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GrnHrnt

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Posts posted by GrnHrnt

  1. The symptoms you describe might indicate a blown head gasket. Repairing a blown head gasket on a 2JZ is a lot cheaper than swapping in a used engine. A good mechanic would check for this before proceding with an engine swap.

    IF you could find a new factory 2JZ engine, it would be cost prohibitive for an 8 year old GS300.

    Used engines are readily available. Don't waste your time looking for a new or used stock all aluminum 2JZ engine.They don't exist. All 2JZ 's have a cast iron block with an aluminum cylinder head.

  2. I have a 1995 SC 300 and the transmission selector lights are not working. The red indicator light works but, the gear selector lights do not work at all? Any Ideas on what i need to do to fix it would be great.

    Inspect 10A "Gauge" fuse on J/B No 1, behind drivers side footwell kick panel. Panel is outboard, next to your ankle when your left foot is on drivers footrest pedal.

  3. Hi guys, I have a 1995 lexus gs300 that has been stored for the past 2 years and now it doesnt start. I have check for fuel, spark and also the timing and everything works but the car just wont start it just keeps turning over. Am I missing something. Thanks ahead for any help.

    Check street side of airfilter housing and plumbing. Favorite place for rodents to set up housekeeping and completely block air flow to engine. They also like to snack on wiring and hoses.

  4. I have replaced thermastat & waterpump in my 94gs300 and still it overheats. No visible leaks. The heater is blowing cold air even when temp. is at normal to hot. Any suggestions woiuld be greatlly appreciated.

    Suggest you solve engine overheating issue before heater blowing cold problem:

    Did engine overheating appear suddenly or has been getting slowly worse for a longer period of time?

    Radiator clogged or its front blocked by leaves/newspaper?

    Radiator is completely filled when you inspect on a COLD engine?

    Coolant is clean with no visible oil?

    Drive belt is right part and it is correctly routed around all pulleys?

    Drive belt is correctly tensioned and not slipping?

    Thermostat is installed for correct flow direction?

  5. Ok, I'll try to explain that the best I can.

    When I go straight ahead, my steering wheel is straight.

    If I turn right, then go straight, my steering wheel is 15° tilted to the right.

    If I make a left turn, then go straight ahead my steering wheel is normal again.

    Alignment has been made, didn't fixed the problem.

    When I turn the steering wheel there is no suspect sound (no "clongs" nor whatsoever).

    If I go straight and release the steering wheel, the car doesn't move from its trajectory...

    Question:

    • Is there something to tight between the steering wheel and the rack and pinions?
    • Is it a problem with rack and pinions?

    Thank you in adevance for your help

    T7

    Steering wheel movement should be smoothly transmitted to rack and pinion input shaft. Check steering column for binding and inspect two "universal" style couplings on steering column.

  6. I have been trying to determine where my SC400 was made. I had read on the forum that the SC400s made in Japan have a governor to limit their speed to 119 mph and that those made in the USA do not have that governor. So other than running my SC400 over the 119 limit, is there a way to determine where the auto was manufactured? Does the VIN provide for that info?

    Thanks for your help.

    All SC300's and SC400's were made in Japan. Non were made in USA.

    If your frame number starts with "0", it came off TMC's Motomachi assembly line. If frame number starts with "1", it came from Kantos Auto Works, Higashi Fuji Plant.

  7. Were all the anti-squeal shims and springs and pad support plates on the calipers when you replaced the pads?

    Did you apply grease to the recommended points on the calipers?

    the shims were there but the springs werent, would this cause it to squeal without breaking?

    Factory manual for 2000 SC3 and 4 shows each front axle brake caliper has two ANTI-SQUEAL SHIMS, two "INNER" ANTI- SQUEAL SHIMS, two ANTI-SQUEAL SPRINGS and four PAD SUPPORT PLATES. Your year could be different, but if factory put parts on caliper and parts are called ANTI-SQUEAL .............., they are there for a good reason. A parts drawing for your model year should show if similar parts needed for your model and how they fit on brake assembly.

    Problem Symptoms Table in same secton of manual lists missing, broken, damaged or incorrectly installed shims and springs as suspect for "Noise from brake". The ANTI-SQUEAL SPRINGS look as though they help hold pads slightly off rotor surface as wheel is turning. Missing springs could seem like dragging brakes? Poor gas mileage? Cause of squealing without braking?

  8. Just a few last questions..

    BTW i do a lot of town and highway driving.

    1)is OEM a manufacturer name? or does is stand for "other equipment manufacturer"? if so who should i look to for pads and rotors. remember i'm looking for best quality lowest price(we're in a recession).

    2)who has a favorite website (and could you post it) where i can get brakes and rotors.

    3) do brakes and rotors need to "match"?

    ALSO, THANK YOU TO ALL WHO HAVE HAVE REPLIED TO MY INITIAL POST. I APPRECIATE YOU ALL TAKING TIME TO PASS IT FORWARD.

    Chriss

    1)OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. Lexus parts will say "Toyota Genuine Parts" on the package.

    2)Several fast,reliable Lexus dealers available online for parts. Realize brake rotors are heavy parts and a good price online may not be so good with extra shipping charges added to the bill. Park Place Lexus Plano often has good OEM prices for many parts. Need to shop around, prices always changing.

    3)You can do limited mix and match with pads and rotors, provided manufacturers claim each part is designed for your application. Must replace parts on a per axle basis. Four new Lexus pads with two new, X brand, aftermarket rotors, all on same axle, is OK.

  9. 2700??? No way. The stock tc's are max 1800 rpm. I would get one atleast 2700-3500 rpm stall speed tc's. And if you really want to be able to launch add a tranny brake!

    Page SS-42,Volume 1,Lexus 2000 Repair Manual RM715U1: Auto Transmission A340E,"Engine Stall Revolution, 2700 rpm".

    Page SS-44,Volume 1,Lexus 2000 Repair Manual RM715U1: Auto Transmission A650E,"Engine Stall Revolution, 2250 rpm".

    These values are also referenced several times in the diagnostics pages (DI-336,DI402) of the same factory manual.

  10. I have a 98 and want to make it like the 99+ models that use the high beams as daytime running lamps. This is purely so people see my car is there and don't crush my fenders; I've had a few close calls.

    I want to do it the right way and not with some Mickey Mouse add on module that flips a relay when the ignition on wire is hot. The OEM Toyota system does it the same way but it does not look like ghetto engineering.

    Anyone know if there is a module somewhere in the electrical system of a 99+ that is plug and play for the older cars?

    To do it the right way,99+ models use four relays for the DRL system. I'm sure they are available from Lexus, but it is NOT plug and play.You will also need the connectors,mounting brackets,a few wire harnesses and maybe a different headlight combination switch on the steering column.The factory wiring diagram for the headlight system would also be useful.

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