tcisine

Worked perfectly, thanks! (the last line should read UNLOCK not LOCK)

Sit in the driver's seat and lock all the doors.

Unlock and open the driver's door.

Insert the key into the ignition and remove it (don't turn it...just remove it).

Using the MANUAL lock switch on the driver's door, lock and unlock the door 5 times.

Close the door.

Open the door.

Lock and unlock the driver's door 5 times (I'm almost certain you use the MANUAL lock switch again, but if this sequence fails to work, try again with the power switch).

Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the "ON" position.

Remove the key.

The driver's door will now lock and unlock itself one time.

Press and hold the "LOCK" button on the key fob for at least 1 second.

Close the driver's door.

Open the driver's door.

Press and hold the "LOCK" button on the key fob for at least one second.

Close the driver's door.

Press and hold the "LOCK" button on the key fob. The door will lock.

Press and hold the "LOCK" button on the key fob again. The door will unlock.

You should be all set.

Did you ever get it straightened out?

I would also check the prices at a Toyota dealer for the belt/water pump replacement......it'll probably be cheaper, and they'll use the same OEM parts as would Lexus.

I had the opposite experience with fluid change/trans service. The local Toyota dealer was higher then the Lex dealer, and they were both owned by the same company (Hendrick). I ended up having a local shop that works on domestic and imports do the work for aboug half of the dealer's estimate. So far, so good, but it does not take a master tech to change fluids....

Lexus. I have an Acura as well and the Ac has better toys, but the Lex is a better car...

I have a 1995 ES300 with about 100,000 miles on it. It has mostly trouble free operation except for things like exterior door handles. My issue is though with gas mileage. I am only getting about 200 miles or for a full tank. I don't understand why this has gotten so bad. The car has no check engine light or other major mechanical flaws. I am little cautious to take it some where to be checked because I have been screwed over in the past. Are there any major known reasons why the gas mileage might be so bad? Is there anything major that I should look for or check out that will help determine why it is so bad? Thanks for any advice you all can give.

Try a tank of good gas with some good fuel injector cleaner in it. Drive it fairly hard with that tank to try to clean the injectors and blow any excess carbon out. That would be my first recommendation that is inexpensive and worth a try. Good Luck

I have been told that the 96 and 97 engines of ES300 are the same and therefore can share some parts. However, I am not that sure since there is a change of model in 97. Can the experts here advise whether the EGR valve of 96 be used on a 97?

I don't know for sure, but when I have questions like this I go to AutoZone/PepBoys/etc and look up the part number. This works, even if the part number is for an aftermarker part, as long as the brand name is the same. If the same part number is listed for the 96 and 97, then they are the same. That is an easy to find out for sure and for free...

Good luck!

Anyone know if there is an aftermarket GPS for the es330. One that will really boost the technology in the car to have good bluetooth, sirrius etc? Will it fit good? where to get it?

The only thing I have seen so far are a few universal models in the Crutchfield catalog. www.crutchfield.com

Bought my 99 ES300 for $9k a month ago, with just over 130,000 miles. Scared my wife to spend that kind of money on a car with that many miles, but kbb on it was over 11k. Everything works perfectly, except for some reason one rear door doesn't lock and unlock with the rest of them (the reason I found this forum in the first place, as well as how to program the garage door opener, which didn't work by following the owner's manual directions). Now I have 3 vehicles, all with over 100,000 miles - 95 Volvo 850 turbo wagon with 193,000; 70 Mustang convertible with 115,000 (an ongoing project, but very drivable) and this one.

I feel bad now, seeing all the deals everyone else got, but I'll hold off judgment on whether this was a good deal or not until a few more years have passed. If I get a quarter million out of it without tremendous additional expense, given how it rolls down the road (and I'm getting 26 mpg normally) sleek and silent, I'll be very happy.

I am in the same situation as you. I thought I got a decent deal until I started reading this thread. I bought a '98 with 120K this year from the orig owner for $7600. All work was done at the Lexus dealer and car is in great condition except they did not do the 120K service since they were selling it. I am slowly working on changing the fluids and doing that service...

It looks like I may be ok. Both keys are black and both turned of the security light immediately without turning the key. Thanks!

insert your key into the ignition, but don't turn it and when the "security light" (on the dashboard) stops blinking immediately, that is your master key. Don't get your master key confused with your valet key.

Do the master and valet look the same? I will try looking at the security light next time I see the car. (my wife drives it)

Thanks!

Perhaps someone can help me. I tried searching past threads and have become more confused than I already was.

I just purchased a 98 ES 300 and it came with 2 keys but no key fobs for the keyless entry/security/trunk. I was going to purchase a fob and program it from eBay, but they say you have to have the master key. What is this master? I have 2 black keys with the Lexus logo in gold on the key. Are these a Master? I was told the fobs were with the car when it was traded in, but the dealer reprogrammed them to another car and will not give me any replacement. :(

Can someone explain it to the newbie? Thanks!

Ted

I am sure I am nowhere near the highest but I have 123K