mobilyte

all leftover parts are listed on ebay, my user id is the same on this site and there

car will be picked up next saturday, last week for anybody that needs parts.

check your inbox, i sent a reply via private message about the front driver seat.

garo_mcc...sorry but no, the antenna assembly is not in working condition.

after 12 years and 125k miles of service, it's time to get rid of my LS and I'll be parting the car out until the end of july.

Details
- 227k on drivetrain
- DWP (white) exterior
- Blue leather interior
- Options include traction control, heated front seats, moonroof, keyless entry

Car is located in the near north suburbs of chicago, local pickup is welcomed. otherwise, please include your zip code when inquiring about parts for shipping cost.

SOLD list

Exterior
- passenger side corner headlamp

Interior
-none so far

Drivetrain/Mechanical
-none so far

mikado (the same company out of san fran that makes the replacement climate control lcd) has a kit available.

Key/Transmitter = $50 per key

Remote Receiver = $35

Cut by VIN # = $5 per key

Shipping = $10.00

http://www.sammywu.com/

some have said that the mighty-life hood supports sold at autozone are too stiff and cause trouble closing the hood, making the hood bow. any of those problems with the variety sold on ebay/amazon?

did you hijack the signal wires going from the cd changer to the headunit? i'm also guessing you are using the headphone jack on your ipod instead of the pre-amp signal outs from the ipod dock connector...wait till everybody sees the ipod integrator i'm working on, no splicing of factory wires, will amplify pure signal from dock connector's line out to same level as changer signal, and charges ipod while connected.

according to the factory service manual, the suspension support center nut is temporarily installed then torqued after the 3 nuts are tightened on the top support. the bottom bolt for the strut bracket is installed after the top of the strut is installed, leaving me to believe that the rod should not spin. i dont know if this necessarily means a defective strut, but you can try to remove the center nut and inspect the threads you've mentioned.

what problems are you having with your brakes? doesnt it seem weird that both of your front calipers need replacing?

for pads, i use oem toyota parts. for rotors, aftermarket is okay, your existing rotors might have enough useful life in them to have them turned. for calipers, aftermarket calipers are only available for bbk upgrades. otherwise, you can get rebuilt calipers from your local parts store (autozone, murrays/cragen, napa, etc.) for a lot less than the dealership.

do not make the assumption that if 2 quarts came out, you should be putting 2 quarts back in. use it as a rough estimate, it's better to underfill and add fluid in smaller increments as you approach the correct level as indicated on the dipstick. $50 isnt bad for a case of type T-IV, considering that even generic ATF runs ~$4/quart at local parts stores.

better to replace the seal, boot and retaining pin in your existing caliper instead of using a salvage yard pull. i doubt the salvaged caliper would be in much better condition after sitting unused for so long...

his friend works at the bank that held the note on the car, he probably got to buy it for the remaining balance on the loan.

'98 LS with air, nav, chrome, 90k miles, and exc shape for $6,400

WOW.....

Do you remember where he purchased it from?

my local dealer refused to cut my genuine remote keys (still in packaging with toyota parts label) and claimed that cutting aftermarket keys would do damage to the tooling on their machine. funny part is that i ordered them from our family's body shop, but i didnt have the vin # handy so they didnt come pre-cut for the vehicle.

went down the street and had them cut for $10 by a locksmith, done in about 5 minutes.

to avoid the messy solution, first make sure you've removed the retaining ring and rubber boot around the piston. then get the piston out as much as you can with the compressed air. generously apply lithium grease around the piston and push it back into the caliper. repeat until the o-ring seal lets the piston out of its clutches.

are the motor mounts just solid rubber or filled with fluid?

my front end gives a little shimmy on occassion, but i've ruled out the brakes since i've recently overhauled the entire system. i've also done a lot of work on my ps system, swapped out the rack, pressure hose and pump. didnt replace the outer tie rods yet, and i notice that my car pulls slightly to either side, depending on her mood i guess.

the inner tie rods (factory manual calls them rack ends) are ball joints also, fair to say that they experience normal wear & tear also, cant expect the outer rod ends to do all the suffering.

here's a tutorial for the gen I LS front caliper rebuild. it's the same procedure, except your rear caliper has only 1 piston.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/fbcaliper.html

also, he removes the piston from the caliper assembly before the rubber boot and retainer clip. I personally used a c-clamp to push the pistons all the way back first, after i removed the calipers from the car, in order to remove as much of the old brake fluid as possible (it makes the whole procedure less messy). with the piston fully retracted, i removed the retaining clip and rubber boot. then just follow the rest of the procedure as outlined in the tutorial.

nc211...wouldnt worn lower ball joints also give the symptom of steering wander?

that's not pressure, it's vacuum that's created in the tank. you start off with a tank full of gas and zero air, use up the gas and the original quantity of air is left in there to fill the remaining volume.

if you dont agree, put your hand near the gas cap when you unscrew it at the station, you wont feel air blowing against your hand. likewise, you can hold a small piece of paper near the cap as your unscrew it and see it get pulled towards the filler neck.

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