pete1rayce

tried the suggested routine (open/close doors, lock/unlock 5 times a few times, etc.) and the remote will not operate the doors.

All i had done was replace the battery with a fresh one. is there some way to determine if the remote is still working?

Some one provided a routine like the one above with different number of key on/off repititions: 1 = add, 2=rewrite, 3=confirm, etc. but i don;'t really know what those options do (1 = add is the one I've tried) and am concerned trying the others might stop my other working remote to stop working.

any feedback and help is appreciated.

Thanks for having this type of forum available. hope it helps.

jwa0 made one minor mistake in the instructions. The very last step should be UNLOCK instead of LOCK. This should unlock the doors. These instructions do work, and I have tried them before last year.

This does not work on the Key type on a 1992 ES 300...

Does anyone have the directions for the 92/93 ?

Many thanks :)

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This might help.

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Or this.

Anyone have this info for the " Key Type" on a 1992 Es300 ?

Need to re-program remote

I know this info is here somewhere, as I have done it and seen it before, but I am not finding it. Anyone care to direct me to the posting for the sequence of hoops I need to jump to re program my key to unlock the dorrs again.

It was working until I removed the radio today........

PS....The standard instructions ( below ) found all over the place do not work on a 1992 Model ES300, BUT last December / January, Someone here on this forum sent me the correct ones...I can't find that post.

HELP!!

These instructions, while great for those to whom they apply, do not work for my car.

Sit in the driver's seat and lock all the doors.

Unlock and open the driver's door.

Insert the key into the ignition and remove it (don't turn it...just remove it).

Using the MANUAL lock switch on the driver's door, lock and unlock the door 5 times.

Close the door.

Open the door.

Lock and unlock the driver's door 5 times (I'm almost certain you use the MANUAL lock switch again, but if this sequence fails to work, try again with the power switch).

Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the "ON" position.

Remove the key.

The driver's door will now lock and unlock itself one time.

Press and hold the "LOCK" button on the key fob for at least 1 second.

Close the driver's door.

Open the driver's door.

Press and hold the "LOCK" button on the key fob for at least one second.

Close the driver's door.

Press and hold the "LOCK" button on the key fob. The door will lock.

Press and hold the "LOCK" button on the key fob again. The door will unlock.

You should be all set.

I am having an intermittant problem with my old 92 es. Factory Head unit with functional elec. antena in the trunk.

Music goes in and out like I am too far from the radio signal, "ST" light flashes on an off respectively.

I have TWO theories, and am trying to narrow it down.

1. The tuner in the head unit is slowly dying >>> Need to replace

2. The antenna or antenna wire is bad / loose, and need to replace.

The problem is that BOTH items are pricy, and even used, I don't want to buy the wrong part .

Has anyone met with similar problem or know how to deturmine exact issue?

It was the EGR valve. I was able to get the car to the dealer while it was acting up. Tech tapped the EGR valve and it ran smoothly. They replaced the EGR valve and I have not had any problems since. Total cost: part $213 + $45 labor. This may be a good way to rule out or confirm a bad EGR valve.

Good to know Rick,

I am just thankful for this forum, I read a tidbit here and there and it got me looking in the right direction. My car is running like a top again. By the looks of it, the distributor cap had been cracked for a while, and over time moisture had built up inside causing all sorts of problems. I am not the origial owner of this car, so sometimes I don't know what was maintained and what was not.

Ok.

I have an update......My distributor cap was cracked, the air intake hose ( Black Corrogated One ) was / is cracked ( not sure if I did it, or it was like that) but never the less, I will be fetching these parts and putting it back together and I'll let you know.

check the easy stuff first.

The black acordian-like tubing that goes from the airbox to the intake manifold is prone to hardening due to the heat under the hood. When it becomes hard, it becomes brittle and may crack or get small holes. These openings let more air in than the computer knows about and makes the engine run rough. Check this hose all over.

Other areas to look for would be a dirty throttle body, dirty fuel injectors, and a dirty idle air control valve.

steviej

I too am encountering this problem. I have a 92 ES w/159K. It started yesterday. I thought it was a mis, but it is not harmonic like the same cyl missing each time, it is intermittent, and does not seem to be influenced by anything. It comes and goes and seems to muffle or interrupt ALL or any cylinders.

