AngelsAmongUs

I jacked up the front end and tried to shake wheels but I could feel no wobble.

Is it fairly obvious?

I do not know how this was broken, but do I replace the whole thing? Dealer says $500+.

How about a replacement leather tan sleeve for the ebrake. Available?

Hello. I am about to purchase a 92 sc400 with appx. 53000 miles. Mint condition, one owner. All records. Person used it as an in-town car when they came to visit every so often. I am buying it from a Lexus dealer, and they have reassured me with the condition it is in, its a great deal. I am paying ~ $8000 for the car. Has all options. The dealer did state that the car has a slight pull to the right when the brakes are applied with hard force. It seems to be a bushing/suspension issue. Nothing else. But I guess I wont know till it comes into my hands. (getting it shipped cross country..

My biggest concerns are:

What do you guys have suggestions on as far as:

What I should really look for in reagrds to abuse or items that may need my immediate attention?

Any structure, electornic, or seals, hoses, sensors, etc I should worry about?

And other advice and reccommendations are greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

I agree with others - kinda high $. I paid 6000 for a 95 but 105000 miles. Mint. In addition to fuel pump/alternator watch out for foggy headlamps, dark dash lights (speedometer/tach/fuel).

Will seats from a 97 sc400 work for a 95 sc400? also, is the Tan color the same between those years?

Thanks!

Go to the leather repair link posted on this site. They list the different color shades (my 95SC4 is red w/tan) and it seems they did have different shades for 92-95 and 96, 97, 98 and 99. Might just be marketing though.

Just got back from traveling and I saw your post from November.

How was the kit install/fit etc ?

I am looking to spruce up my 95 SC4 in 2007.

I'm new to this forum and own a 92 SC400. I have a problem with the 12 disk Nakamichi changer accepting the magazine and loading the cd's. I shut the changer door to start the loading of the cd's and it doesn't do anything. I do have radio and everything else. It isn't on its own fuse is it? I doubt it but thats why I'm asking here. Yes I am sticking it in the right way. Any suggestions or leads would be great.

Thanks

I posted on my changer not loading and the fix a couple months ago -

Mine would not load (just an annoying cluncking sound, the light would flash on the changer, the magazine would not go down in the unit.

The disk extractor/loader arm had jammed.

I unjammed the arm, hit the reset/magazine loaded sensor a couple of times and she dropped down like she was supposed to after closing the cover. I let it cycle a couple of time/ hit the reset once more and she works perfectly now. (Skips more than I like but not that bad)

Dealership had quoted something like $600 for the 10 minute fix.

I since have taken it apart to blow it out/clean rollers, etc and it works but is over engineered in my humble opinion.

Hi,

I was wondering, how much would you guys pay for a 95 SC400 with 121K miles that's in "good" condition on hte outside (minor scratches, nicks, etc)....and the interior is clean, with the exception of the worn leather (no tears, just cracking....)? (All maintenance has been performed and the tires are new)

I've already run KBB and such and now I just want to get a more information from you guys...

Thanks

It is entirely up to you. I picked up mine from a wholesaler same year/mileage for 7 grand after was traded into a local dealership. Doing my research on the car I contacted the owner for history (dealership had all maintanace and owner info) but I could not bring myself to ask what $ he got for trade.

My system works fine (all speakers/amp and changer) and I want to add some bottom end.

Can I just add a sub and a dedicated amplifier? :(

The only chirping I have heard in my SC4 is if you hold down one of the stereo buttons (station, skip, etc.) for longer than three seconds there is a very distinct chirp given.

Hope this helps...

Thank you and I could not agree more. It is very gratifying when it works out like this.

Just a heads up on the how it was acting before -

The cartridge would not drop down and the eject button would flash for three seconds when cover was closed. Sometimes when it tried to load the was an awful loud tapping. I think it was the extractor arm.

Nothing would happen when I hit the cd command on dash control.

Hope this saves someone some bucks!!! :)

The only thing wrong with the SC4 I bought from a gentleman was the cd changer was not working and is too expensive to have fixed.

