mark.blend

does your cruise control work, is your air bag light on. If it doesnt and it is then you have a bad clock spring but if those are ok then you prob have a broken wire somewhere. My horn doesnt work/air bag light is on/and cruise control doesnt work either so I'm assuming there may be a common prob with the clock springs.

Thanks for the reply:

My cruise works and no lights are on, all else works, except horn? My understanding is the clock spring has a retract button on the ring that may be stuck in the retruct position and not allowing the ground path with ring. I'm wondering if the path is only for the horn or other as you mentioned? A solution would be follow the steering remove procedure (air bag caution), pull the ring and clean/check the button - replace ring if broke. A couples mechanics said this usually fixes the problem?

mark

Any experience with the contact mechanism under the steering pad? My horn is not working upon pad press: I have replaced relay, checked fuse and tested horn.

I'm sure how to fix or clean contact switch under steering pad??

please advise

thanks, mark/denver

95 SC400

hi djmicah, i feel so upsad :( and angry to people who did to your car. Don't be upsad, you can work on another sc right. ;) And i have some part that i would like from your car.

Steering column surround trim (i can show picture how to remove it)

center console rear ashtray (the one behind the center glove box)

Stereo system in center console (if it is not working, it is fine, i just need the parts, i am fixing my one)

Let me know, if you still have it, i would like to offer to fair value because i want the stuff kind of typical. Thank you

ok i have the ashtray and steering trim and am looking for my stereo, i have a few people interested but im not sure if i still have it.

thanks for youre interest thoughand the nice message. make an offer on those parts if you want

thanx mike...619-250-7828

HELLO, I NEED AN INSIDE DOOR HANDLE - DRIVER SIDE

THANKS, MARK HARDERSCO@COMCAST.NET

What models and years (SC4301, RX, LS, GS) will fit my 95' SC400 Rear View Mirror? I have a see thru spot in the center (day time w/o tint). SC 400 mirrors (tan) are hard to find and would like to upgrade?

Thanks, mark

Hi...I have read the several threads on replacing the "D" bulb in the RX300 and people mention that you need to unscrew the two top screw in the console with small philips screw driver...that part I understand, but what are you using to pry out the two pieces of dash that need to come out in order to finish the operation? I have looked at using a flat head, but it looks to me like I would damage my dash in the process. Does any one have any ideas? I am talking about the right side piece of trim around the key lock and the trim around the mirror and seat memory switches. Is there a special tool that is required to do this? Any help or advice would be appreciated...thanks...

Please read previous thread with a link, instructions with step-step pics are posted and are very much appreciated. I preformed the R&R in about 20 min. and added a few simple notes. Hint: you don't need to disconnect the wires from the cluster, the "D: is green = second in position, you don't need to take the white cover off.

mark.blend

A little feed from the "D" lite installation. The instructions explained here are easy for removal. I should note that if the operator is careful not the scratch the cluster or pull the hardness -that it may be positioned upright between the steering wheel and the bad "D" green socket removed and replaced without taking the (3) hardness connectors off or the center cover(8 screws?). The 2nd position is green for the "D" light and number 1&3 are black (L 2 D respectively). I would pre-fit a Phillips screw driver to the new "D" at the bench to ensure proper fit at the cluster. Assembly, as described, is equally as easy. I spend 15 minutes playing/figuring the holes vs. light position. I'm still not sure why the 2nd position = D Green, but is correct!

keep the board alive!

mark.blend

I just purchased the "D" light from Kuni lexus, Co it list for $11.00 and with a club discount it was $8.80. The part number has been revised, which means they either improved it or changed the MFG source? Time with determine the change, as they did not know?? It was #83119246710, as identified in this how-to reference site, and is now 83119-24670. They knew exactly what I needed without looking up the number - they should have gave me it! I may have left there a satisfied customer and considered a new parts car!

mark.blend

Will buy your: Rear View Mirror for $30. E-mail me for payment means

thanks, mark.blend, denver hardersco@comcast.net

I have a stock 95 SC400 would also like a budget turbo or twin turbo system, but would need the installation formula for what else needs to be done, i.e., sizing injectors, fuel pump, any adjustments to cam tensionor, exhaust, etc.

mark.blend, denver

All,

I've got a '95 SC400 which some absolute !Removed! bumped the other day and I now have a dent just next to the joint with the rear fender on the drivers side.

