lexrx3

Ditto pretty much what everyone said about quality Toyota/Lexus parts. I technically totalled my RX 300 (2001) with 32,000 miles on it. Had it repaired and then at 114,000 miles had the timing belt/water pump done. When the mechanic replaced the water pump (which was working fine) he showed me how the water pump bracket was so bent from the accident that the bolts for the new water pump would not fit becasue it was twisted! Though it was bent, it worked fine and never leaked. So yes, go with the piece of mind with the OEM parts. I'm now approaching 122,000 miles now.

My 2002 rx300 has 85k miles and I am looking for advice on what needs to be done at this point. Originally, my intent was to trade into a newer vehicle but with the economy soft, I've decided to keep the car at least one more yr but want to make sure I am keeping up w/ maintenance and reliability. So far, the car has been extremely dependable. Here is what i've done so far.

oil change every 5000 miles, along with tire rotate/balance/alignment

Tranny fluid change (AWD model) at 30k and 60k miles

New belt and brakes front and rear at 75k miles

new starting battery

Lexus pulled valve covers for sludge inspection, found to be clean

That's about it, the car has been great. Areas of concern are when to replace timing belt? Is it time for another tranny fluid change? The car lived in NY with salt roads/snow for 3 yrs so the under carriage and certain engine components show corrosion. I've never had a car w/ salt corrosion so this worries me. Last, tire kingdom told me one of the struts is leaking so all 4 need to be replaced at $900. Car rides fine but not sure if this needs to be done. Other???

I've got a 2001 with 121,000 on it. I too am paranoid about the transmission (knock on wood). I don't drive it hard and I change the transmission fluid about every 20,000 miles with synthetic (Amsoil). Changing the ATF is one of the easiest things to do on this car. Easier than an oil change & no filter. I did my timing belt/water pump at 114,385 miles and it looked pretty good though you shouldn't always go by visual. I've replaced the differential and transfer case with synthetic too so I'd recommend you do that also. I need to change the spark plugs now but I'll pay someone to do it because I understand the back three are difficult. I have an indepoendent mechanic for major mechanical and if absolutely necessary I'll go to the local Toyota dealer. I can't justify the money for a Lexus dealer. I'm in NJ and not really concerned about the salt/corrosion unless theres a major repair because of it. I do love the vehicle and hope to keep driving it for a while longer. At this point, I couldn't get an equal car for the cost of a new transmission so I'll keep it for awhile.

I've had good luck with the K&N filter, model HP-2009. It's a bit longer than the standard, which I hope gives a little bit more filtering, and it has a 1" nut on the end to help get it off with a wrench. Now, if they could just make it easier to get to........

I havn't tried the oversize yet but I'm a little concerned about how close it is to the exhaust (manifold?). So that doesn't appear to be an issue for anyone? I'm tempted to switch to the Fram XG3600.

I have an 01 RX 300 and wanted to if anyone uses an over size oil filter? I know that an over size oil filter does exist. Its longer by almost an inch and half. I think it fits but would like to know if anyone has used a larger oil filter on an RX 300.

I have a 2000 Lexus RX300. When the antenna goes down it makes a grinding noise which is extremely annoying. I've looked online and this doesn't seem like a common problem so I'm not sure what part would fix this issue (mast, motor or possibly something else?). It seems most people have an issue with the antenna not going up or down at all, however mine works fine... just makes that LOUD grinding noise as it gets close to the botton and then even after the antenna is already down the noise continues. Any suggestions would be EXTREMELY helpful!

Its the mast. Act now before it breaks and the repair and cost is practically nothing. If it breaks its a much more time consuming job but not dificult. I just bought the mast from the attached link for $30 includs shipping. Its comes with directions and is very simple as long as the plastic band has not broken. Most likly your antennae will not go up and down if the plastic band breaks inside. If it breaks there is a lot of info in the forum to get to the antennae motor and take out the broken piece but its very simple if you take care of it before it breaks. Heres the link. http://antennamastsrus.com/Lexus/RX%20300/RX%20300%201999-2003.htm

I recently put on Michelins LTX / MS and I like them. I've driven in heavy rain at highway speeds and felt very secure with them. My wife just drove for 45 minutes in this snow storm we're having in New Jersy right now and she said they were great. I wish I had the chance to try them in the snow and probably will tomorrow morning. Anyway, thats my 2 cents about the LTX / MS.

