Boost_Junkiee

Have you checked the crank position sensor? I am betting it is bad. Rotate the crank by hand and you should see the values rise and fall as the sensor passes each one of the reluctor wheel located on the crank. (unplugging the sensor and checking it with a DVOM) it should be a two wire sensor I believe. Start there. If thats good then check to see the injectors are firing using a little injector light tool you can get from autozone or your DVOM to check voltage when cranking. Those should be good starting points.

oh and the 2 wire sensor near the oil housing is probably the oil pressure switch. The crank sensor goes into the block near the front of the motor to read the signal off the reluctor wheel I was speaking of earlier.

Did your current cluster read inaccurately before it took a dump? Either way I think all your problems are in the cluster. If you had access to a repair manual and a dvom you could test the sensors and harness for any issues and test the connectors at the cluster for specified values.

I would still suggest that you rotate them just as process of elimination.

You have to replace the cluster.

make sure you didnt damage the drain hose, most flooded cars come in after someone like a quicklube place tore off the hose or shoved it up in the car to keep it from draining on them. The hose is located under the passenger side of the car near the firewall and is just a black hose hanging there.

Usually its just the cluster that went bad. Bad instrument clusters are somewhat common and they aren't cheap. and about your abs and vsc what makes you think they aren't working? Are the abs and vsc dash lights on solid? If so you have something else going on and need to get a scan tool on it.

Hi all,

I've got a 2001 GS430 with some noises...I think it's coming from the front wheels and I'm guessing it's the wheel bearings. However, I'm a bit confused. My left rear wheel bearing went bad a while back. It made an a humming noise, increasing to a peak around 35 mph and most notable while turning right it increase in volume then decrease when turning left or when I increased speed.

My front seems like it's making the same noise except for the fact it happens at higher speeds--closer to 45-50 mph and doesn't seem to increase or be more noticeable when I turn either direction. Does this sound like a wheel bearing problem to you? I kind of assumed since the rear went bad, then it doesn't seem unreasonable that the front's might go bad as well but I assumed it would happen at the same speeds and have the same characteristics as the rear. It's rather expensive to fix them without knowing if this is the issues or not so I'm trying to get some other, more experienced opinions.

Thanks in advance!

Do you have aggressive tread pattern tires? or get new tires? Usually most complaints I get are a humming noise that ends up being the tires. A wheel bearing will groan louder when loaded, like when you turn side to side.

I'm nearly at my wit's end. The car is a '98 GS300. The only brake light that works is the back dash light. So that rules out the brake light switch. I've checked bulbs, every fuse in the car, and the trunk hinge wiring harness that gives so much trouble on the LS.

None of the other brake lights work. The orange indicator on the instrument panel stays lit.

Everything was fine until a bulb blew out. Simultaneously, the fuse that controls the transmission lock and brake lights blew. I replaced the fuse and the trans lock works fine, but no brake lights.

Any assistance, ideas, or condolences greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Sounds like you have a short, pull out any burnt bulbs (trust me they will be black if not melted) inspect the sockets and see if there is any burns in the sockets themselves. If so you need to replace the socket along with the bulbs. Do you have a wiring diagram?

If there is a fault with your pedal position sensor you need to verify that the sensor is bad. Also, my experience is if its running rough and stumbles I will usually inspect/clean the throttle body and MAF sensor (you need special electronics cleaner safe on diodes and sensors). Its not uncommon for these to get dirty and dirty t/b's usaully cause 90% of rough running conditions. If your car is heavily hesitating and misfiring you need to have it scanned at the dealership and dont throw parts at it. Diagnostic scan tools are priceless and Im not talking about the scan tool Autozone lets you use. Yes you have to pay a technician to hook up a computer but lexus parts are not cheap enough to just throw at your car in hopes it fixes the problem.

Been wrenching with my dad since I could walk, he was a tech. I went to school and got my degree and the whole bit and now I work at Lexus here in Texas.