I can't figure out if it is a fuel system problem or an ignition system problem at this early stage.

Does anyone have any suggestions beyond the advice on the IAC / Black tubing?

Well actually......................." The "J" symbolises the shape of the tyre bead profile. "

For all the info you could ever want about tires / wheels see this add " Tire / Wheel Bible

Thanks for all the responses. I guess I am SOL.....but I do have another related question.

On this model, when you unlock my doors and do stuff like load stuff in the car, it locks itself back up after about 30 seconds.......Unless you put the keys in the ignition. Is there a way to turn this feature OFF ?

My wife accidently locked our baby in the car the other day..... :o

All my key does is lock and unlock the doors. Is it supposed to chirp the horn or flash the lights or something?

Here's another link with more info... Maxx941 is running 18"x7.5" and +38 offset with 225/40/18 and No Rub at all. http://clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=252969

Just more info to guide everyone... Looks like the range of offset is +38 to +45 depending on wheel width and tire size? Looks like it's going to be a bit of experimenting to find the right fit with the right look before putting out the cash for the set.

Anyone else have an ES with aftermarket 17"s or 18"s to post pics of??

I have 2007 OE Avalon Wheels on my 92 ES300. They are 17x7 with a 235/45-17 ( Not listed as an option at www.tires.com

I see also that a 215/45-18 is listed as a plus 3 option, but that seems rather narrow. I bet there are many fitments NOT listed that actually do fit if you do your homework.

I am new to the Lexus forum, new to Lexus Ownership. All of my previous vehicles with remote entry had lights flash and horn / siren chirp.

I just picked up a 92 ES300, and the factory key opens the door locks, but does not seem to chirp the horn or the lights. Is this normal? or is this something I need to program?

If not, what are my options?

Do you guys know of anyone on these forums who is trying to get rid of their IS300 rims? I have been wanting to get the IS300 stock wheels from the 01-05 to put on my 95 ES300, and after the wheels i would see if it would need a drop which seems like it might, i would get some lowering springs. It would be greatly appreciated if you guys can find someone who is trying to get rid of them. :)

I am almost certain that the IS WHeels will NOT fit an ES. The offset is TOO positive.

The offset on an IS is about 50mm. You need 35-40mm on the ES model.

Avalon, Camry or newer ES wheels will work no problem.

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I have a 1992 ES300 with 17x7 new style Avalon / Solara ( same fitment as 2007 ES ) 235/45-17, Factory wheels don't vibrate, but they look great and handles way better than the 15" Stocks

You can fit 18 or 19 inch on there. You just can't increase the overall height of your wheel / tire combination by much. Goto tires.com and there is a calculator to show you what the overall diameter is of your stock, and your proposed size.

You are using a 60 series tire, which is 60 % as tall as wide, mine are 45 series. Roughly 45% of 235 is the sidewall height. You are taking 60% of 205 twice plus your rim diameter to equal your overall diameter.

These cars will take a 225/50-17 or 235-45-17. When you are on the tires.com website, just type in your vehicle info and hit view alternate plus one and plus two sizes. They have done all the testing for you.

Using stock or factory wheels always helps, car manufacturers are much more conservative that aftermarket wheel makers when it comes to offset. The more offset you have say, 45mm from center, the bigger the tire you can run. If the wheel is more like a 30-35mm offset, it will push the wheel outward from the mounting flange by the difference 10-15mm making it much more likely for your tire to rub the fenderlip.

I hope this helps/

It was slipping due to how dirty the fluid was so I drained and installed a new filter. That is when the actual problem showed up.

I have a 92 ES300, when the trans is cold, and I come to a stop, it clunks into the low gear very hard, almost feels like someone hit me from behind.

I went in Sat and had the trans flushed and refilled. They also added some kind of WYNNS additive to help with hard shifting.

Anyone know what can cause that? a sicking valve or something?

I want my car to look tight as hell. I have an ES 300 1992, pearl white and I need to know what medium size wheels I should put on. I'm not going on performance obviously, but rather looks. The only problem is that I don't know anything about wheel dimensions, especially for an old ES like that. Any picture samples would help, too.

Thanks in advance.

I have a 1992 ES300 with 17x7 new style Avalon / Solara ( same fitment as 2007 ES ) 235/45-17, Factory wheels don't vibrate, but they look great and handles way better than the 15" Stocks