jet_a_jockey

I've done several of these on different toyota engines, and there are a few methods that have worked best. First is to get a hammering type impact, 3/4 or 1 inch works best with plenty of PSI to push it. If you can't get one, then another method is to put a breaker bar on it (can use a pipe, something like for fencing). You need leverage. The other thing to do is to take an old belt and wrap it around the pulley to keep it from moving. This is obviously done best with 2 people, as one can wrap the belt and twist it on a big screwdriver and then apply pressure to tighten down on it against something. While doing this, the other guy can use the breaker bar on the bolt itself.

Another thing is I've had to use a 3/4 impact several times, as in trying to break it loose, running low on air, trying again. I've done that 5 times consecutively and had one come loose, so even if it seems like its not doing anything it may be jarring it loose slowly, so don't give up on it with the impact too quickly.

The whole 'using the starter' thing scares me as a somewhat small project could turn into a big problem on the other side of the engine if things go awry.

I assume that you got it taken care of by now, so congrats lol :D

It seems that when I had my tires rotated last, one of the lug nuts was incorrectly installed, so now the thread is effectively destroyed.

How can this be fixed ? Can I do it ?

Thanks !

I havent had to fix any wheel studs on mine (yet) but im fairly certain they are like nearly every other car. They are driven out, and in. It's a tight fit, requires a tool or lots of poundage :) . You are probably best taking it to the shop that screwed it up, its not a tough fix for those who deal with it all the time.

ya that wasnt the oil pump, its the oil filter housing, and i replaced the o-ring and it solved the problem, now absolutly no oil leakage. Aslo did the seafoam afterwards in the intake through booster line and the car runs perfectly smoooooth!

I was gonna say, I've removed the oil pump off a 1mz and it is a serious job. It involves tearing down past the timing stuff, removing the crank timing gear, and also dropping the upper and lower oil pan.

I have a 92 lexus ES300. I just ripped out the factory stereo and want to install a sony cd player. I bought the fitting kit and set that all up and managed to power up the cd player. The only problem is I can't figure out how to connect the speaker wires. My kit came w/ one harness that clipped on the factory harness and that had all the power wires on it (that's how I was able to power it up fine). Is there another harness I can buy that plugs in that other clip and will connect my speakers? I really don't want to start cutting wires up....

yes, there is.

When I did mine, however, I cut the wires, since all I needed was the 12v constant, acc and ground, and antenna, i ran rca cables for speaker feed.

Anyhow, yes you can get a wiring harness adapter, try this site

http://www.installer.com

having the timing a tooth off could cause this also, but i'm leaning towards an ecu or sensor issue.

I just put new head gaskets on my 93 es300 and it smokes so bad. The smoke just rolls out. It smells like gas and the heater doesnt work. I put all new gaskets, Thermostat and cleaned everything good. I am lost I thought for sure the head gaskets would fix this problem. It was doing the same thing before I put on the gaskets. It also idles funny but that is probally because it is burning to much gas.

I read somewhere something about the power steering fluid going into the intake and burning. If anybody can help i would really appreciate it.

what kind of smoke? is it losing coolant? whats the oil look like? any engine codes?

Hi thomas,

what kind of shape are your springs in? Are they original? Do you notice any excessive movement of the car when stopping and taking off? Looks like other than springs, you've covered everything else under there.

I bought this 1998 ES300 with 136k on it. pretty good car, until i got the Catalytic converter Heat Shield tied up with matel wire from machenic. may be since then its not accelerating the way it supose to be, its very loud when i press gas all the way down. any idea. i have no idea how to brows around this forum. please let me know at nomi_khan28@hotmail.com if you have any idea about the issue. i checked the plugs they are fine. got the oil changed and used supreme gas all the time. i had 1994 V6 camry last year and that was very silent when ever i did suden acceleration. no warnings lights and the ODBll scaner did not returned any code at all. is there any possibility that machenic might have demaged the ciramin in Catalytic conver by that tight matel tie with bolt on it. i just noticed some oil drip around valve conver, appreciate any help

If the catalytic converter had broken loose from its hangar, then your exhaust pipe may have been vibrating and moving around, which could cause an exhaust leak. If you have an exhaust leak at one of the flanges, then it should set an o2 sensor check engine code, and if the leak is big it will be loud when the engine is under a load. Other than that, I suppose its possible that your cat could be damaged, but not likely unless the guy was beating on it with a hammer or something.

