Kramer

My left cornering light is not working. What is the best way to get at the buld to change it?

Thanks.

Bulb socket is located all the way at the end near the fender. Just reach in there and unplug the connector and twist the socket and out pops the bulb. Just replace and follow reverse order!

Wow that really sounds great!! I've been looking for some video clips of how some SC400's sound with an exhaust sys. This one sounds great. How much was it to get all of that done? I'm def going to have to look at a set of those magnaflows. The last thing I want is to have my sc400 sounding like a ricer. The sound of your car just nailed it on what I was looking for. Thanks.

Roughly about $300 total. The mufflers were about $80 for the pair. The tips were about $35.00 for the pair. Then for the shop to use 2.25" piping and all the labor was about $150.

Yes it pulls stronger than what it did.........but it pulls differently.......if that makes sense. Because you decrease backpressure, the tranny shifts differently because less vaccuum is created. But it still has the low end torque, it is not lost completely, but midrange and top pull much stronger!! I have also seen about a 7% increase in fuel economy over a tank of fuel even with my heavier foot now!! Not too shabby!!

Part number is MAG 13945/104101 I think thats what they were......

Sounds awesome!!! Do you have part numbers for the mufflers? I could not find anything on Magnaflows website.

Sorry I threw away the boxes when I got the exhaust done. I will try to locate the exact part number for ya. They are called Magnaflow XL SS mufflers. Yes, this is true duals.....I changed out the cats to magnaflows, after that it was 2.25" piping from each cat back to the mufflers, no more resonators either. And those are Airspeed tips on the mufflers as the mufflers did not come with tips. There were no issues with space or mounting, everything lined up perfectly, just like stock because the mufflers are the same dimensions as the OEM ones........the muffler shop guy was very impressed with how it turned out as I was too!!

This link should answer all your questions...............

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...p;rd=1&rd=1

I just bought a 95 sc400 with some rear damage. The trunk is dented and the spoiler is cracked but the light on it still works. I found a lot of new spoilers online but i can't find any trunks for it. Wheres the best place i could find a new trunk for my car?

If you want new check the dealer........if you want a used one try www.taprecycling.com It stands for Toyota Auto Parts recycling. They are very reasonable on their prices and have a complete inventory listed on the site. Also try Ebay.....ya never know what you may find there! Hope this helps ya some!!

Just wondering if anyone writes (or would be willing to write) a tutorial on replacing the instrument lighting. I have seen it done in photos here and it looks really nice. The white/blue for the speedometer and such is easy on the eyes. I havn't been adventurous enough yet to take it out and look myself. So that would be great if anyone could do somthing. Thanks

BTW: 94' SC300

There is a guy that owns a business and he does it. It is a pretty extensive switchout judging by what he says. You send hime your unit and he switches out the lighting and ships it back to you. If I remember correctly it is around $150.00 He also has auctions on Ebay offering the same service. Check out the modifications forum.......hope this helps ya some!

vids/soundclips

I redid my exhaust system with taking everything off past the 1st 2 cats. I replaced the piping with true dual 2-1/4" piping all the way back which deleted the coupler cat, and the 2 resonators. The mufflers I used were the polished stainless Magnaflow XL SS mufflers which are offset just like the OEM ones. I also put on Airmass non resonating 4 inch tips. Here are the pics and some sound clips.

I'll answer what I can...

3. The alarm is activated whenever you lock the doors either using the key button, or the inside electric lock button, given that the key is not in the ignition.

4. As far as I know, the switch has two settings: "NORMal" and "PWR" or power. ECT means Electronically Controlled Transmission, or something like that. It changes the shift points and the way the trans shifts. See the attachment.

5. Overdrive as I understand it at least is just a 4th, of fifth gear, depending on which year you have. So it just improves gas milage by keeping the RPMs down. And btw.. It is a big car haha, pretty friggin heavy for the size of it.

All you guys are great.

So is it better to keep it set to ECT or power for gas?

How much of difference in saving gas is it from over drive too just normal drive? Will I notice it?

Right now I have it set to Power, and never use over drive. If anything some times i put in L or 2 to take off from the line or stop light. LoL

I wont be doing that any more. Love the car way to much.

Difference in gas mileage is negligable...........Im not sure if will notice a huge difference........maybe 10-15 miles less per tank keeping it on power.........but even that could be highly debated!!! Just enjoy!!!

Yes, I will keep ya informed and provide pics once installed. It may be a couple of weeks though as I decide what I want to get!

Not sure about the phone.

Just order another key from the dealership. Once it comes in they program it and the new key fob to work with your existing one

All the buttons around the gear shifter are the ECT/Power which means Electronically Controlled Transmission in power mode it holds the gears out longer before shifting.

