beachlover

Isn't this a xenon bulb that's very pricey?

I've had to do this twice. I am trying to prevent a third time. Because prevention is better than knowing this "fix". So here's my idea. I got a Lexus key from a junked car and will periodically insert it into the ignition. Theory being that the mechanism will be pushed into different positions from what it always does with the proper key. Curious if anyone thinks this makes sense?

and I was right, the planetary gear was going and about to drop.

More like a smart enough mechanic to tell you what you wanted to hear.

I can assure you that a 17 character VIN does not contain the month of manufacture. I retired from 31 years in the insurance industry and know that a VIN often does not contain enough information to charge appropriate policy premiums for a vehicle. Wikipedia has a page that describes the information a VIN contains.

www.team-bhp.com/advice/find-your-cars-date-manufacture-vin

Furthermore, since I believe the last digits represent the vehicle in sequential order, there probably is info, somewhere, as to which numbers started and ended for the month. Granted, maybe only Lexus knows.

But if members posted VINs and months, we could make approximations ourselves, couldn't we.

I'll start, for the benefit of others that might not still have the original door sticker. Mines Dec 1999

Why don't you look on door jam, it has date of manufactured.

I'm curious however, if anyone could do it through the VIN as isn't it supposed to contain that info? If someone actually posts the month, I will be impressed.

Because one needs to know the month when replacing the rear axle assembly. Apparently there was a switch in the part mid-year. I've tried a few VIN decoders, but month doesn't show, yet supposedly that info is in the VIN. BTW decodethis website was best I found.

Here's my VIN, if anyone can help.

JT6HF10U7Y01067xx (I didn't post the last two digits, as posting a complete VIN is probably a bad idea)

It's not a puzzle. It's three different unrelated problems. Reminds me of the old comedy shows where the toilet flushes when the light is switched on. Impossible, but makes for a laugh.

This business of thinking the blade is only held in by that small screw is where you are going wrong. That screw only holds on the back cover. The blade and other plastic part are factory joined which is very hard to duplicate. Buy a blank on EBay and find a key cutter guy off craigslist. Should be under $10 for the blank, and $25 to $30 for the cut.

Our rx300s are known to throw this code every few months. I just reset it, and go along happily for the next few months.....

Gave up....took it to a guy who was able to spend a few hours tracing wires between the two seats. Low and behold, the heated seats and the seatbelt circuits were tied together and had to be separated.....

Update....Switched the seatbelt latch as suggested...same blinking. I did notice that I could stop the blinking by turning on the drivers heated seat......

I have all the wiring diagrams for the 1999 ....

Does anyone have any of the wiring diagrams for the 2001 and/ or 2000 heated seats/ memory seat circuit/ warning light circuit because it's gotta be an issue there....

Ok $5 Paypal cash to whomever is the first to post the correct answer (Hope that's allowed) because I desperately need the answer soon....I replaced my 2000 RX drivers seat with a seat from a 2001. everything went well, except that the seatbelt warning light continues to blink while I'm driving. So if anyone also did this, or has the wiring diagrams for both the 2000 and 2001 and can tell me what wires to jumper or eliminate.....I do not want to compromise the safety features that are on the 2000, but suspect there is an additional feature on the 2001's that I need to bypass.....By the way all power/heated seats/side air bag....

Is there an easy way to check that the air mix servo is getting the correct voltage for operation? On full hot the air temp is not changed. Thanks!

Sometimes I find when I change the temp. setting I have to then press the "off" button then the "auto" button to get it working right....hope this helps....

Makes some sense. But do you see the other argument? That narrow may push less surface snow for going forward. But it pushes more snow depth wise. Also, for stopping, wouldn't wider, more surface, be better? Think of extremes, if your RX was on tires as narrow as a bicycles. Wouldn't travel in the snow too good now would it? And snowmobiles/tracked vehicles perform well in snow, and that's like the biggest tire you can get (extreme again). I'm not saying that narrow is the wrong answer, I'm just trying to look at all sides of the argument....

OK Toronto, Canada here, snow is gonna be flying soon. So I want to get some snow tires, but I'm hoping to use extra rims I have from a 1999 Olds Aurora. The rims do fit, but the 235 60 R 16 tire touches the strut. So can I use these rims, and what size tires would work? And I've been thinking, with snow, would I want a tire a bit wider to have more surface area on the snow, or would I want a narrower tire to put more weight onto the surface area? Any thoughts, even on just this concept? I'm not at all concerned about the speedometer being off....

Thanx....putting a wood dowel on the rear strut towers worked. Was the passenger bearing. Took me and a friend the whole day to do. Probably can advise everyone that this is a very difficult job.(Maybe that's why I couldn't find any other threads on this job....)

You gotta get the code it's throwing (don't clear it) I suspect a bad coil since the code comes back after 30 seconds (typical of a faulty coil) but you want the code to know which one. And a faulty coil would give the hesitation as mentioned. If all that isn't fruitful, I'd probably reinstall the old ecu, just to see if it acts the same....

Getting a noise from the rear. Sounds like new tires wearing in, especially at over 30mph speed....put on new brake pads, no change. replaced rear end gear oil, no change. Disconnected and removed rear parking brake pads (just to rule out)no change. Looked all around at rear cv joints and bearing areas,all looks ok. Suspect bearing, but sound doesn't seem to be on one side.(and rear bearing looks like it'll take alot to replace, and if I pick the wrong side....) Thinking maybe where the rear drive shaft goes through these type of "carriers". Anybody have any ideas or suggestions?

So what will happen if I tighten these caliper bolts to say 85 ft/lb? Can't imagine that extra tight is a problem since mechanically they don't do anything except hold the caliper in place....

I'm not sure, but if the key is not programmed, I thought it wouldn't even turn the motor over. ..can anyone experiment, or enlighten....

I think you might have to consider a different strategy, like selling off parts. The value of a RX is in the body/frame not the other stuff....In other words, the guy with the good body/frame will just want to buy a good engine from someone.....

When I touch the "panic" button on the remote key, a little red light flashes on the remote. But when I touch either the "lock" or "unlock" buttons there is no flash. Can anyone confirm if they are supposed to flash or not?......Thanx, in advance, to anyone who posts an answer.....

pressing any button should flash the light. i tried on rx and gs.

Thankyou "secretdude" I owe you one.....but it's disenheartening, to say the least, that over 60 others read this post and couldn't take the time to press a few buttons on their remote. You don't even have to go out to your vehicle, for goodness sake. No wonder the Lexus dealers get to take advantage of us, we won't even help each other......

Hello all i have an RX300 from 2001 and i would like to know if anyone could help me find the fuse that controls the lights on the

hand shifter?? I have checked all of the fuses and they all seem okay. Please any help will be appreciated.. Thanks alot

More likely the bulb.....as it doesn't sound like you have any other lights out.

When I touch the "panic" button on the remote key, a little red light flashes on the remote. But when I touch either the "lock" or "unlock" buttons there is no flash. Can anyone confirm if they are supposed to flash or not?......Thanx, in advance, to anyone who posts an answer.....

I'm going to swap the burned out "D" light with the "L", but since I'm already in there, the "2" with the "P" since that one is most likely to go next....