Hi guys and ladies,

I always put 91 octane unleaded fuel in my 94 es, but I just wonder if it is ok to put 88.

What does the owners manual say because I lost mine. Sorry.

I'll check mine next time im in the car, not totally sure. regular unleaded won't hurt it, though, its not a super high compression engine and doesn't have forced induction. If the octane of the fuel is lacking, the most it will do is !Removed! the timing some to compensate for pre-ignition. In doing that, you may experience a slight decrease in performance, but probably not a noticeable amount.

Hello,

I bought a 99 es300 couple months ago with 80K miles and it's been running just fine. This past weekend, I took it for a 1500-mile road trip. I pull into a gas station for restroom break, etc, and when I turned the engine on it just wouldn't remain running. It just shut itself off immediately. It went on like that for several times til I had to hold down the gas pedal. Luckily after holding down the gas pedal for a minute or so, the engine remained running once the gas was released and I was unable to drive straight home for the next 5 hrs. I dared not to turn the engine off during that 5-hr span.

Seeking advice from all auto guru. Thanks.

Is the check engine light on? It could be a number of things. Throttle position sensor comes to mind. You should have gotten a check engine light on if one of the sensors was acting up.

No engine lights went on or any indication of trouble. I've been using super unleaded since I bought. The last gas station I pulled in was Shell, and I think I used 93 octane, or the highest of the three grades.

I just noticed, you are from pensacola also :)

The mechanic told me this afternoon that number 4 & 6 injectors were being held open. He thinks either the computer (ECM) is causing it or a short somewhere in the wiring. I'm curious though, would that cause it to smoke that bad and the other symptoms I've been having?

They are going to have someone look at it thoroughly tomorrow to try and track down exactly what is causing the injectors to stay open.

Yes definitely, raw fuel out the tailpipe as well as dark smoke is an indicator of way too much fuel. Also your terrible gas mileage. Here's a good snippet of how fuel injectors work.

A fuel injector is nothing more than a high-speed valve for gasoline. An engine computer or controller is used to control the fuel injector. Contrary to popular belief, this is NOT done by sending power to the injector. Fuel injectors are normally fed power whenever the ignition key is on. The computer controls the negative, or ground side, of the circuit. When the computer provides the injector with a ground, the circuit is completed and current is allowed to flow through the injector. This energizes an electromagnetic coil inside the injector, which pulls a sealing mechanism (pintle, ball, or disc) away from its seat. This makes it possible for fuel to flow through the injector and into the engine. When the computer removes the electrical ground to the injector, the electromagnetic coil becomes demagnetized and a spring forces the pintle, ball, or disc shut to cut off fuel flow. Even at an engine speed of just 1000 RPM, this is done hundreds of times per minute.

They should be able to narrow it down through testing, the electrical routing for the injectors is not that complicated.

Yup, and the problem is you can argue all day with them (dealers) on it. I found the low-cost Lexus dealer and that was the best avenue for me. Is it right, no but neither is the labor rate books too. Lexus I think in general is a total ripoff but people love them. They should be nice to you (customer) for $130 for an oil change or the "checks" they do! But if you have no clue on cars, it is well worth it.

The original posters price is damn good if you ask me. I also agree IF the WP breaks but after talking with other lexus owners and the Lexus dealer at 80 to 100K replacing a WP is throwing money away.