There are 2 more top/left of the gear shifter, those are the buttons for the heated seats. The other button top/right of the gear shifter is Traction Control on/off

Overdrive is 4th gear or the last gear. It has less than 1:1 ratio........that is for gas mileage benefits. Just keep that button pressed in at all times. Unless you want to ride around town in 3rd gear all the time!!

Hope this helps ya out some! Welcome Aboard!!

Damn...!!! Ive been to and through all over these posts and others (from other forums) and I cant yet seem to find an answer to a question. So Ill post the question up to see if someone could help me out with this.

I would like to know what is the maximum depth and offset combo I could go with, assuming the front wheels are going to set the standard for the following factors for what I want:

I would like to have the same size all the way around since I want to prolong the life of the tires by doing 4 wheel rotations as scheduled. Yet I want to get the "flush" look as close as possible (knowing that since the limitations are more strict in the front wheels, the rear "flush" look will not fully pan out) without having to roll my fenders. I dont plan on lowering my car, so I also want to know how much meat on the tire I can get without over sizing the entire diameter of the stock size tire so that I dont affect my speedometer reading. <---- LOL... Did that make sense??? <_< Finally, what size tires would be recommended for this set up, keeping in mind all four wheels have to match size? I also dont want to rub when busting u-turns or going over bumps.

Oh yeah.... !!!! A suggestion I did get from a post was to put spacers in the back wheels so that I could "push" the rear wheel out a bit more for the flushed fender look, yet maintain the front wheel size factor in mind for rotation purposes. My concern is that Ive heard spacers are a dangerous thing to put on cause you could lose your wheels while driving down the road. Since I have my young children that I take with me sometimes, I would hate to not factor safety into this whole project. Any thoughts on spacers?

Whew!!! Sorry for the long post, but I dont know how to best explain the situation.

Thanks everyone for helping out!!!

Unfortunately that is a very tough question to answer as all types of wheels will require different offsets.....ie, if you want the wheels to have no lip, some lip, extreme lip etc, each offset will be different......concurrently depending on what size wheel you go with your tire sizes may vary also.

In a nutshell, there are too many variables to answer this question without a more definitive type of wheel you want to go with, along with diameter and width......

Yeah... I guess youre right!!! I totally see your point. Figure a "newbie" to ask something like that. :chairshot:

Thanks for taking the time to point that out Kramer

Hey man, no problem. I am in the market for wheels right now too.....I just cant decide which route I want to go as far as color.....I am going to do a stagger setup, wider in back but just cant decide if I want silver wheels, gold, or black all with polished lips.............tough decision!!!

Damn...!!! Ive been to and through all over these posts and others (from other forums) and I cant yet seem to find an answer to a question. So Ill post the question up to see if someone could help me out with this.

I would like to know what is the maximum depth and offset combo I could go with, assuming the front wheels are going to set the standard for the following factors for what I want:

I would like to have the same size all the way around since I want to prolong the life of the tires by doing 4 wheel rotations as scheduled. Yet I want to get the "flush" look as close as possible (knowing that since the limitations are more strict in the front wheels, the rear "flush" look will not fully pan out) without having to roll my fenders. I dont plan on lowering my car, so I also want to know how much meat on the tire I can get without over sizing the entire diameter of the stock size tire so that I dont affect my speedometer reading. <---- LOL... Did that make sense??? <_< Finally, what size tires would be recommended for this set up, keeping in mind all four wheels have to match size? I also dont want to rub when busting u-turns or going over bumps.

Oh yeah.... !!!! A suggestion I did get from a post was to put spacers in the back wheels so that I could "push" the rear wheel out a bit more for the flushed fender look, yet maintain the front wheel size factor in mind for rotation purposes. My concern is that Ive heard spacers are a dangerous thing to put on cause you could lose your wheels while driving down the road. Since I have my young children that I take with me sometimes, I would hate to not factor safety into this whole project. Any thoughts on spacers?

Whew!!! Sorry for the long post, but I dont know how to best explain the situation.

Thanks everyone for helping out!!!

Unfortunately that is a very tough question to answer as all types of wheels will require different offsets.....ie, if you want the wheels to have no lip, some lip, extreme lip etc, each offset will be different......concurrently depending on what size wheel you go with your tire sizes may vary also.

In a nutshell, there are too many variables to answer this question without a more definitive type of wheel you want to go with, along with diameter and width......

i think you need an hb4 or 9006 hid kit. thats the bulb number or type.

Yes for the low beam you will need 9006, Now you can use that kit in your foglight driving light socket as they are H1 bulbs!!!