With the given tranny problems these vehicles have had its wise to go to a synthetic. The T IV is absolutely nothing special. I'm sure the Mobil 1 is fine but I've been using Amsoil's Universal ATF for a couple years now and do a drain and fill about every 20,000 miles. An ATF drain and fill on these vehicles is probably the easiest thing you can do. Hopefully it prolongs the life of the tranny. I've just recently went over 100,000 on my 01 RX300 (knock on wood).

I live in Buffalo, NY, where it can get cold and stay cold for long periods of time. Summers can be hot. I bought my vehicle used from a Lexus dealer with 67,000 miles on it and am now at 85,000.

I have been running synthetic oil, but at the next oil change, I am thinking of going all synthetic, i.e., transfer case, dif, engine AND transmission. I have heard that you cannot run synthetic transmission fluid. Is this ture?

Absolutely ok. I have Amsoil ATF (for 20,000 miles now) in my transmission and Mobil 1 75w 90 in my differential for 25,000 miles. Car runs great. Amsoil 0w 30 in the crankcase. Excellent oil especially for your area. Currently have 89,000 miles on my RX 300 2001.

I started my 2001 RX 300 AWD the other morning and after driving 1 1/2 miles the VSC light and check engine light came on. My local mechanic that does most of my work couldn't imediately find the issue. He cleared it but its back on. This will take more time to track down the cause. He says he'll probably be able to find it but it will take time. The dealer will be faster I'm sure but more costly. The car runs fine and nothing seems diferent. Can anyone tell me what may have caused it? Any help is appreciated so that we don't take all day locating the problem. 70,000 miles. Thanks.

I did look for the hose that many had mentioned but everything was connected. I took it to Autozone and the code was P1135 indicating the AF Sensor. I then had it replaced for $200. The lights are off and everything is fine. Thanks for the responses!

I have a 2000 RX300 with 98k on the odo, during this summer it ran like a breeze. However, once winter started to hit (In Alaska with average temp in teens) the engine began to knock severely like the rocker arms were hitting. I changed the oil again (mobil 1 filter and penzoil platinum 5w-30 full synthetic), still running like crap, very sluggish, lost performance, gas mileage info down to 14.4 mpg avg. Today I went through and cleaned the MAF and added Chevron Full Fuel System Cleaner with Techron to help clean the fuel injectors. So far its a little more smooth but still sounds like a deisel engine, this knock does not go away while accelerating but is most noticable during idle in nuetral.

There are no check engine lights on. Tomarrow I am going to clean the IACV and get an oil additive. So far there has been no noticable oil consumption, residue in the oil pan, or oil going through combustion. I think this might be an 02 sensor or Air Fuel Sensor issue but don't know how to check because of the lack of check engine light which I think means lack of error codes.

I would really appreciate any help.

I can't say this will solve your problem but I would be running a synthetic 0W 30 in the engine. I use Amsoil's SSO 0w 30 in my 01 RX 300 with 74,000 on it and it runs great. The SSO is definitely one of the better oils out there but Mobil 1 0W 30 should be fine too. Pennzoil would be fine too but definitely a full synthetic 0W 30. You need all the help you can get in those temps. Keep the Mobil 1 filter, its one of the better ones out there. Amsoil has a very good one too. I'd be careful with any oil additives. I've been in the oil industry for many years and I can't even think of one to recommend trying. May be you've got some bad gas?

http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2007...settlement.html

I found this to be interesting, it says 8 yrs and 120 days......

Good luck

I'm in Hunterdon too and I'm curious where you have your car serviced? I've have an 01 RX 300 with 74,000 on it.

I have only done oil changes, trans. fluid change, and brakes at Midas. Looking @ James Toyota for timing belt. Have 93K on 02 Rx 300.

