lht

Yes. JimsGX. I had a whole CD ROM repair and electrical.

Hi all,

After read your all information, I had no luck. I had to hold down '1+4+6+power button' in order to enter the security code. My question is how you able to enter 4 digits into the radio. My radio only let me enter 3 digits at a time.

Lht

Thank you all for the information. Because I set the security is disabled.

As delivered from the factory, the radio is not protected by a security code. People are free to choose whatever code they want. I think I used part of my birthdate the one time I enabled the security code.

So you buy a Nakamichi on ebay for a 100 bucks to upgrade your Pioneer and you are stuck with a locked out stereo? I just bought a 92 with a stock Pioneer and am afraid to change the battery now as the original owner is dead! How do I know if the security is enabled ?

Cleaning your throttle body may help solve a rough idle problem.

lht

UPDATE:

Its funny that you post that because just before I read your post, I took my car for a drive and 1 or 2 minutes into the drive, the check engine light turned off. After that, the car ran perfectly fine. I drove it hard for a few bursts and the car seemed to run fine.

Got back to work and as I was parking, the car felt a little rough again, again it feels like a cylinder is misfiring or something. This time no check engine light at all though. Do you think that all of these problems stem from just having to change the sparkplugs, wires, caps and rotors?

I was thinking maybe 1 cylinder is misfiring, therefore sending too much unburnt fuel through the EGR causing it to set off the Code 71, which in turn set off 25 and 26 because of me cleaning it. Does that make any sense?

I just bought the car recently and havent done the normal Sparkplug/caps/rotors/wires yet, so I dont know when the last time they have been replaced. Would it make sense that this would be the problem?

'

Thankyou for any help you can provide.

You say that you drove it hard. How hard? Flooring it? How many miles on the car? Any of those things you mention can have an effect on performance. Could be an ejector malfuctioning but remote. Spark plugs misfireing? coil or wire breaking down? Or a combination? The computer detects all of these. If the car has a lot of miles and has not had preventive maintainence or little maintainence, these things can contribute to it's performance.

!Removed! luck and post your results so that others can benefit. A fix for one car does not neccessarily mean it will fix another.

Hi all,

I have 1992 Lexus 400 LS with 170,000 miles on it, it stills running very strong. I did my own schedule serviced in last 10 years. I have not spends dine at a Lexus dealer yet. Thanks God. My problem is got new battery put in now the radio doesn't wands the old code put in anymore. I try more than 4 times now it lockup. My question is anybody out there know how to cracks this? I don't wand take it to the dealer ask for a reset new code. Please help.

Here my radio info:

VIN # JT8UF11EXN0110852

Part # 86120-50020

Model # KEH-9641ZT/US

Serial # LJ039338

Name # Pioneer Electronic Corp.

Thanks

Check you front calibers may be one of them got stuck. I bet ya 100%

lht

I have 174K on my 92 LS400 and for a year I have had a noticeable amount of vibration at speeds of 70 to 80 MPH with the vibration at its greatest at 75 MPH. The vibration only occurs at the mentioned speed, not in park at any RPM, and not at lower around town speeds. The vibration seems to come up from the floor and you feel it in your seat and then all over at 75MPH.

I have recently bought new tires (Michelin Energy MXV4Plus XSE) and had the rotors turned and the vibration remained the same. I had the car test driven and inspected be a shop that specializes in Lexus and Toyota. The struts and strut mounts are original yet in good condition. The tranny mount is in great shape appearing to be new; I have owned the car for 5 years so the previous owner my have replaced it. The motor mounts are showing their age but intact. The lower ball joints have some play. By what I have read and in talking to the mechanic the opinion is that the vibration we are experiencing is not one that would be caused by the lower ball joints.

One thing I have not read much about in this forum is vibration related to the drive line and or carrier bearing. Shifting between reverse, neutral, and drive is very quite and smooth. I have had a similar vibration on a domestic truck and replacing the carrier bearing did the trick..

Please share your ideas and opinions.