Miguel

That would be great, any more infor in the matter will be greatly appreciated, what exacly you have done on the radiator?

It was simply replaced. New fluid, of course. (before the rad replacement, it worked just fine until it was warmed up. Then, only reverse worked properly)

rosie

I will try that asap. Thanks

^^ Radiator also cools the transmission fluid. If her radiator was bad, the fluid would overheat. Don't think I've ever heard of the ATF passage clogging, but that would also cause it.

Let the car idle until warm. Hold the brake & shift the transmission into each gear position for a few seconds. Does it move in reverse without slipping?

Yes Reverse Works just fine, the problem is the rest of the gears D, 2, L nothing happens when I put the it in those gears.

Selenoids stuck ?

I'm sorry but I don't know nothing about mechanic honestly, what is that Selenoids Stuck?

^^ Radiator also cools the transmission fluid. If her radiator was bad, the fluid would overheat. Don't think I've ever heard of the ATF passage clogging, but that would also cause it.

Let the car idle until warm. Hold the brake & shift the transmission into each gear position for a few seconds. Does it move in reverse without slipping?

Yes Reverse Works just fine, the problem is the rest of the gears D, 2, L nothing happens when I put the it in those gears.

God I wouldn't The E52/53 swap costs more than running a fully built race automatic transmission LoL! Besides. For less than the cost f the swap you can just buy a 92-93 factory M/T online. They're only worth 3500-4500 to begin with.

Miguel change/flush the fluid & adjust the kick-down cable if needed. If it will move in reverse without slipping, but slips in drive. Add another quart of fluid to however much is already in there. You may be reading incorrectly. Sometimes they're just a !Removed! to read & you wind up a quart, or two low.

(If you pull the dipstick out & it's foamy. Then you have too much fluid.)

I try it and it didn't work, any other suggestions? Any help will be appreciated.:cries:

I had EXACTLY the same thing happen on my 92 ES (which is how I came to own it) Turns out, it was the radiator and not the trans that was bad. Fortunately, I was able to return the trans I bought and replace the radiator for about $134.00.

rosie

There is an explanation for that but I can't remember it well enough.

That would be great, any more infor in the matter will be greatly appreciated, what exacly you have done on the radiator?

God I wouldn't The E52/53 swap costs more than running a fully built race automatic transmission LoL! Besides. For less than the cost f the swap you can just buy a 92-93 factory M/T online. They're only worth 3500-4500 to begin with.

Miguel change/flush the fluid & adjust the kick-down cable if needed. If it will move in reverse without slipping, but slips in drive. Add another quart of fluid to however much is already in there. You may be reading incorrectly. Sometimes they're just a !Removed! to read & you wind up a quart, or two low.

(If you pull the dipstick out & it's foamy. Then you have too much fluid.)

I try it and it didn't work, any other suggestions? Any help will be appreciated. :cries:

God I wouldn't The E52/53 swap costs more than running a fully built race automatic transmission LoL! Besides. For less than the cost f the swap you can just buy a 92-93 factory M/T online. They're only worth 3500-4500 to begin with.

Miguel change/flush the fluid & adjust the kick-down cable if needed. If it will move in reverse without slipping, but slips in drive. Add another quart of fluid to however much is already in there. You may be reading incorrectly. Sometimes they're just a !Removed! to read & you wind up a quart, or two low.

(If you pull the dipstick out & it's foamy. Then you have too much fluid.)

I will try the Flush, today, 5speed sound very expensive don't get me wrong I love my car but right now i'm in pretty bad shape money wise so man i'm looking for the cheapest way to get my car back. Thanks

My Transmission, I think is dead I have check the Fluid level and it looks ok the color looks Normal ( I think ) I will like to know what options you guys think I have, I don't want to rebuild the Trans, mainly because of the prices been so crazy I don't have the type of money right now what could I try as of right now the trans only works on reverse, but other than that nothing. :cries:

Thanks for your help guys.

The passanger axle. It goes through the middle of the mount... <_< :chairshot:

I'm guessing that they had the brilliant idea. <Insert JDM speak> "Wait! I've got it! We'll rock the engine back ANOTHER 10* Causing all the rear gaskets to prematurely fail in an attempt to lower the engine height!" Then a month later somebody says, "Ummmmmm, guys... We don't have any room for a rear engine mount anymore..." & all the engineers give each other a wtf look.

Yep! "This classic wtf engineering moment has been brought to you by Doritos!"

LOL man, I will get it replace either tomorrow or monday morning, I was told by the mechanic it will be a 35.00$ dollar job.