I read up on the subject and saw a lot of discussion on it (rollers, skipping, etc.) and the concensus was it is a piece of junk and throw it out.

I tinkered with mine and after figuring out how it works got it working just fine.

There is a reset button, a probe that that recognizes the cartridge is inserted and an arm that pushes/extracts the discs.

After cleaning rollers, lubing parts and freeing up extractor arm I pushed the silver button that lowers the cartridge, reset the unit and now it works great!

Though the unit is terribly over engineered in my opinion it is functional and I think some dealers/repairman are making a fortune off some Lex owners though I am sure there are times the units are actually blown.

Great fix, Although some owners are not inclined to tinker with electronics. If it is broke then why not look into it ? What is the loss.

The only thing wrong with the SC4 I bought from a gentleman was the cd changer was not working and is too expensive to have fixed.

I read up on the subject and saw a lot of discussion on it (rollers, skipping, etc.) and the concensus was it is a piece of junk and throw it out.

I tinkered with mine and after figuring out how it works got it working just fine.

There is a reset button, a probe that that recognizes the cartridge is inserted and an arm that pushes/extracts the discs.

After cleaning rollers, lubing parts and freeing up extractor arm I pushed the silver button that lowers the cartridge, reset the unit and now it works great!

Though the unit is terribly over engineered in my opinion it is functional and I think some dealers/repairman are making a fortune off some Lex owners though I am sure there are times the units are actually blown.

I accidently switched to power mode after cleaning consol and drove like that for a couple days.

What a difference in performance!!!

Is it ECU/chip settings???

How would I obtain the FC ID#?

I contacted two dearlers:

Dealer #1 - Programmable Master $165 + $45 for programing, Valet key - $70

Dealer #2 - Programmable Master $200 - $270 for programing (2 hours), Valet key - $100

WTF?

My car: 1995 SC 400

I bought my 95 sc4 that came only with one key (button on key to lock/unlock) and I went to the dearship to inquire into spare keys and got the above quotes.

Luckily I was able to track down the previous owner (I always do that for history anyway) and got a spare with no button.

Leaking ps pump taking out the alternator is a very common thing with our sc4's.

I own a '00 SC400 fully loaded w/ a Nakamichi system and I just wanted to know since I blew out my stock subwoofer(middle speaker in the back above the back seats) can I just simply purchase a 12" or 15'' kicker or other miscelleanous brand?? Will the stock Lexus amp be able to push it? If not, what amp would be a perfect fit?? Please help!! :whistles:

Get an amp and enclosure is recommended.

Can anyone tell me how to remove the automatic shift knob. I tried searching and turned up nothing.

I tried to take off the shifter plate but the shift knob has to be removed first.

I had to do the same thing. Luckily I found a post somewhere that had pics.

You need to pull up the cover at the base where the are two screws holding the shift knob.

I'm experiencing a similar issue with my '93 SC4, but only at very low speeds (usually at take-off or gentle acceleration in 1st or 2nd gear - never at high speeds). I'm thinking this may have something to due with my altenator - seeing as how it's been leaked on by my PS pump and I haven't gotten in there to replace it yet.

My hesitation is at low speed also but I never suspected the alt. I think you have something else in addition to alt.

I would have said distributor and cap with wires or plugs being a problem also.

My 95 SC4 does that too. I have not had the time to diagnose, but could be the above or catalytic converter.

Hello all. Let me preface this post by saying that I have already searched and am familiar with the differences in specifications between the 300 and 400.

Let me first explain my motivation for considering an SC, and my thoughts on which version I should be considering. I formerly drove a first gen Q45 and loved that car's power and refinement. I have always adored the early SCs styling and it seems that it is similar if not equal to my Q in terms of performance. I work in advertising for Toyota so I would like something that I can proudly park in front of HQ, but for anyone who as ever worked in the ad business, you know I can't afford a whole lot. Modifications would be kept to a minimum - wheels, suspension, exhaust, and that's about it. Not looking for a hot rod, just a refined looker.

