Jeffrey Davis

SOLD

Thanks,

New in box, still sealed in factory foil wrapping. $200 shipped to lower 48. Fits 2001 LS 430 and others.

Please contact me via email if interested: jpdavis@earthlink.net

Thanks,

Jeff

Thanks for the one response.

Jeff

hello, nc yes still here the old LS already has like 220,000 miles still going strong, good to hear from you, buddy, take care

Yesterday I stopped by my local Lexus dealer to ask about a creaking noise when going over a bump. They diagnosed it as the lower control arm bushings and said it would cost $1400 to replace both lower control arms (parts and 5 hr labor). They also lubricated the bushings and the noise stopped.

The service writer told me that the bushings couldn't be replaced and the whole arm had to be changed. When I do a google search I find lower control arm bushings available for about $65 - $70.

My questions:

Are these the same thing?

Will it take 5 hours to replace them? (I'm guessing they aren't easy to replace.)

Since the car only has 82k how long can I go on lubing them?

Thanks,

Jeff

I've got 260k on my 98 LS 400. For the last 200K I've used full synthetic at 7500 mile intervals. Either Valvoline or Mobile 1. I drive 50k/yr, all on hwy. I can't see that it burns any oil at all.

Jeff

The owner's manual says to change the spark plugs at 90,000 miles/72 months. Just so happens I have a 10 year old LS400 with only 63,000 miles on it, so have never changed the plugs. Out of curiosity, I pulled one of the plugs (original; Denso Iridium Long Life) today to have a look. Gap is perfect, just a little light brown over the upper portion of the ceramic....in other words, looks perfect....especially for 10 years and 63,000 miles! I can't see how time alone can deteriorate a plug........but then again, I certainly don't know everything. And, it seems kind of weird since I have never had plugs in for 10 years in any motors I have ever owned. Any reason to change good looking plugs just cuz they've been in for 10 years? I venture to guess the answer is "no", but I am allowing my anal retentive side to ask......

I've got 250,000 miles on my '98 LS400. I changed the plugs at 90K but not since. I'm getting 27+ mpg on the highway so I'm leaving well enough alone.

Jeff

I'd just do the drain and fill technique. It's your safest option.

What is the difference between draining and filling and pumping and filling?

Jeff

My '98 LS 400 has 250,000 miles and the transmission fluid has been changed every 30k. My local oil change place has stopped using the T-Tech machine and is now just pumping it out through the filler spout. The Lexus dealers want $250 for a flush.

I have several peristaltic pumps that will easily pump transmission fluid. I'm thinking about buying a bunch of T-IV from the Toyota dealer, pumping out 2-3 quarts and refilling it with new every couple of months. Apart from the fact that I'll be working off "purification by dilution" are there any problems with this method?

I've looked at the video: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/transmission/ but don't want to get under the car - if my pump method will work.

Thanks,

Jeff

250,000 miles on my '98 LS 400. Has only had reg. gas since 80k. 27 mpg on hwy. Maint performed at factory intervals. Timing belt, tranny, coolant, etc. Valvoline synthetic every 7500 miles ( I only drive on highways). Only now needs first non-scheduled fix: Rear upper control arm. The bushing is squeaking.

Great car.

Jeff

I finally replaced my locking lugnuts on my 98 LS400 with normal ones. If somebody wants my old locking lugnuts and tool they are welcome to them.

I imagine everybody with a Lexus has these but if you want them email me : jpdavis423@myway.com

I want $3.00 to cover shipping. They are heavy!

I'll be away until Jan. 12 so let me know by then if you are interested.

Jeff

wanted to ask other owners if they are using any type synthetic oil in their Lexus and if they are exceeding the 5K oil change recommendation,, noticed the oil filter on my 2005 LS430 looks rather small when compared to past cars,,

have owned Mercedes prior and they recommend synthetic as well as a longer miles before the oil changes,,

appreciate your comments,,

I do almost 100% highway driving and I use the 7500 mile service interval in my 98 LS400. I've been using Valvoline full synthetic. It runs fine and I can't see any oil loss between changes. I'm currently at 136K miles. With my driving it gets changed about every 6 weeks.

Jeff

Anybody recommend a salvage yard. I need a passenger door ecu for 98 LS400.

Jeff

Hi kmax;

No luck finding an independent specialist in St. Louis yet.

I hear there's an indy Toyota guy on the Hill, but haven't

found them yet to see if they handle Lexus as well.

At this point, I'm a combo of DIY and my regular mechanic,

with a run to Gravois Radiator for my A/C in 2005...

When/if I find one, I'll post it for the other St. Louis area

members.

Paul

I realize this isn't south St. Louis but I have my 98 LS 400 worked on by AM Clark in Webster Groves, 961-7500. They did the timing belt, water pump, etc. for much less than the dealer.

Jeff

The front "parking" lights on my similar 00 LS are the small clear bulbs you can see in cutouts in the reflectors of the outside main headlights. On the driver side, the cutout is at about the 10 o'clock position.

The replacement guide on www.sylvania.com indicates that the bulb number for the "Parking light" is 2825.

These low wattage clear lights are called "city lights" in Europe since that is all that used to be allowed at night the cental parts of some cities.

Thanks!, I found the lights. I'll check the bulbs but I'm afraid that it is more than that because both are out.

