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backyard_famer

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Posts posted by backyard_famer

  1. As Steviej recommends, get the diagnostic codes. I recently had the same situation with the CEL and Trac Off illuminated. Checked the code at Auto Zone (they'll do it for free) and the code was P1135 which suggested the A/F Sensor in bank 1 sensor 1. Essentially an O2 sensor ahead of the one of the catylitic converters. Also found out the expected life of the sensors is about 100k (you have 85k, so it might be the charcoal cannister). Check my posts on indicator lights and you track my journey. Good Luck!

    backyard_farmer

    sorry, but the string is titled diagnostic lights and not indicator lights, last entry on October 12th.

    backyard farmer

  2. Sitting in my Lexus dealership customer lounge. They are high speed wireless. Quoted repair for a P1135 error code, parts and labor, $380

    Typically I would get a "loaner" Lexus while the work is being done, but this time, they assured me I would be out in about an hour. Dealership is top notch, they have always treated me well. Service manager winked at me and asked, when are you going to just by service parts and do your own repair.......

    While cruising the showroom, found my next car......2007 IS350

    backyard farmer

  3. When I was at Advance Auto, the Bosch Sensor (part 15733) had a sale price of $83. You had to cut the wires to fit, (of course the wire colors were different as well) but the connections appeared to be the same. Risk I suppose would be the construction of the sensor, if the same metals were used, etc., leading to possibly a slight change in the air/fuel mixture rate at various exhaust temperatures? Your comment about expensive catalytic converter bill is valid. Probably just "scared" myself out of using a non OEM component. I also saw at Advance Auto (on the screen as the clerk was checking to see if the parts were actually in inventory that typical life on the sensors is 100K miles. Makes sense as my car is over 100K miles. Next question is......what about bank 2, sensor 1, a P1155 DTC? As only one code came up on the Auto Zone scan, P1135, should be "safe" and only have to replace one. It appears a P1155 will be occuring based on the 100K life expectancy. Thanks for helping me along the diagnostic path of the ES300. The FSM I was able to download has helped immensely.

    I'll let you know how it turns out.

    backyard farmer.

  4. When looking at the Shop Manual I see there are two A/F sensors.

    One in the front and one in the rear. Both ahead of the cat converter. One in the front is a piece of cake to get to. The one in the rear, as you described is tight. Did your price of $226 include two sensors?

    The dealer told me $149 labor, I presume that would cover both sensors. How long can I drive with the A/F sensor light on? Is there the possibility for fouling the plugs? Poor fuel mileage?

    Thanks!

  5. There are hundreds of codes that anyone or number of sensors may have sent to the ECU that triggered the combination of the two indicator lights. In general the two lights on together mean the car is in safety mode or as we like to call it: "limp" mode.

    You won't know what the cause(s) is until you get the codes currently in the ECU read. Autozone does this for free. Have them pull the trouble codes then post them up here.

    steviej

    Thanks for the reply!

    I did stop at Auto Zone on my way home from work tonight!

    The lone code that pulled was P1135. Air/Fuel Heater Sensor Malfunction.

    Nothing was pulled concerning the Trac Off light.

    The guy from Auto Zone (college friend of my son) said it still may be an Oxygen sensor, so I looked at the service part costs at Auto Zone (Bosch parts, probably OEM) and was somewhat shocked. $200 to $250 depending on where the sensor was located. How difficult is it to install the sensor?

    backyard farmer.

  6. Jeanette,

    Look back through your records at the 15,000, 30,000, 45000, 60000 etc maintenances and look for transmission services, it should read something like "replace transmission fluid" included in those services. If you decide to let Rockville look at it, ask for Tony Rappatoni and tell him Steve Withrow referred you to him, he'll take care of you.

    If the transmission needs to be replaced, and you can't get Lexus to cover any of the cost, look around at getting it done at a transmission shop, you"ll save a lot of money.

    I have a '01 ES 300 and in checking my OM, the service interval for transmission fluid is not listed for "normal" service. The diff oil is recommended for change at 15,000 mile intervals if you are towing a trailer, camper or have a car top carrier. Only time transmission oil is listed for change is at 60,000 miles (and 120,000 miles) if you are operating your vehicle while towing a trailer, camper, or using a car top carrier. Also notice on the transmission dipstick the small label just above the o ring seal. No requirement to change transmission oil under normal operating conditions. Anyway, it is always good to check the clarity of the transmission oil and to smell it. Should be pink, clear and not smell burnt. I have heard from a good friend who has owned Hondas into the 250,000 mile range about periodic "partial" drain of transmission oil and then an equal partial fill with new transmission oil, but never fully changing the oil totally at the same time.

    backyard farmer

  7. Heading for the store tonight and both the check engine light and trac off light stayed on after I started the car. Went to the owners manual. Trac Off sounds like an electronic transmission controller problem. Check Engine may be related as the OM also refers to possible transmission issues. Anyone have any background on this?

    Thanks!

    backyard_farmer

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