GuyTelefunken

Most likely the blower control module. It's behind the glove box mounted on the air duct. The glove box must be completely removed to access it. It's about $230.00 from your local dealer. p/n 87165-22050

Hello there. Have a search around the site. This is a very popular topic. It's been covered many times. You need a new lock/actuator assembly inside the door.

Just a tid-bit. The 2004 GS430 utilizes the 3UZ-FE 4.3l engine with an aluminum block.

That being said, I find the Youtube video laughable. If it were this simple to get fantastic gas mileage, I would think we'd all be floating high on hydrogen.

Recent article about "Gas Saving Devices."

the transponders = you mean like the valet key ? right ?

All keys that will start the car have transponders in them. There are several combinations available.

Generic transponder only, cut as a master, programmed as a master. With this key, additional keys can be programmed.

Generic transponder only, cut as a valet, programmed as a valet (sub-key). With this key, additional keys cannot be programmed.

OEM Lexus transponder only, cut as a master, programmed as a master. With this key, additional keys can be programmed. (black head)

OEM Lexus transponder only, cut as a valet, programmed as a valet (sub-key). With this key, additional keys cannot be programmed. (grey head)

OEM Lexus transponder and remote, cut as a master, programmed as a master. With this key, additional keys can be programmed.

Note it is also possible to program an OEM Lexus transponder only or generic transponder only, cut as a valet, as a master. With it, additional keys can be programmed.

I can't believe no one since MAY has even attempted to help out here. I guess the old Ringers here have better things to do than to help out fellow GS owners.. I have noticed the lack of help or advice these days.. If that's the case please just shut down the forum section altogether. As for my 2 cents, I believe your issue may be caused by your CD player becoming defective within the mechanics. I'm having the same issue.. i'm still looking into it. I guess we'll have to figure it out ourselves. Hang in there buddy.

As I'm one of the "Old Ringers" you describe, and a moderator as well, I like to offer help as much as I can.

Unfortunately, the original post gives no actual details as to the location of the sound. It seems as little effort was spent describing the issue.

Hello everyone. My 2000 GS 300 turned over 90,000 miles this week and almost exactly the same time I started having a buzzing sounc occur when I first start the car. I had to laugh. It was as if it were programmed to occur at that milage. It only lasts 15 seconds are so, it is pretty loud and occurs regardless if AC or radio is on or off.

Does anyone have idea what this may be? Thanks so much. I always appreciate your responses.

Susan

Look at it from a mechanics point of view. If you took your car into the shop and said to the guy "hey, my car makes a noise, can you fix it?" He would need a heck of a lot more information before he even began to form an opinion.

That being said, if someone wants to offer a more detailed account of their problem, some fine soul on this board might be more willing to lend assistance.

Stick your head under the dash. Listen with the glove box both open and closed. Apply the brake pedal several times with the key on. (The brake modulator pumps often cycle for a short period on these cars after several brake applications or just after starting.) Open the hood and have a helper turn on the key. If you suspect it is the CD player, remove the cartridge and retest. There are many ways to help pinpoint a sound.

The parking brakes are adjustable through a hole in the rear rotors. The wheels and rotors should first be removed to check the interior surface of the rotor where the parking brake shoes ride. The shoes should also be checked for wear. After making sure all the parts are in good shape, the rotors are put back on and the brakes are adjusted through the access hole.

There is a resonator in the middle (on US cars). It may be a cat on vehicles in certain markets, such as Canada. Since you have not identified the country/region in your profile, I cannot be more specific. I agree with the note above, the technician may not be fully accurate in his diagnosis. It is rare to see multiple cat failures simultaneously without some outstanding cause. If it were me, I'd get a second opinion.

Any aftermarket is fine. They are bolt in cats. You will need new gaskets and bolts/nuts. See attachment for diagram. There are two cats; bank 1 (cylinder 1-4) and bank 2 (cylinder 5-8).

Cats.pdf

Incandescent lamps often fail in this way because of breaks in filament. When you tap it, the broken ends touch and the current flowing through the lamp temporarily welds them together. Sounds like a simple burned out lamp.

Most likely you need new door lock/actuator assemblies for each door. If you look around the forums, you will see many posts relating to this topic. They fail in various ways and it is quite common.

The most likely part to wear is the spiral cable. This part is behind the steering wheel and it winds and unwinds every time you turn the wheel. If you have any of the following symptoms as well, this part is highly suspect: non-functioning horn, airbag lamp. There is a chart attached to guide you.

Cruise_Control.pdf

It's actually the air mix actuator for the passengers side. It's a motor that moves a damper to change the air temperature. It's tight but doable for a seasoned mechanic.

If you look along the top of the wiring diagram you will see (6) fuses related to the power seat. Some of them are located in the driver's side and/or passenger's side footwell kick-panel fusebox. Also there is a 7th. fuse, (P FR DOOR, 20A). Check them all. Otherwise, you'll have to do some testing to see if there is power at the various related modules.

Power_Seat_Diagram.pdf

No offense, but if you're asking this question, you shouldn't be working on your HVAC. Take it to someone who has experience with automotive HVAC.