I was told by a mechanic that my rear engine mount needs to be replace, Went to autozone order it for 33.00$, and will have it done by monday afternoon around 35.00$ for labor........I was checking all my mounts and the dogbone looks fairly easy to DIY so does the Front mount right by my oil filter, I was told that the rear mount is easy to get from undeneath the vehicle, by removing the axel after that is fairly easy...

which one is the rear mount ? is it in the images I posted ? I am confused because different people call the mounts different things, where is it located ?

The best way to check if your rear mount is bad, is to get somebody that can drive a good, and carefull driver to put the car in reverse, and to push the gas you will see if it needs to be replace..

I was told by a mechanic that my rear engine mount needs to be replace, Went to autozone order it for 33.00$, and will have it done by monday afternoon around 35.00$ for labor........I was checking all my mounts and the dogbone looks fairly easy to DIY so does the Front mount right by my oil filter, I was told that the rear mount is easy to get from undeneath the vehicle, by removing the axel after that is fairly easy...

oh yea, replaced the sway bar end links & bushings. Got the end links (both) off ebay cheaper than one priced high @ stealership. Had to get the bushings @ stealership though. 45 minutes, drive test & no more noise!

Great :D

My fluid looks really good but, I only feel a bit of a kick went I put it on R nothing more.

Great, I'm happy for you,

I just had one of my 02 sensors replaced this morning so that I could pass the inspection here.

Here's a list of my expenses which I think are pretty good! I think he charged $45 for the installation because I used the universal sensor which required some wire splicing and added time. What do you guys think?

$35.00 - Diagnostic

$80.00 - Oxygen Sensor

$65.00 - Sensor Installation

$45.00 - Running Inspection

$225 Total.

Man I pay way less than you did today, around 105+ less :P I pay 105.00 for the sensor, and 15.00 for labor Check engine light off Priceless......

Keep me posted, my transmittion shifts ok but when I go from park to reverse, and from Drive to reverse it shakes kind of hard not that hard but I can feel it but and I put the car on drive I can't feel a thing.....Do you guys think I need a flush?

If bushins is what you need here is a link for a very inexpesive pair of them http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...994&catalogid=1

Good luck also check this topic out...

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=27856

Very good info, I got from the people here..

Yes RP those are the one, I will take at look down there tomorrow and see, how i could tackel this.

Dude those bushings are sooooo easy to replace.

If you can turn a wrench, you can change them.

Good Luck.

Yeah man I did replace them my self very easy........to replace, and the sound is gone

Yes RP those are the one, I will take at look down there tomorrow and see, how i could tackel this.

The one holding the stabilizer bar right? on the rear.

I found them at a lexus dealer for 22.00$ for two of them I will get a mechanic to do the job but just for the sake of conversation, is it difficult to do it by your self.? hey P thanks for the site already bookmark it for future reference.....

Thanks a lot Dude..

Hey PPrindl you're right, the one bushing of the 4 you mention is what is making the sound. Such little thing making this big sound crazy. Now the problem is where could I find this bushings I don't need the bar just the bushings and dealers price are a bit too high.

Thanks a lot for your help.

Did you check to find out what could be the problem?

I checked everything when I did the struts, all the control arms and control arm bushings are good. The 4 control arms bolt to a large sub-frame kind of thing thats held in by 4 bushing assemblies, that could be the problem. Those 8 subframe bushings cost $200. This is what they redesigned in later models.

My advice is to replace the strut cartridges, our 94's don't need wheel allignment afterwards and they are cheap. I bought KYB units for like $36 each. The upper strut mounts were $75 each from Lexus and weren't worn out, so I advise not to replace them unless they are bad.

I think I can live with the noise, it rides much better with the new struts now. I don't want to spend too much money on such an old car. I just replaced the radiator and hoses too.

Thanks for the Advice, I will have a local very good mechanic take a look a it, and I will tell him what to look for so he dosen't get any ideas.....thanks alot

Did you check to find out what could be the problem?

Well that is my dilema, I don't know much about cars, well that is obious but when you go over a bump or somenthing simlar it sound as if you have somenthing on your trunk, like a groceries rolling around after a sharp turn that is the exact feeling and sound. I honestly don't know what I should expend the money on everyone I have ask is just trying to rip me off don't know what to do ;)

Thanks for your help

Everytime I go over a bump I hear a knocking noise coming out of the rear of the vehicle, I've been doing alot of research on this subject here, over the net, and visiting some some services providers like sears, pep boy ect. I will like to hear the opinion from someone else not tying to charge 200+ per strut, plus 200+ of labor what do you guys think?

Thanks in Advance.

Is there any other way to find the codes, or to find out why the Check engine light is on, I honestly don't want to give pep boys 60.00$+ just to check the code....please any help will be appreciated. :cries: