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thats for all the help! I think I'm set on an xplod amp and a pioneer shallow depth sub. From what I heard it's supposed to be good. I'm an audiophile but with the tight budget i think this will be perfect for my needs

thanks! i'll start looking

I'm looking for an aftermarket sub that will fit in the hole the oem sub came in. Also, i need a good amp to go with it, any suggestions?

I really don't want to put too much money into it though

Thanks!

As a new 92 SC400 owner without an owners guide I am always discovering new things. There are two switches that have me puzzled.

1) next the the fuel filler and trunk release switches there is a rocker switch that is not marked. What does this one do?

2) On the left side of the steering column by the up/down/in/out switch is a push button marked AUTO. What is this one for? It does not seem to do anything when I push it.

Thanx for the help.

Well the fuel filter switch i have no clue, but the AUTO switch on your steering column is intended for the telescoping wheel. When it is suppressed, it will retract the wheel when the key is removed and will extend the wheel to the previous, user selected setting when the key is inserted. I understand that there is a way to get this working if it is one of the more common problems of the "little blue gear" ( there is a post on how to fix it but i don't have time to find it ).

hope this helps

yeah i saw that, i felt proud

i took it by firestone and they said the battery was fine. Also I've considered a second battery but i want that to be my last resort. And capacitors have come to mind but i have no clue which to get, would a capacitor be able to solve my problem? and whats the average cost of a decent one? thanks

I have some subs in the trunk that i just recently installed with the help of this forum ( thanks by the way). They worked perfectly for about 2 months then the battery started going low. the first time i was able to turn everything in the car off and get it to crank. but a week later same thing happened ( with the subs hooked up) except it gave a low batt. signal on a 50 street ( which means i was going about 56) everything started to dim so i turned off the radio thinking the subs were the reason an then everything lite up normally. when i got home ( which was plenty of road in my opinion for the alternator to get enough charge to the battery) it wouldn't crank. I jumped it and from then on left the 12's disconnected. and since then I've gotten the battery low light to blink occasionally but i just accelerate a little and it disappears the rest of the week

Suggestions? anything i can purchase to give the amp power but not drain the battery? and is this a common problem?

I had the same problem a few weeks ago and I thought it was due to the subs in the back . So I disconnected them and it hasn't happened since. If someone does figure out another problem it would be greatly appreciated,. don't want 2 12"s going to waste

Could it possible be that the line(s) is clogged? or maybe when they replaced it they didnt wire it correctly or forgot something..

i agree with Benji it sounds like something in the line

hey thanks for taking the time to upload these , they help alot! i'll run them when they come in and take some pics later

Hi I just did the stereo in my car. I hooked up two new amps using the stock signal wires, there are the four channels in a single coax cable that go to a plug. So if you run power wires your set. I can go in my trunk and tell you the actual colors if you would like. As far as the stock sub, the amp says 100 watts Max, the sub will probably handle more than that, like 100 watts rms.

Ryan

What colors did you tap into? I'm looking to bypass the oem sub and oem amp and run after market subs w/amp in the trunk. The main one I'm looking for is the on/off toggle wire

It can absolutly be done...I have the stock HU and amp in my car, but I have a dedicated sub amp and a dedicated full-range amp for the speakers in the doors and rear-shelf. I essentially tapped off of the two rear speakers in the back and by using splitters and running all the speakers at 2 ohms, I was able to amp up everything off of those two speakers.

My initial worry was the amps cutting off, or an issue with the stock amp being used in tandem with an aftermarket amp....but nothing ill after over a year.

How did you run the on/off toggle cable for your amps to the main head unit?

thank you so much, i just don't want to waste a perfectly good head unit! when you do could you upload pics of what wires to tap, or a site that gives a walk through, i searched and couldn't seem to find one.

I'm mostly concerned with the on/off toggle wire for the sub amp, i don't want to suck my battery to no end. thats my main concern with the install

I want to keep the existing amp in the car.I was wondering if i could put in subs with their own dedicated amp in the trunk without having to get a new head-unit. kinda stripped for cash. and the amp has its own wired volume controller so i don't need to worry about volume from the head unit.

Pictures would be the greatest help