The blower motor is under the passenger's side dash. It's a piece of cake. When the bearings fail, it usually sounds more like a metallic, rotating squeaky sound. The sound you describe may be one or more of the servo motors that control the air doors. I've replaced several over the years and I'm going to do another one soon. There are (4) motors. One for the mode, one for recirculate, and one for the temperature of each side. I find the temperature servos tend to fail the most as they move the most to maintain the set temperature. If you want to figure out if a motor is your problem, do the following. Turn on the climate control and turn off the auto-mode. Select the lowest fan speed. Turn on dual temperature mode and adjust the temperature on one side at a time; one degree at a time. Listen to the motor move. The driver's side motor is to the left and below the radio, inside the dash. The passenger's side is to the right and below the radio, inside the dash. As you adjust the temperature one degree at a time listen to the motor move. They move in steps. If you have a bad motor, you will find a position where the motor does not just move and stop but starts to jiggle back and forth. You can hear the motor "searching" for it's set position. When a particular position starts to wear inside the motor, it will not be able to stop accurately at that spot. They usually exhibit this phenomenon at a temperature you use most or slightly below or above it.

If your motors seem to be quiet, you might want to remove the panel under the passenger's side dash and remove the blower motor. It is quite possible that some debris got into the fan and is causing the noise. It's a good time to check the filter behind the glovebox. The filter is directly above the blower motor. Remove the access panel at the rear edge inside the glovebox to access it. It is behind a cover, straight behind the access cover.

#1 - Your GS is equipped with speed sensing front suspension, That's what you hear, Normal...

What is this?

It's called the Neutral Safety Switch. It's on the side of the transmission above the exhaust. It's somewhat difficult to get at. It is possible that the shifter linkage to it has loosened but more likely that it is failing. p/n 84540-30270, about $110.00 retail if you look for the (Toyota) part number given. Note that this switch, if bad can cause the car to not start or start with the shifter in a position other than "P" or "N", which can be dangerous.

Also check the DOME 10A fuse in the passenger-side footwell.

Answer: No. They wear out from heat, contamination, and/or age. The direct-fit models from oxygensensors.com are well priced and reliable. Walker or Denso are both excellent. I would stick with the same brand for all, if you're doing all of them. Avoid the "universal" type as they must be wired to your existing harnesses. Many times this comes back to haunt you later due to corrosion at the connection point. The direct-fit models are plug-n-play.

On the GS300 it's under the intake manifold. It's fairly involved to get to it requiring several hours. On the LS400 it's behind the timing belt cover on the front of the engine, also more than a five minute job. You should have the service manual to do this so that you have all the required information such as the torque specs for the many fasteners involved.

Guy, does this mean you can't or shouldn't get your '06 GS300 brake job done at a trusted local tire dealer?

That all depends on if it is possible to change the pads without bleeding the system. I, personally have done it many times, but not on a 2006. A full "electronically aided" bleeding is only usually necessary when replacing major components other than just complete caliper assemblies. This I have also done successfully by using the old "pump the pedal" method.

I'm still trying to figure out how air got into the system during a simple pad change. If the brake line was disconnected from the caliper, I could understand that. Though I can't seem to reason why that would be necessary to change the pads.

To do a complete system bleeding (recommended in cases of improper brake pedal feel) a scantool with Lexus software is necessary to open the valves in the ABS/Brake Control module. Usually, this service is only available at a Lexus dealer.

And that's about what it costs. The switch is contained inside the latch assembly. If you feel bad now, it's really going to hurt if they all go one-by-one like mine did. I really can't complain. There had to be at least one semi-reliable part on an otherwise bulletproof car. I look at it like this. A $300.00 part is only a drop in the bucket on a $50,000.00 car.

Yes you right...I havent had any problems while the lights are on.... it doesnt seem to affect the car in anyway...the car runs normal...those lights has nothing to do with engine..... BUT the thing is I'm might sell the car because i got 3 other cars. Buyers might think that those lights are serious problems.

They are serious. Having those lights on means each of those systems is disabled. The person driving a car in this condition will not benefit from Vehicle Stability Control or Antilock Brakes.

StevieJ, Thanks for the reply. You are right, the nearest dealership to me is a little far from me. I live in a small town - Alice, Texas and the nearest Lexus Dealer is in San Antonio, Texas - 130 miles. I know it is still under warranty but like they told me - if it isn't anything that is covered then they are still going to charge me for looking at it and finding out what's wrong. So I'd rather look into it myself for now. These forums are very informative and I just thought I'd check here before having to take a day off from work to take it to the Lexus dealer. I will go to Autozone tomorrow and have them do a check and then I will post the result here. Thanks again. Rene.

You might find the local autozone has only a generic scanner. Generic scanners will like not be able to pull codes that are not directly related to the engine. It all depends on which model scantool they have.

I would make it a point to go to the dealer. It will almost definitely be covered by warranty. Unless some component is physically damaged from an accident or the like, the cause will be something electrical that has either failed or has corroded from weather, i.e. an electrical connector. Either way, it would be covered.