This evening I was parked in front of a plate glass window and noticed that I had no lights on in the front when I turned the parking lights on. There were lights on in the rear and all the other lights in the front are working, head upper and lower, turn and fog but no parking lights.

My question is which of the lights are the parking lights in the front and what fuse controls them?

The owners manual shows them as being part of the headlamp cluster but I only see the 2 headlamps.

Is it one of the headlamps but a lower wattage?

Or is it the turn signal although it only has 1 filament?

If it has any bearing on the matter I replaced the left lower headlamp yesterday, but I really don't know if the parking lights were working before then.

Thanks in advance,

Jeff

:) Today I had the front struts replaced on my 98 LS 400. All seemed well until I drove over some bumps and then I noticed a clunking sound from the right front. The shop was closed so I looked at the tops of the struts and decided to check the torque. The 3 bolts attaching the top plate to the body were fine on each strut. The left strut suspension support center nut was torqued correctly but the right strut suspension support center nut (one with the noise) was loose and when I tried to tighten it it just spun the rod. I noticed that it was screwed down about 3 threads less than the left.

My question is could this be causing my problem and how do I fix it? I wonder if there is a bad thread on either the nut or rod?

All help is appreciated and the sooner the better - if possible I need to drive this car about 600 miles next Monday and would like to fix it tomorrow.

Thanks in advance,

Jeff

OEM from the dealer ONLY, unless you want to change the feel of the ride. The OEM are made by KYB, however you might also find aftermarket KYB, they’re not the same part. The aftermarket ones are stiffer (do a search this is a common surprise for many). Only the ones from the dealer will give you back the original ride. FYI I paid $83 each for the oem from this site http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...m?siteid=213808

Thanks for that information. I checked their website on Monday and got them for $76 and change. I also found an independent shop that will install them both for $100, so I think I'll go that way.

I just did this on my 98 last week. First you don’t need to remove the steering outer tie rod, unlike what the manual tells you. Second, only remove the upper control arm ball joint. You use a ball joint remover (I used the small fixed size one) for that just as bicol-ini noted, from Autozone, NAPA, or any other store. If you have done this before then this should be straight forward for you. It took me 3 hours to do both sides using all manual tools and spring compressor. I highly recommend you replace the isolator boot (the one the spring seats against) when doing this job. It will be badly compressed and needs replacement, plus it is known to have caused pop noises when the spring hits the strut mount.

Thanks very much. I'll do it next weekend. I can't get the parts yet today.

Do you have any suggestions as to struts? I can get Monroe's locally for $102.00 ea. or KYB's via the internet for $82.00 ea.

Jeff

use a pitman arm puller or a tie rod puller, rent it free from autozone,

Is this a fixed sized puller or do I need to get one with adjustable jaws?

This weekend I wanted to replace the front struts on my 98 LS 400. It has 127k and it seemed like a good time. I have replaced struts in the past and have good OTC spring compressor. Since the mechanic wanted 3 hrs. labor and marked up the struts by about $100 it seemed like a good way to kill time on Saturday and save about $300.

I looked this up in the service manual and they had a procedure that was different from what I had done in the past (on other cars): Disconnecting the steering knuckle from the upper ball joint using a special service tool SST # 09610-20012.

MY questions are, do I need to disconnect the steering knuckle and if so do I need the special service tool?

Thanks in advance,

Jeff

I just bought a 98 LS 400 with 89,500 K. I plan to have the belt and associated parts replaced next Friday. However I need to make a 1300 mile trip this week. Do I drive it or my "backup' car?

I broke down and downloaded the manual. There is a cable adjuster under the car that uses a bracket and two nuts to adjust the cable.

I think that might have been my thread, my e-brake was set too tightly and the e-pads were constantly rubbing on the inside of the rotor. If you need to manually adjust them "assuming you tried SK's method first and it didn't work" then this is what you do:

You can probably get to these two adjuster spin screws if you have the car up in the air and you're underneath. If not, you'll have to take off the rear wheel and rotors. But let's try it with the wheels on and up in the air:

Look at the back side of the rear rotor, at the bottom of the rotror. You should see a metal spindle screw that looks like a mini-bicycle gear sprocket. This is the adjusting spindle. I think if you turn it clock-wise, it will tighten the ebrake settings. I could be wrong on the clockwise though, just look at the threading and you can tell. Now, becareful! It doesn't take much! You can over due it with just two full rotations either way. Each rear wheel has it's own setting, so you have to do both. Try it with the car in the air before messing with taking everything apart first, as it can be a dirty, pain in the !Removed! job.

Is there a cable adjuster for the parking brake and if so where is it located?

On my Avalon there was an adjustment port that you got to by unscrewing a panel in the bottom of the center console, but it's probably not that easy on the LS.

Thanks in advance,

Jeff

Well now a new issue has arised. I noticed this when I was coming to work this morning. I was on the highway and at around 75 / 80 mph the car started to buck, no knocking noise or any noise at all but just like lose of power then it was fine after 85, and be4 75.... any ideas?

This may not be directly applicable but i had a similar problem with a 93 Q45 and it turned out to be the Mass Airflow Sensor. I think it is the proper name, it is the sensor in the line between the air filter and the manifold.

Jeff