Punkers Slave

there is a small piece of my lower b pillar missing. it almost looks like someone just neatly cut out a rectangular piece of the bottom. i was in the car wash few wks ago and a couple small sprays of water got in, also car has lotta wind noise on highway now, which it never did before. kind of heartbreaking for a lexus, and one that was as tomblike as this before.

any ideas what to do?

Can you post a pic of this? I`m curious .. I`m a frame and body tech and I have never heard of such a thing

Please complete the question.... this could get interesting.

Friends that would not hesitate to climb in your last car (FoRd) with a lit cigarette will not get in yur Lexus with one .. LOL

wow, thats beautiful. How was the cluster replaced??

didnt replace the cluster modified it

I need those sill moldings !!!

BTW; that is one sweet automobile ..

I was pushed off the road on I-40 by a semi truck. I hit the guard rail and luckily, the front reinforcement took most of the hit....but the chassis is bent on the right side. Does anyone know how much it will cost to straighten it out. Will there be problems in the future once its straightened out. I'd like to get an idea before I start calling around. Thanks in advance.

By the way, I'm located in LA, CA in case someone knows of a good shop.

Items neede to give you a bit of an idea;

Approx. speed @ impact

Direct hit (sudden stop) or was it mostly scrubbing against the rail?

Does the vehicle now pull to the right ? this would likely indicate suspension damage..

Is the headlight damaged?

was the impact mostly on the bumper corner or above the bumper?

does the hood open smoothly and still align with the fender edges?

If all thats required is a simple pull and square of front body section, IE: area from the upper cowl to the upper radiator support returned to factory measurments, 4 hrs labour for the pull square would be close

that would not include ANY re/i of nec parts to access pull or clamping points, nor any additional repair required to other parts ( fender, bumper cover, hood, rebar, inner apron or rad support panels) If the frame rails are swayed theres a bit more work involved and if the impact was hard enuff, frame rail side panels and rebar mount flanges could be damaged, with this type of damage the veh. generaly isnt drivable ... is yours drivable?

I saw a vid clip indicating how someone doubled their gas mileage from 17 to 34 mpg, did the usual taking heavy items out of the car/less weight, replaced air filter etc, and added a few ounces of acetone with gas and doubled the gas mileage...for all you to view, heres the vid. let me know what you think

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/524517/doubl...gas_mileage_2x/

Here is an interesting link that is pro acetone. ( plz work link !!) http://www.pureenergysystems.com/news/2005...900069_Acetone/

Yes, both the upper & lower itnake manifolds have to come off.

It's the sensor, or the wiring. Toyota ECU's never fail. (Unless you own a gen1 Prius)

Thanks toysrme, not what i wanted to hear but what I expected.

thanks again

Hi, i have a `check engine' light that comes on after approx. 8 to 10 mins of driving from a cold engine. i have pulled code 55 from the diag. terminal and that indicates a knock sensor.. (bank 1 or 2, lol, i cant remember!) I`m curious if any of the ES300 techs would know whether I have to remove the intake or if the time between engine start-up and the engine light coming on indicates an ECM failure rather than a knock sensor failure. Or any other knock sensor circuit issue that it may point to definitavely. Thanks

My es300 driver window is pretty much done. I can at times, roll window down but only a few inches, and wont go up nor down. Then after 5 minutes it'll do more so but id say about an 1/4 inch either up or down whichever way i choose. If i need to roll it back up it'll take an hour or so pending on how far down i had the window..etc etc..im trying to figure out if it is the regulator or motor, where I can purchase and have it repaired or if its easy to do so myself, rather than take it to lexus and have them charge me like crazy. Im residing in south florida and soon enough i will bake in my own car especially with the humidity...any input helps THANKS!!

