lexushead

I recently took my 94' SC400 to the local mechanic and they did a inspection on my a/c compressor. However they also discovered that my front lower control arm bushings are almost shot on the passengers side and worn on the drivers side. Total repair cost is over $2,000. The reason for this is because they told me that the entire control arm has to be replaced because it is all one unit. This is where it gets confusing. My friends dad had a shop tell him the same thing about his Lincoln Town Car and he just went out and bought bushings and did it himself. My question is can I buy the bushings individually and do it myself or do I really have to replace the entire control arm? I appreciate any help I can get.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SC300-SC400...sspagenameZWDVW

My '92 SC400 has been draining a new battery after only about 3-4 days between drives, so I measured the nominal current draw (ignition off) at about 240 milliamperes. Seems rather high, but I don't know what the normal current should be ... usually it's around 20 to 40 ma for most cars.

I've pulled fuses one by one to track down what's loading the battery and found that the current drops to about 20 ma with the "Radio 01" fuse pulled (in the engine compartment). The radio, CD player, and power antenna are all working fine (with the fuse in place, of course), so I don't know where the problem might be. If I pull the "Radio 02" fuse in the driver's side kick panel, the nominal current draw doesn't change (stays at around 240 ma), so I suspect that the Radio 01 fuse is powering something else that's loading the battery.

Any ideas out there? What should the nominal current draw be for the SC400?

Thanks.

Normal current draw on most cars is .02-.05 amps ----.240 amps is excessive and definitely causing your battery draw .The "radio1" fuse is "hot all the time..It supplies voltage to the radio and amp only..I would isolate the the draw by unplugging your amp first. I would bet thats where your problem is.Have replaced many of them over the years.Come to think of it my SC needs one as well..But that one just sits in my garage..Anyway---Best of luck..

lexushead

Toyota Lexus Factory Cert. Master Tech

ASE/L1 Master

www.toyautoservice.com

You may want to look at the Hydraulic Cooling Fan Pump LEXUS SC400 ( on 92 93 94 models)

I have a 92 with a similar problem. also having to replace the Surpen.tensioner with pulley and (since there are so many parts taken off) replace the water pump. I am having to do this now. Cost >$1000. Check for the replacement parts for C. FAn Pump. My dealer in GA said the shaft is about to be discontinued {wonder how he knows that??} but the spaces and other internals are fairly cheap.

Thanks for the info. After tax season (i'm an accountant & don't have much free time right now), I plan on taking the car to my buddy's brother who just got his own shop. I figure putting $2,000 into the car wouldn't be too bad, because it only cost me 2,000 to buy. If I can fix the starting issue I can probably sell the car for a much higher price. I'm a little cautious though because several people told me to stay away from putting into it. With it being an old car with a lot of technology there is room for many things to go wrong, but I am willing to risk it if I can get another year or two out of the car. The longer I can make it last without spending, the more I can save up for a newer car.

I might be able to help you out if you are willing to drive into Jersey.I just opened shop and specialize in Toyota/Lexus..Worked for them for 22 years--Factory certified master and all that good stuff..I actually own a 93 SC400 as well so I know these cars very well...All work is gauranteed 12 months or 12000 miles..And I only use OEM parts......Give me a call on my business line---973-291-6996

Dave

www.toyautoservice.com

You may want to look at the Hydraulic Cooling Fan Pump LEXUS SC400 ( on 92 93 94 models)

I have a 92 with a similar problem. also having to replace the Surpen.tensioner with pulley and (since there are so many parts taken off) replace the water pump. I am having to do this now. Cost >$1000. Check for the replacement parts for C. FAn Pump. My dealer in GA said the shaft is about to be discontinued {wonder how he knows that??} but the spaces and other internals are fairly cheap.

Thanks for the info. After tax season (i'm an accountant & don't have much free time right now), I plan on taking the car to my buddy's brother who just got his own shop. I figure putting $2,000 into the car wouldn't be too bad, because it only cost me 2,000 to buy. If I can fix the starting issue I can probably sell the car for a much higher price. I'm a little cautious though because several people told me to stay away from putting into it. With it being an old car with a lot of technology there is room for many things to go wrong, but I am willing to risk it if I can get another year or two out of the car. The longer I can make it last without spending, the more I can save up for a newer car.

I might be able to help you out if you are willing to drive into Jersey.I just opened shop and specialize in Toyota/Lexus..Worked for them for 22 years--Factory certified master and all that good stuff..I actually own a 93 SC400 as well so I know these cars very well...All work is gauranteed 12 months or 12000 miles..And I only use OEM parts......Give me a call on my business line---973-291-6996

Dave

www.toyautoservice.com

Hi Folks...

Need some help.