I've used Fisher Autobody in Flemington for a lot of work on my car and I'm extremely satisfied. Unfortunately body work too and their very good. I will go to them for the timing belt when its due. James is definitely cheaper than a Lexus dealer but Fisher was signifianctly cheaper than James on the repairs I've had done. Airconditioning, full brake job, heating cooling issues and most recently the replacement of an exhaust gasket and air fuel sensor. They do oil changes etc too but I normally do that myself. Anyway, their worth a call unless you feel you must have the timing belt done by a dealer.

http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2007...settlement.html

I found this to be interesting, it says 8 yrs and 120 days......

Good luck

I'm in Hunterdon too and I'm curious where you have your car serviced? I've have an 01 RX 300 with 74,000 on it.

Well...After doing some internet research I found where you can take the EFI fuse out for 30 seconds and then replace it and it will clear all three of these lights. Then once put back in if the lights come back on then it is a service issue. So far, after running the engine for a while, the lights have not come back on.

GIve me some advice on this...I just bought this Lexus for my wife, boy am I getting treated special, and something tells me that the 87 octane gas that I have been putting in it might be setting off the oxygen sensor due to carbon build up. Does this sound right? Should I be using a higer octane?

Thanks, Hal

Nashville

Hal, depending on where you live you may save a couple of dollars by using Premium anyway. I never thought of it this way but due to the better MPG I most definitely get slightly better MPG with Premium versus regular in my 01 RX 300. My wife has a Toyota Highlander and she does too. When you do the math we actually save 2 -3 dollars using premium versus regular. Probably better for your car too. Its worth checking.

01 RX 300 71,000 - I've followed the instructions by others that had the same problem (remove servo, clean contact w/alcohol, redistribute grease) and it worked properly for an hour or two. Turned the car off and restarted later and the same problem occured. Only puts air through the main vents, a little through the floor now but none through the defroster. Is there any other solution other than buying a new servo? Will a new servo work properly and does anyone know if they've solved the problem or is it an overall bad design?

I started my 2001 RX 300 AWD the other morning and after driving 1 1/2 miles the VSC light and check engine light came on. My local mechanic that does most of my work couldn't imediately find the issue. He cleared it but its back on. This will take more time to track down the cause. He says he'll probably be able to find it but it will take time. The dealer will be faster I'm sure but more costly. The car runs fine and nothing seems diferent. Can anyone tell me what may have caused it? Any help is appreciated so that we don't take all day locating the problem. 70,000 miles. Thanks.

Page 4 number 10.

Maintenance__MA__file.pdf

Hey thanks for information! I assume thats from the service manual? What I've learned up to this point is that checking the ATF varies greatly from mfg. to mfg. Interesting how they say let the engine cool for 30 mins if hot. Thanks again!

The warranty is from Lexus / Toyota so I am good as far as coverage in Canada.

I am glad to hear the price is negotiable. They quoted $2G. I may offer $1600.

Above that - I am thinking that the RX330 has a pretty good reputation and I still have 2 yrs left on my power train warranty for the big things.

Time will tell if I make the right decision.

Yes, definitely negotiate the fee. My wife bought the extra Toyota coverage for her Highlander and got $800 off it.

I have always heard that the transmission should be at full operating temperatures, driven so that it uses all gears, including reverse, engine idling, and then left in NEUTRAL, not Park. The reason for that is that Park aligns all the spool valves to allow the fluid to drain back into the pan. Leaving it in Neutral keeps all the lines charged.

If you check the level with the trans in Neutral and then again when it is in Park (but wait a few minutes after it has been placed in Park), you should see a noticable difference.

Are there any Toyota/Lexus technicians here who can give the official party line on checking trans fluid?

What does the owner's manual say?

The owners manual at least for a 2001 RX 300 evidently assumes it doesn't need to be replaced, checked or if checked must be done at the dealer. There is no mention of how to check the ATF in the manual. Unbelievable!

Can someone please tell me how to accurately read my ATF in a 2001 RX 300. The manual will not give information on reading the dipstick. I believe the engine hould be warm and idling but I seem to get readings all over the place when checking the ATF. Am I correct in assuming that the dipstick is to be pushed into the locking position? Right now after the engine is fully warmed up after driving for 45 mins+ the fluid is a half inch above the highest "hot" mark. Should I drain some fluid out. Any help is appreciated.