Given the above, I have come to the following conclusions. First, given that these cars have a resale value trend roughly akin to a death spiral, I think it is worth forgoing a 97+ model as they are still commanding a serious premium over the earlier cars, even with similar mileage. Next, the 260 hp cars don't seem to have any real performance edge over the 250 hp cars, so I can't see any real reason to prefer one. Is this a safe assumption? That being said, I think my best bet is to find a '92-'95 400 with low miles (under say 80k). These cars are quite affordable, and I am not aware of any real disadvantage they have compared to the earlier cars.

I test drove both SC3's and 4's for the last year before picking up my 1995 SC4. The 300's were ok but the 400's just felt more solid. Gas mileage does not seem to be that outrageously low.

Just my 2 cents worth.

It seems clear that SCs are damn near bulletproof, and from what I have been able to glean from most of the posts here neither 300 or 400 models seem to be appreciably more prone to issues than the other. Is this a correct assumption? I have read of issues mostly centered around the accessory drive (ps pump, alternator, etc.) - these are repairs I could easily handle so I am not too worried about them. I am assuming they are similarly common in both models? Finally, for more involved maintenance like timing belt changes, can anyone advise the difference in cost between 2JZ and 1UZ cars? Any other issues that should make me think twice before choosing the V8 car?

Sorry for the length of this post but I figured it was best for me to get all my questions out of the way first and hopefully give you all enough info that you could answer them easily. Thanks very much in advance and I'm looking forward to hanging out here on the board.

Looking to get a good paint shop in NOVA/DC/MD for my SC4. No body work needed and I will do minor prep (mirrors flaking, stone chips, etc.)

Any recommendations?

you should treat rust as soon as you can!!! a smaller hole is easier to patch then a big one!

Nip rust in the bud... The sooner the better.

A/C charging is something that is not advisable for the shadetree mechanic - due to legal issues (EPA) and what not. It is not expensive to get a recharge - I'd just take it to a reputable shop.

My other car an acura (beat up integra, but runs like a top) needed ac service last month. Dealer fixed a leak and recharged with R12 for $214.

It was soooo worth it. AC is ice cold now.

Well, you probably need the timing belt changed along with coolant and water pump and drive belts for one. All that cost me 1025 (I had a 20 dollar coupon) dollars from the toyota dealership here in town. Other than that, they probably quoted you for spark plugs, distributors, and plug wires. I did all of that myself and it cost me 150 for the wires at NAPA, 50 for the plugs (at NAPA), and 80 for the distributor caps and rotors. Labor: free as I did it myself. They may also be quoting for transmission fluid change which at the toyota dealer ship it costs 125 dollars (they change the filter too). Prices can add up quickly. I still have to get the tranny fluid changed in mine, but I've done everything else at 205000 miles.

Thanks again Micah. I will go ahead and throw in the new plugs/wires/distributor tonight and let them do the others. That is not too bad.

Hows it going down there? I traveled to NO shortly after Katrina to assess the structural damage with a group of architects. The governor got us into restricted areas that were just wiped out. Really makes you count your blessings.

Thanks again for the info - D

Taking my new toy into the dealership for 100,000 mile service (bought sc4 w/107,000 and all services performed by Lindsay Lexus in VA but not the 100K - Damn!!!).

The Service tech said they will check her out and call in case the bill would be high like 2 grand. I have had 100K services on other cars and I was expecting $2K or so.

What does the 100K service include and how much typically for a dealr to do it?

My car shifts very smoothly in all gears except when upshifting into 3rd gear. The transmission shop I use (I trust them very much) said that it was probably my motor mounts causing the engine to come at rest precisely when the car was shifting into 3rd gear. It also has a slight vibration in park and varies with rpm. Motor mounts are the suspect on my car and I'll replace later as they are not really a priority to me and I wanted things like the brakes and timing belt all replaced first. Hope this helps a little. I have not had mine very long and it is a 1996, but it drives and shifts very smoothly (for the most part), especially for a car with 206000 miles on it.

Thank you Micah. One suggestion was I am running it on economy and not power mode. I'll give that a try this weekend.