Getting P0135. This indicates is a faulty O2 sensor, specifically, Heater Circuit Malfuntion.

The O2 sensor in question is located at Bank 1 Sensor 1.

Here's the question.

My Lexus manual says it's the sensor located just behind the radiator in the exhaust manifold. (Super easy to get at.)

Others say... This is the O2 sensor that is between the firewall and the engine. (Tough to get at.)

I changed the one by the radiator with a "generic" sensor and after about 25 miles the CEL came back on.

Do you think I changed the correct sensor and if so...are these generic sensors just 'junk?'

Thanks....

You changed the wrong one..And you should use OEM parts for this condition...

Bank 1=the bank 1 cylinder is on

Bank 2=the bank 2 cylinder is on

Regards,

lexushead

ASE/L1 Master

Toyota Lexus Factory Certified Master

www.toyautoservice.com

Hi Folks...

Need some help.

Getting P0135. This indicates is a faulty O2 sensor, specifically, Heater Circuit Malfuntion.

The O2 sensor in question is located at Bank 1 Sensor 1.

Here's the question.

My Lexus manual says it's the sensor located just behind the radiator in the exhaust manifold. (Super easy to get at.)

Others say... This is the O2 sensor that is between the firewall and the engine. (Tough to get at.)

I changed the one by the radiator with a "generic" sensor and after about 25 miles the CEL came back on.

Do you think I changed the correct sensor and if so...are these generic sensors just 'junk?'

Thanks....

You changed the wrong one..

Bank 1=the bank 1 cylinder is on

Bank 2=the bank 2 cylinder is on

Regards,

lexushead

ASE/L1 Master

Toyota Lexus Factory Certified Master

www.toyautoservice.com

You don't need to bench bleed the master. At worst you can do a bench bleed in position on the booster - the master doesn't care where it is.

You may be able to fill the master, open the caliper bleed screw and wait until about half the reservoir gravity feeds to the caliper. It's also possible you'll have to bleed at least the front axle, or all four corners.

I don't know on the Lexus, but normally the primary piston, the one closest to the driver, feeds the front brakes. But squeak some fluid out of both bleeder screws anyways.

I would suggest returning that master and getting one from the dealer..More money I know but I have had SEVERAL faulty masters right out of the box from an auto parts store-thats my 2 cents.......

Best wishes,

lexushead

ASE Master/L1

Toyota/Lexus Factory Certified Master

Hello all, I am new here but I have researched this site before purchasing a '99 RX300 AWD in Aug '07.

Recently, my fiance' had noticed a rough idle and intermittent stumbling at highway speeds. 2 days later the CEL came on and the symptoms had returned. After much research on this site, I thought I had it narrowed down to spark plugs, a bad coil pack, or an O2/air/fuel sensor. I retreived the codes at a local parts store and purchased new plugs and 1 coil pack to get started figuring I would use the extra coil pack to help diagnosis. However when I got home and looked up the codes, I noticed that there were multiple misfires on all cylinders on the same bank and I have a VVC issue. I then thought it was maybe just an air/fuel sensor causing the mayhem and contemplated swapping the 2 pre-cat sensors to see if new codes would reflect the opposite bank. After a bit more research, I see that the P1349 code may be a precurser to a more serious issue.

Would something as simple as a bad coil pack or bad sensor cause misfires in the entire bank? I am hoping it is something simple that I can do myself at minimal cost. Unfortunately, the problem occurs in the bank near the firewall which is a PITA. I understand new sensors are around $200 and that dealers suck your bank account dry so I want to get a better idea of what I am dealing with before I go down that avenue and would appreciate any suggestions or insight.

Details:

1999 RX300 AWD

IAC recently replaced (July 07)

154K miles

P0300

P0301

P0303

P0305

P1349

Thanks in advance for any feedback!

Eric

You may have a bad coolant sensor, but sounds like the sensor for the VVTI valve timing is bad. READ THIS:

http://www.corolland.com/forums/lofiversio...php/t19941.html

If the dealer will do a FREEZE frame on the codes when they happen they can tell you exactly what is happening. Just reading the codes will not tell you.

How often does your fiancee change her oil?? Possible sludge motor?? The passageways for the controller are very small...Might want to pull a valve cover and check oil condition...Just my 2 cents..

Best wishes,

lexushead

ASE Master/L1

Toyota/Lexus Factory Certified Master

Thank you. I will try leaving the driveaxle in place and sliding the transaxle back away from it as you suggested. I don't think there is a snap ring on the passenger side driveaxle, so it should slide right out.

Spalkin is correct..You can pound on that bearing retainer for a week it will never come out..I always just leave it bolted to the block and remove the transaxle..Reinstalling is the difficult part as you don't want to damage the seal..

Best wishes,

lexushead

ASE Master/L1

Toyota/Lexus Factory Certified Master

bump

Adjustable struts???