Yeah its definitely a good price, especially so for a dealer. I'm a freak when it comes to changing water pumps, i've had so many spring leaks on me its not even funny. Peace.

Thanks for your informative posts.

I decided I will go to the Toyota dealer for the PCV valve as it is only a few dollars more.

I have a few follow-up questions.

1. Since I will be at the dealer, I will pick up the Toyota recommended red coolant and a friend/mechanic will change it. On my car does anyone know how many gallons I will need?

2. Does my car have a plug to drain the transmission fluid, thus not requiring the pan to be dropped?

3. Is Toyota transmission fluid any different than any other transmission fluid? If so, I can also pick this up when I am at the dealer.

Thanks again,

Anovice

1. Check the book for the proper amount.

2. Don't know, my 94 does. Are you changing the transmission filter also?

3. People argue these issues all the time, but I've yet to really see any conclusive evidence either way. Personally, I've not had any issues with non-toyota brand stuff. I know that many parts and what nots that are branded by different companies often come from a single supplier. So the main difference in brands is quality control levels, and possibly whatever 'perks' they give to their stuff. A good example of this is the difference between gasoline brands. Most often, the gas for different filling stations all comes from the same refinery. the only difference, if any, is if they put their brand of additive in it.

But Toyota/Lexus uses life time fuel filters.....

I recently pulled the fuel filter off of mine at 220k. Looks like someone attempted it at one time and rounded the bottom nut off, so it's probably original. Anyhow, the fuel coming out of it was brown :D

A new filter is only 15-20 bucks, so its a good buy, especially if the car has been sitting for a period of time, and because sometimes the quality of fuel can be questionable.

I replaced the fuel filter, with a Toyota genuine one, not a $15 one, on my 1992 LS a couple of months ago. The original one on my car seemed fine, and I would not have changed it had I not already bought another. The service manager at my local Lexus dealer told me they never change fuel filters, for the same reason noted by mburnickas. Toyota filters are designed to last the life of the car.

Changing the filter is not going to help fuel that has been sitting in the car for a long time. The only thing that will prevent that is fuel stabilizer added to the gas tank before the car will not be driven for an extended period.

I was talking about the filter being stopped up just due to gunk, I know rust and particulate matter in the fuel tank can restrict filter flow, so to avoid misdiagnosing a problem later on I always do the easy fixes when I can.

I agree with Mburnicka...that price is good and I would have them look at the water pump before replacing it ad hoc, the actual 90 thousand mile service does not even mention replacing the water pump, although I do see that it would be a good time to do it since they are right there. I would also recommend new belts, have them check your valve cover gaskets for leaks and your cam shaft seals. As far as parts are concerned I thought the Toyota Camry and the ES300 were pretty much identical, I know the haynes manual treats them the same, so maybe they just want to be sure, either way, sounds like your in good shape.

Consider yourself lucky, I spent $1600 at the lexus dealership for my 90k service and some incidentals.

Thanks for all your insights. I just confirmed with my local toyota dealer that the price quote does indeed includes everything, new belts and everything else in between, as mentioned. I do, however, agree to both of you regarding the WP. I will have them check it if it needs replacement. If the WP does not need to be replaced, I would rather divert the cost on having them possibly check my valve cover gasket. Small amounts of oil have been gathering around the valve cover. I have tightened the front VC, but not the back. It seems abit involved and difficult to get to with all the plumbing I have to contend with. Otherwise, the car has served us well. Thanks again.

In my experience with dealerships in the past, they will often charge separate labor costs for WP and timing belt replacement. This is a ripoff, since the T-belt has to come off to get to the water pump anyway. Many mechanic shops will charge you to put a new water pump on and throw on a new T-belt for parts cost. I'd try calling around to some shops, preferably those who specialize or have experience in imports, and get an estimate.

Changing the water pump is always a good idea, because if it does start to leak, you'll wish you had it done, and that tow bill and future repair costs will far outweigh the cost of getting it done ahead of time. (not to mention its right there when the timing belt is changed)

God bless.

