

Nacmias....It seems to me that when any vehicle is first purchased, from a dealer, it is brand new (ie new meaning less than 25 miles ) and not necessarily a lexus....duh!

There are scores of DIY Lexus owner/fanatics.....read the threads

There are tons of major problems with these cars... read the threads

There is no better ride when it is running right.

Remember the words of Bennett Cerf the noted wit, "generalizations aren t worth a damn"

....um....what was the question? scratch..scratch

Hi, I m thinking that ...yes...its because of the water its steaming. Never use 100% water only. Use a 50/50 mix and you should be ok. Also check after every cooldown and add at rad cap hole to eliminate any air pockets. Mine took quite a few applications untill it was finally air-free. No overheating problems since.....I don t worry about the expansion tank level as long as the coolant is at the top at the cap hole in the morning.

I agree steviej, when you re belt is schreeching and its time to replace....thats when auto belt dressing is handy ie; to cancel the noise untill you can get the new belt in and set up properly. There is no need for it on a newly installed belt as it won t be squealing if it s set up properly. I stand corrected!

I wonder why the product is sold? If after you tighten up those belts and there is still squeeling, maybe thats when it may be ok to use. I wonder...

I recently had an oil leak and it turned out to be a loose oil filter......sometimes its so simple. Otherwise the additives soften the seals and stop minor leaks that come with age. Locate the source and if its a camseal which i suspect it is, learn to live with it. You ll get many miles without paying through the nose for the sake of a bit of oil on the cardboard you put on your driveway when you park.

...spray on some belt dressing

...use a 50/50 mix water >coolant

add at cap hole(rad cap not plastic tank) with car running cold and let warm up adding bits at a time

you want to get the AIR out as much as possible

....when the thermostat opens(temp guage just below halfway) the level wil dramatically drop and you should top up and put the cap on

....now add to resevoir(expansion tank) up to the line(not full)

stage2

....in the mornings or when motor is COLD top up at rad cap hole

when u no longer need to top up, add to expansion tank bottom line

....continue to monitor untill you are sure the cooling system is full with no air pockets

...this may take a few days

IMPORTANT: NEVER remove rad cap when motor is hot.....it is under PRESSURE!!!!

the jug collects hot coolant which is expanded under the heat in motor and under pressure

when it cools it goes back into system

....if you know someone with experience doing this USE THEM!!

Briefly share you re worst or best expeience at a Lexus dealer......

Hi. if you drive the car normally and are easy on the tranny and your mileage is still low and you ve had the warranty services.....well i think the tranny should last longer than 5 years. What exactly "went" on the tranny and how common would it be on 2004 es330 s? Do some homework, get some expert advice,possibly here, and see where you can take it......it doesn t sound dealer related though other than they might honor some type of defect repair......but don t hold your breath. Wish you luck.

and it seems to always happen at the dealers.....coincidently.....hmmm.........bull!

...excellent info George

...probably a cam seal, and the oil is seeping through and down rolling off the tranny. LOTS of miles to go before it gets too serious if thats the cause.

There is oil for high milers which conditions the seals and internal engine parts. Add oil as needed and it will always be that much cleaner. You SHOULD pinpoint the source of the leak to be sure.