Lubricant to fix a rattle......??That ES needs front strut mounts..I have replaced hundreds of them..That rattle will return...Gauranteed

Best wishes,

lexushead

ASE Master/L1

Toyota/Lexus Factory Certified Master

So I guess the new mounts that can be bought will not wear prematurely like the ones that came on it from the factory?

I got new front struts, didn't think about mounts too until I saw this.

They are a countermeasure part....The rattle will go away...ES300 and Camry same problem..

Is it easy to fix? Is a new harness needed or can it be fixed easily?

And can this affect the ABS while currently driving?

The ABS light being on indicates there is a malfinction in the system..The ABS system automatically goes into failsafe mode which means it will NOT work..Assuming you do not know how to pull codes for this the easiest way would be to ohm out the front speed sensors..simply unplug the fornt sensors-the connector is up in the fender splash shield--and using an ohmmeter measur the resistence of each sensor--if you have no reading then there is an open circuit..The harness is part of the speed sensor..My suggestion would be to not go back to the person who did your repairs unless you want other repairs that he caused....Hope that helps..

Best wishes,

lexushead

ASE Master/L1

Toyota/Lexus Factory Certified Master

My 1999 ES300 recently had the engine rebuilt due to the sludge problem. Before the rebuild no check engine codes were present. After the rebuild, the check engine light came on within 30 miles of service. I brought it back to the dealer and the dealer pulled these 2 codes P1133 and P1153 (Air/Fuel Bank 1 and 2 Sensor 1 malfuntions). They said the 2 Air/Fuel sensors needed to be replace. I find that hard to believe that these sensors coincidently went bad just after the rebuild. The dealer will not replace them for free or do any further diagnosis. I think they did not put something back together properly or damaged something in the rebuild. Does anyone know how I determine what the real cause of the problem is? Do you have any recommendations of reputable shops in the Alpharetta, GA area that I could take it to that would be able to determine the real cause of the problem?

Man, I hate it when a shop pulls the "coincidence" card! They know you usually have no way of proving conclusively that the new problem that mysteriously and immediately pops up was a result of their work, so they just shrug their shoulders and say, "Gee buddy, what a coincidence...tough luck". It has happened to me on more than one occasion. In my most recent case, I eventually had to get a second shop to fix the problems the first shop caused and so paid double what I should have paid.:chairshot:

I wish you luck...seriously.

Try going to this website http://www.cartalk.com/content/mechx/ They have mechanics for all model cars and these mechanics are mostly reliable. Good Luck

On a related topic, my ES300 was showing the Check and TRAC OFF lights. I took it in and the garage said that 2 Oxygen sensors needed replacement. I had this done (very expensive) but the light still comes on!! Is there some ambiguity with the particular code P1133 and 1153?

Make sure the person doing the repairs used OEM parts..O2 sensors and A/F sensor look identical but work quite differently...

Best wishes,

lexushead

ASE Master/L1

Toyota/Lexus Factory Certified Master

P0133 and P0153 ?

P1133 and P1153 are air fuel ratio sensor malfunction codes..They serve the same purpose as an oxygen sensor but work al ittle differently..Whereas a high voltage reading would indicate a lean air/fuel mixure as opposed to an oygen sensor high voltage which would indicate a rich mixture..Hopefully your dealer attached the Freeze Frame Data retrieved from your ECM when pulling your codes..If you have it or have access to scan tool-- look at the A/F Voltage--A fixed reading of 3.30V indicates the sensor is dead and non-reactive.

These codes are two trip logic which basically means that the ecm has to see the fault 2 times in succession.(2 key cycles)...If the codes have been cleared and the light comes on immediately after you start the car--there is an open or short circuit..

Dealer-sludge motor-check engine light-air/fuel sensors----coincidence--well could be but without knowing the physical data one can only speculate...OK thats my 2 cents in a nutshell.....

Best wishes,

lexushead

ASE Master/L1

Toyota/Lexus Factory Certified Master

bump

Adjustable struts???

Lubricant to fix a rattle......??That ES needs front strut mounts..I have replaced hundreds of them..That rattle will return...Gauranteed

Best wishes,

lexushead

ASE Master/L1

Toyota/Lexus Factory Certified Master

97 es300. I got the front struts replaced and the rear rotors turned and new rear brakes. After I got the car back, the ABS light was on.

The mechanic said it is normal sometimes and should go off in a day or two, He said if it didn't then bring it back.

Is this really normal?

Um no--I would almost gaurantee he broke the harness on one of the front speed sensors during your strut replacement..It amazes me what some "mechanics" will tell their customers...

Best wishes,

lexushead

ASE Master/L1

Toyota/Lexus Factory Certified Master