heffergm

I have used up my first free service at the dealer, Now that I am reaching 10K miles. I call up one dealer and they tell me i need to replace a cabin filter and want to charge 99 oil change plus 60 for filter (almost 200 with taxes). I call up another and its 125 plus tax and they tell me a tire rotation. I don't believe I can get a tire rotation. Do dealers actually know what's even written in the handbook. Also, I do not want to pay any of those prices for a filter and oil change.

so, this is my question... Where is the best place to get a quality oil change that I can be happy with?

Jiffy Lube? (scandals)

Toyota Dealer ( do they work on lexus cars?, i read this in some forum before )

Just a local Lube place?

Please help.

For starters:

1) Don't tell a dealer "I want the 10k mile service", because in dealer speak, that means "rape me hard for whatever you think you can get away with charging me". Tell them, "I want the oil changed." End of story. If they do anything else without your permission, you're not required to pay them for it by law.

2) The place that quoted you $60 for an oil filter deserves a call to the better business bureau. The filter costs $12 tops. You can get them online from a variety of places, including the parts desk at any dealer, where I can guarantee you they won't cost $60.

3) Please stay away from Jiffy Lube.

4) Did I mention please stay away from Jiffy Lube?

5) I change my own oil. It costs me $60 total, and that includes filter and 7 quarts of synthetic oil. Paying any more than that at a dealer for a non-synthetic oil change is insane. Seven quarts of over the counter dino oil costs about $10, plus $12 for the filter, you're looking at $25 in parts and 30 minutes of time. At the current auto labor rate, that means you really shouldn't be paying more than$75-$100 total (which I still think is a huge ripoff, but if you don't have the time/knowledge/skill/whatever to do it yourself, then what choice do you have).

The interior grab handles are in no way safety devices. Whether or not they come off in the event of an accident should make zero difference in anyone's safety. Whether or not they have their seatbelt on will.

1. Use a little common sense. Don't let your child play with what amounts to the key to the car. Keep it in a pocket or some other safe place, much like you'd do with your keys in car without keyless start. But to answer the question, I highly doubt that a car manufacturer would design a car that would shut itself off while already in motion. The potential for lawsuits in the US would be astronomical.

2. Yes, there are instruction in the owners manual. You just hold the fob up to the start button. It continues to transmit even with a depleted battery.

Alright, so I am thinking of buying an IS350. But I have a few questions that needs to be cleared.

1.) Possible Scenario: While your car is in movement, your child decides to play with the radio wireless key remote, and suddenly throws it out the door. Possible Scenario #2: While your car is in movement, your remote battery is depleted. Does the car's engine suddenly turn off automatically because the key is not present within the car's range or the battery of the remote is depleted?

2.) If your remote battery is depleted, and you use the mechanical key--will you be able to turn on the engine with the mechanical key? Where is the mechanical keyhole located on the door and on the inside compartment?

I think that is it. I know the questions are...stupid to ask. But I just want to be clear. I tried finding it in the owner's manuel located in the forums, but I can't seem to find the answers to my questions.

_G. :)

Did you read Patrick Bedard's column in C&D this month? He places the responsibility for gas mileage performance on the feet of the driver. Obviously, the vehicle has some inherent gas mileage limitations. Howerver, the the driver interactions with the "go" and "stop" pedals will have a significant influence on the final result.

Bottom line, your driving style may have as much impact on your realized mileage as any other pertinent factor. (Oh well, there goes *my* gas mileage!) :)

Craig

No offense to Bedard, but no kidding. It truly frightens me how little the average motorist knows about what's going on in and around his vehicle.

Ugh. I drove one today. It's a slushbox alright. Calling it that doesn't have anything to do with how fast it accelerates. It has to do with how it changes gears, most noteably on downshifts.

Unfortunately that tranny might be a deal breaker for me. If they had something like VW's DSG setup, or even BMW's SMG, I could probably deal with and even enjoy it.

But sticking paddles on a normal auto does not a good transmission make.

That being said, like you mentioned, I can see how it adds to the experience for people who drive autos all the time. The ability to hold a gear through the corner is handy, but those downshifts are horrid.

Ok, fair enough. I guess I'd also like to hear some subjective opinions on how "good" it is. Coming from a long list of manual transmissions, I'm a little concerned it's going to be the same kind of garbage slushbox you find in most cars.

I'm in the market for an IS350, but I had some questions about the auto transmission.

Basically, I'm trying to figure out how much manual control I'll actual have.

Let's assume I've shifted into 'S 6' mode (meaning all the gear are available is my understanding), and I'm cruising at 70mph:

1) if I bury the accelerator into the mat, will the car downshift on its own?

2) if I downshift manually, will the car remain in that gear until I tell it otherwise?

What I'm trying to figure out is if, when in 'S' mode, the trans will still do whatever it wants, or if it'll actually listen to what I'm trying to tell it.

Thanks for any help,

-Grant