Big Fu**ing Intake......

i have a 98 sc400 and thinking about getting dual magnaflows part #14829. will any cats fit these or is there a specific model # that you have and use. also what about the 2.25 " piping? waht model #. basically i need the parts and model # that you use for your exhaust so i can get the same setup.

Well those are the same mufflers that I was looking at. As far as the cats go, I was looking at FLOWMONSTER, no not a typo......thats the name of them. As far as the piping. You just get that made at the muffler shop, try for mandrel bends on the pipe instead of pinch or curl bends as those dont flow as smoothly.

I was looking around and not many companies have full exhaust systems for the SC400. I noticed HKS is one of the few. Has anyone tried their exhaust or what has anyone done to custom make your own? I was thinking of fabbing one up and wanted to get some insight on what others did and why they liked it? Give me some insight guys and gals!!

I was thinking of running true duals from the cats back with either Magnaflow mufflers or Apexi WS universal mufflers and no resonators. Either that or running a larger single center section maybe 2.5in and then back into say 2.25 rear sections.

Let me know what you guys have done! Thanks~!

It sounds like your thinking down the right path.

There's really no reason to get a entire exhaust system when it can easily be fabbed. I went with Magnaflow's hi-flow oval (look/fit like stock) polished, stainless steel mufflers with Magnaflow tips. I had the resonators just forward of the old mufflers completely removed, with the pipes replaced with 2.25" piping, straightened out as much as possible fitting around the drive train. I plan on replacing the forward two catalytic converters with hi-flow Magnaflows, as well as replacing the center cat with another hi-flow Magnaflow cat. Currently the sound is SWEET (rich, deep V8 sound, but not obnoxious), and I noticed a boost in HP for sure. Once I replace the cats with hi-flowers, I expect even more of a boost. If I remember correctly, the Magnaflow site and others will not list the correct mufflers for Lexus, but as long as it fits certain size parameters, they'll work. I believe that mine are 14" x 20" offset 2.25" in/out.

You can read Jibbby's thread on his mods (Results of SC Mods) where we discuss (in excruciating detail) all the exhaust options out there. He found that the 2.25" works best for a non-turbo SC400, bit starting with 2.5" from the cats back to the 2-in-1 center cat, the transitioning to 2.25" is my plan. If you go too large it will effect back pressure, while getting as small as feasible will help accelerate the airflow (Bernoulli's principal).

Hope this helps...Good luck.

Awesome!! That's exactly what I wanted to hear!! You dont by chance have any sound clips do you? I was really leaning towards fabrication. I have always had really good luck in the past with all my other vehicles fabbing something for less than a full aftermarket system. Thanks for your insight!!! I really appreciate it!!

I was looking around and not many companies have full exhaust systems for the SC400. I noticed HKS is one of the few. Has anyone tried their exhaust or what has anyone done to custom make your own? I was thinking of fabbing one up and wanted to get some insight on what others did and why they liked it? Give me some insight guys and gals!!

I was thinking of running true duals from the cats back with either Magnaflow mufflers or Apexi WS universal mufflers and no resonators. Either that or running a larger single center section maybe 2.5in and then back into say 2.25 rear sections.

Let me know what you guys have done! Thanks~!

Anyone else have any ideas???????

Excuse my newbie knowledge, but I've been surfing the web gathering info on sc 300s and 400s trying to decide between the 2. A big thing that people like about the 300 is that it is a manual tran, but the 400 has the V8. I lov the V8 but i want a manual because I'm addicted... is it possible to throw the 400s engine into the 300? That way you would have the same car only manual and V8. I'm so torn between the 2 and this would really help me decide.

thx! :D

Most SC300's were auto also. The manuals were very rare......I am not sure if the trans. would swap between the 2 motors. Good question though, hopefully someone would have some insight on this. My take is that they would not be swappable.

Maybe the cluster is messed up?

Well I think it may be a grounding issue. I have pulled the engine cover off and temped at the sensor with a digital temp gauge and it typically reads 170 degrees or so. The needle is pegged up above the red on the dash. I have replaced the sensor and still the same thing. As soon as I start up the needle just rises above the H. Now when I ground the needle then it drops to the C. When the car is off needle falls. but the needle is always on the H as soon as it gets cranked up. Im not sure what else to check. It could possibly be the cluster, but it just started doing this. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

I have a 97 SC400 and the sending unit or the sensor must be going bad that reads engine temp............My needle is pegged past RED HOT, but the engine temp at the sesor is only reading 174..........everytime. It may be a bad ground also. Any ideas? Anyone else ever had this issue and were able to fix it? Thanks in advance for any help!

How much are these mighty lift ones, and are they universal?

Now I checked my local stores for these. They dont have a listing for availability for the SC300/400. I was going to ask the same question. I wonder if struts for other Lexus vehicles will interchange with ours...?