I am replacing the valve cover gaskets on my 96 ES300 and want to replace the tube seals since the original ones are old and cracked. The covers have a splash guard that appears to be bradded onto the cover which retains the seals. what is the proper way to replaced them.

Your help is appreciated.

Surely someone out there has had to replace thier spark plug tube seals on a ES300 before. I have the same question about tube seal replacement that LEEVIV posted but haven't had any luck finding out how to change them out. Specifically I would like to know how the new ones go back in because it's not very difficult to remove the old brittle ones but they're worthless by the time you get them out.

If you look at how the old seals are in there, you need to take a punch or a flat head screwdriver, and bend 2 metal tabs back that are helping hold the seals in place. once you do that, then you can use the screwdriver to pop the old seals out. Be careful not to gouge the metal seat that they rest in. To put the new seals in, I used a big socket that was almost identical size to the seals, and then tapped them in by resting the socket on top of the seal. Once that is done, then take the punch and bend the metal tabs back over the seal. the end :)

Thank you jet_a_jockey for taking the time to explain the removal and replacement of the tube seals. When looking at them it doesn't seem as though you could bend them back but sure enough, it worked for me. :D

Hey! Been a while since i been on here and posted but there is a trick to getting the tube seals out...Blow torch! We melted the plastic and they popped right out otherwise you will waste an indiscriminate amount of time trying to get them out.

I bet that works well too.. When I first tried to pull them out, I went the caveman method with a huge screwdriver and hammer and it took quite a while to get all the plastic pieces out. The problem I had going back in though was getting around those metal tabs, so I ended up having to bend them out anyway. Take care.

I am replacing the valve cover gaskets on my 96 ES300 and want to replace the tube seals since the original ones are old and cracked. The covers have a splash guard that appears to be bradded onto the cover which retains the seals. what is the proper way to replaced them.

Your help is appreciated.

Surely someone out there has had to replace thier spark plug tube seals on a ES300 before. I have the same question about tube seal replacement that LEEVIV posted but haven't had any luck finding out how to change them out. Specifically I would like to know how the new ones go back in because it's not very difficult to remove the old brittle ones but they're worthless by the time you get them out.

If you look at how the old seals are in there, you need to take a punch or a flat head screwdriver, and bend 2 metal tabs back that are helping hold the seals in place. once you do that, then you can use the screwdriver to pop the old seals out. Be careful not to gouge the metal seat that they rest in. To put the new seals in, I used a big socket that was almost identical size to the seals, and then tapped them in by resting the socket on top of the seal. Once that is done, then take the punch and bend the metal tabs back over the seal. the end :)

Thank you jet_a_jockey for taking the time to explain the removal and replacement of the tube seals. When looking at them it doesn't seem as though you could bend them back but sure enough, it worked for me. :D

glad you got it :)

Bump... I replaced the Ignitor and still same problem. Engine dies and shows Ignitor Circuit Malfunction code p1300. Any ideas?????

I don't have the wiring diagram for the igniter in front of me, but I can tell you that you may have another issue further down the line. I've replaced the igniter in toyota's a few times and it seems like they are rarely the problem, it usually ends up being a coil, or ecu problem. IIRC there is a method to test the igniter to make sure it's working properly, and you could grab another igniter out of a junkyard for alot cheaper than buying a new one, if you decide that it is the problem.

Hello,

I bought a 99 es300 couple months ago with 80K miles and it's been running just fine. This past weekend, I took it for a 1500-mile road trip. I pull into a gas station for restroom break, etc, and when I turned the engine on it just wouldn't remain running. It just shut itself off immediately. It went on like that for several times til I had to hold down the gas pedal. Luckily after holding down the gas pedal for a minute or so, the engine remained running once the gas was released and I was unable to drive straight home for the next 5 hrs. I dared not to turn the engine off during that 5-hr span.