Just as I was getting ready to change the differential gear oil in my 90 LS, I read that you are suppose to change the gaskets on the plugs when you do this. I have never replaced them in any other cars I have done and the gear oil on this car was (supposidly) changed at a Lexus dealer 4 years ago. I decided to change it and use Mobil 1 75w-90 which I have in stock.

I figured I would go ahead and change it and IF it leaks, I'll just change it again after I get the washers at Toytota.

Suggestions and experiences are welcome.

I have an 01 RX 300. Just had my mechanic change it at 64,000 and used M1 75w 90 too. Didn't touch the gaskets and everything is fine at 67,000.

From what I've read pre 2001 had a lot of tranny problems. You're confirming it too with the tranny replacement. From what I know now I wouldn't advise buying it.

lexrx3:

I have heard that you are not suppose to totally flush the transmission on the RX 300 but you recommend it. Could you fill me in on on this?

Thanks, Hal

wouldnt recommend it on a high mileage car. Do several drain and refills. within a short period of time... much safer.

I've heard people say not to flush and perhaps its true on some vehicles. I have a 2001 RX 300 AWD. At 35,000 I had it flushed by a Toyota dealer. At 50,000 I had it flushed again by the Toyota dealer. The fluid still looks good currently at 67,000 and now I will drain and fill with synthetic in a few days instead of flushing and instead of using Toyota T 1V. The trans has been working fine even after two flushings. I assume the Toyota dealer would not have done it if it was harmful for the trans. I go to Toyota versus Lexus because its cheaper and my car is essentially a fancy expensive Highlander. They are quite familair with the model too. Anyway, I've flushed mine twice and no problems. I am very paranoid about the trans due to the problems I've read about. I believe w/o a doubt that the best fluid for it is a synthetic. I will drain and fill from now on as long as the fluid hasn't degraded at all. Once it begins to degrade, I'd definitely have it flushed. Thats my opinion and experience to date.

I would definitely recommend synthetic ATF. If it calls for Toyota T IV fluid you can use Amsoil Universal ATF. I'm putting it into mine shortly. I would advise having it flushed or flushing yourself if its never been changed.

I have a 01 RX and its great. Has 120K on it and never misses a beat. Drove it all the way from Philadelphia to Miami w/o a issue in the blazing heat of summer with a full load of people and cargo A/C on etc. and still maintained respectable gas mileage. Then on the way back from Miami to my home in Philadelphia, I stopped off at my dealer put on some fresh tires and new oil and drove to Toronto and back again with no issue. Mine is a 4WD fully loaded with all the goodies, nav, HID headlights etc. Its a great car and I plan to keep it until it dies. Lot of people complain that the car is weak and underpowered which is true, the car tips the scales at almost 4 thousand pounds but only has a 3.0L V6. However lexus' typical over engineering counteracts for this. The 3.0L V6 is very smooth and the variable valve timing makes the engine produce 80% of the engines maximum torque at 1600RPM so it provides pretty strong starts from a stand still. Couple that to a low geared 4 speed and acceleration is pretty brisk for a 2 ton SUV that achieves 22mpg and can haul a little bit more then 3 thousand pounds. 0-60 time is around 7.7 which is pretty good for a SUV that size power etc. A typical automatic nissan 350Z does 0-60 in 7 seconds so thats not to shabby.

I'm happy to see someone with a 01 RX with high mileage! I assume you have the original transmission? I have 67 K on my 01 RX and love it but as I said previously I've read to many bad posts about the transmission. Have you taken any precautions with the trans or with anyother aspect of the vehicle?

I have an 01 RX 300 and really like it but I'm extremely paranoid by what I read on this site particularly about the transmission. I have 67,000 on it and flush the ATF every 20,000 for fear of it failing. I change the oil religiously with synthetic (Amsoil 0w 30) and have no fear about a sludge problem. I do not like the heat/AC setup since I've replaced the air direction and it has failed again. Its locked in the main vent position with no defroster or floor air currently. I'll fix it before cool weather sets in. Extremely comfortable but as I said I'm paranoid and feel like the tranny could go any time though it runs fine. I consider it to have very good MPG. 24 around town and 26 on the highway as long as I keep it at 60-65.