My drivers window was doing the same thing, it was the motor.. I removed the two phillips screws that hold the motor casing together and pried the motor open just enuff to shoot some lube/cleaner into it. I lubed the regulator drive cable/casings as well as any and everthing that moved when the glass moved. once the motor screws were re-tightend I kept running the glass up and down. @ first the motor would start and stall, gradually it started to loosen up and now its going great... Its been a cpl weeks and its still working 100%. I`m going to do the same to the passenger side as its a bit sluggish by comparison.

hope this helps : )

what kind of cleaner exactly? windex? lol

I used a generic spray lube that is similar to wd 40. in the motor, be careful tho cuz if u pry it to far apart it will be dificult to realign internally. I then used a silicon based lube on the front window guide and cleaned it as best i could.

Hello,

I am a new owner of a 1997 Lexus ES 300 with 92K on it. I am wondering what kind of mileage I can expect if I baby this car which I will. I also want to know from those with high mileage what did u do as far as service, and fluids(synthetic,regular oil) I want to know as much as possible about this car and I apprecciate your help and input.

JT

255k and change on a 1992 es3oo runs great .no smoke. very slight lifter noise.

My es300 driver window is pretty much done. I can at times, roll window down but only a few inches, and wont go up nor down. Then after 5 minutes it'll do more so but id say about an 1/4 inch either up or down whichever way i choose. If i need to roll it back up it'll take an hour or so pending on how far down i had the window..etc etc..im trying to figure out if it is the regulator or motor, where I can purchase and have it repaired or if its easy to do so myself, rather than take it to lexus and have them charge me like crazy. Im residing in south florida and soon enough i will bake in my own car especially with the humidity...any input helps THANKS!!

My drivers window was doing the same thing, it was the motor.. I removed the two phillips screws that hold the motor casing together and pried the motor open just enuff to shoot some lube/cleaner into it. I lubed the regulator drive cable/casings as well as any and everthing that moved when the glass moved. once the motor screws were re-tightend I kept running the glass up and down. @ first the motor would start and stall, gradually it started to loosen up and now its going great... Its been a cpl weeks and its still working 100%. I`m going to do the same to the passenger side as its a bit sluggish by comparison.

hope this helps : )

Bought 2 weeks ago for $959.59 canadian from an insurance companies stolen recovery auction.. the car is a `92 and has 254000 K. The black leather interior is very good with no leather tears or much noticable wear . trans was replaced @ 185000k and the timing belt was done @ 212000k. this is according to service records in the vehicle.

As an owner of a `89 thunderbird supercoupe, i thought that i had seen it all when it came to difficult coolant refill issues... apparently not.. I now have a 92 es300 that i cannot seem to burp entirely. I have searched the service manual and could not find detailed instruction, i have also searched this forum and have only found the mention of a method sans the details..

If one of the knowledgebale forum users could post the proper method and location of bleeding orifices, i would be very grateful.

Thanks

No it's a non-issue. That doesn't mean its not possible for an O-ring to dry rot & cause your injector to leak.

T Y

No.

Pull the manfiold off as apart of doing a boatlaod of maintenance at one time. Once the upper manifold is off, the fuel rail can unbolt. Remove the injectors. Test them / clean them if you want, and replace the O-rings that seal them.

Thanks for the reply and servicing is first on my cleanup list, but to clarify your answer; no, its not a known issue or no its not a scam, : ) thanks again

Hello all ! great and informative site here. I`m a new owner of a `92 es300 that i purchases thru a sealed bid from an insurance company... . the car was a stolen recovery. The overall condition is good with 242000 kilometers on it.

Before i placed my bid, I was told by the manager of the holding lot where it was towed to that the car ran fine but he noticed that one of the the injectors was leaking a bit of fuel, I havent picked up the car yet, that will be done in a cpl of days. My question to the experts is this; do these engines have a history of the described alleged problem or could the lot mgr. been trying to dissuade me from bidding so as to hopefully get the car himself with less competition? I hope to get an answer in a cpl days cuz our local lexus/toyota dealer would neeed a few days to get the seals for a fix. thanks for any replies.