Seeking advice from all auto guru. Thanks.

Is the check engine light on? It could be a number of things. Throttle position sensor comes to mind. You should have gotten a check engine light on if one of the sensors was acting up.

The best way to check to see if there's water in the oil, is to pull the oil drain plug. Oil floats on top of water, so the first thing to come out of the drain should be water, if there's any in there. White smoke usually indicates coolant or oil getting into the combustion chamber, which is usually a problem with a cylinder head or head gasket. You can also have white smoke from running lean, which would also give the symptoms of stuttering at higher RPMs, as well as excessive heat in the exhaust. (the cat can actually glow red).

If I were you, I'd first rule out that you have a head problem by pulling the drain plug on the oil and taking a look. Good luck.

to answer your offtopic:

sorta and no

But Toyota/Lexus uses life time fuel filters.....

I recently pulled the fuel filter off of mine at 220k. Looks like someone attempted it at one time and rounded the bottom nut off, so it's probably original. Anyhow, the fuel coming out of it was brown :D

A new filter is only 15-20 bucks, so its a good buy, especially if the car has been sitting for a period of time, and because sometimes the quality of fuel can be questionable.

dens, my grandparents live in ilo ilo. :) go jeepney.

do you notice any smoke at startup? Could be valve stem seals also. If you have a worn oil ring, chances are it will be evident on the spark plug of that cylinder, so a good prepurchase inspection sounds like a worthy investment.

Happy Easter!

I have a 1992 Es300 with 140,000 miles. I am using the car fairly sparingly and would like to get a few more years use from it. I decided I am not going to put the money in to fix the oil leaks, dash board lights, radio that went out and a like. However, the oil is changed every 3,000 miles, the air filter every year and I would like to keep up on non-expensive maintenance. The last time 'major' service performed was 3 years ago when the timing belt, water pump, belts, coolant, transmission fluid, fuel filter, plugs, etc. were looked after. At that time, the car had 116,000 miles. To this end, I am thinking of getting the following done and have a few questions:

Coolant - Does it matter if the color is red or green?

There was an issue years ago about mixing coolant types, but as far as I know, it has been resolved. Best to check with a toyota mechanic though.

Transmission Fluid - The last time the service was done, the shop had a piece of equipment that 'flushed' the fluid. The prior time the pan was dropped. As I recall, the cost for each service was the same at about $100 because when the pan was dropped it cost $45 for a 'kit', which I guess, was a new gasket and what ever else. As I also recall reading, flushing is better because all the old fluid is removed where as when the pan is dropped a bunch stays in. Is this correct? Cost being about equal, which way would you go?I prefer a flush over a drain and fill, but I am still superstitious about getting a flush done to a vehicle that has a ton of neglect. However, I think that most of those cases where the flush "damaged" the transmission, is not that it damaged anything at all. I think that the transmission was already having problems, which caused them to bring it in for a flush :)

Fuel Filter - At about $35 for the filter, it seems worth getting change again. The last time the filter was purchased at a Toyota dealership and a local mechanic friend installed it. Does it matter if the filter comes from the likes of Pep Boys? Out of curiosity, where on my car is the fuel filter located?I have no qualms with using a parts store brand filter. It should be located on the drivers side under the hood, on the bottom part of the area where the strut mounts on that side

PCV Valve - At about a cost of $10, this part also seems worthy of changing. Again, does it matter if this part is purchased from the likes of Pep Boys instead of the dealer? How does the old one come out and it easy to install the new one? If you get one from a parts store, spend the extra few dollars and get a good name brand. I recently bought a random PCV valve from the parts store, and it made the loudest rattling noise

Belts - Should the power steering and V belts be replaced again? It has been only 24,000 miles, but three years has passed. I'm not sure about change interval time, but if you are already in the process of replacing things you probably should. It is cheap insurance :). If either one of those belts break, then you are not going much further.

Any thoughts and suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

Anovice