I think it should be a fairly easy repair since the dink is accessible through the trunk and a few taps with the right tools should be able to work the damage out.

Unfortunately the a**hole chipped the paint and the area is going to require refinishing. While it's at the shop I'll get the rear and front fenders done too - might as well.

It's really important that the job is first rate and done by someone who understands how to match and blend metallics and use the right amount of flex in the paint mix – too often you see apparently good fender jobs craze and cobweb at the slightest hint of pressure – the result of an incorrect paint mix.

Any recommendations for a great body shop in the GTA??

Thanks

I'm not sure what a !Removed! is but your pic with help! Paint repair is both an art, skill and "experience". What your wanting for the bummbers is "flex agent" added to the bumper paint - with out it, there is no flex capability. Most good shops will add this, especially if questioned/ask for! it changes the wet-out so the car is painters/blended separately. As for the paint there are three basic type: soild colors, two stage with metallics, and tri-coat; all are formulated with base color and top with clear, except tri-coat which has a factory intermediate coat of pearl or pearl/metallic (between base color and clear). Most all Lexus very light colors that look pearl or essence are tri-coat (i.e., white code 51). Most skilled professional paints can blend base and clear, some -approximately 1 out of 25 can blend two stage metallics, very few many 1 in 250 can blend tri-coats correctly. Most all insurances are based on panel complete because the defficultly with blending. Do appreciate that many color codes as read from the car VIN tag could have many "color variations" - in the 80's, 90's and early 2000's until paint batch tagging was instituted, this means for simple black (2-stage, Es 300) there are about 3 "variation paint" formulas that could be possible and white tri-coat = about 3. Therefore besides the difficulty blending the paint, the correct match has to determined and it will stand out like a sore spot with in correct color blends, but not as noticeable when completed to an edge. Only skill painters knows what to do!!! They try to stay only with the factroy formulas otherwise its a its trial-by-error and a color blend science; Paint matching by machine or mass-spec scanning is only 60% close for tri-coats, about 80-95% color accurate for base coats with metallics and some pearls (to 5% wt) because of the "flop agent" that is factory additive to control the metallics and pearls reflection position, and solids can be very exact. Some factory pacs or availble, but not very often.

I hope this paint appreciationn helps = find a good reliable shop, probably as recommended by lexus or good referral, get an estimate before hand then inspect the paint in the sun light (full spectrum white light)

Mark.blend, Denver

also looking for good - stand by their work - and affordable shop in or around Denver area. Don't see too many older SC's here. Thanks in advance- Doug

Doug, The Toy Shop at Santa Fa and Mississippi; Many of use in Aerospace w/ lexus use this shop and he is very fair. He just installed all tune-up parts and adjusted throttle linkage for $300 plus parts, including fuel filter which the single bigest issue - because its hard to get off=rust ($85). Call me if you any questions 303-971-1812

mark

No change what so ever in sound when deleting the two smaller cats...Infact there was only maybe a 10% increase in sound when I upgraded to my S&S Headers..Upper exhaust changes have very little effect on sound on the SC4's....The biggest change in exhaust sounds will be from your mufflers, Y's and center main cat. swaps or deletions...

Getting a little off topic here...Sorry 94BLKSC400

The shop should have tried better: for many Lexus blacks there are several formula variations which should be check with test panels, depending on the time of production runs morning, noon or night which is a small percentage of tone change to the mix and to the color. The fade character can be adjusted by reducing 105 base black, but the basic color/depth should be very close/exact. Most painter will find the color, not try the variations and blame the match on fade. Go back and have them fix it. The surface scan with the mass spec works well for solid colors, because tri, pearls, metallic have flop agents, and is about 90% accurate for older colors. Either way the painter should know what to do.

mark.blend

Laura. Formula matching is not a good idea on a 12 year old vehicle. Scanning the paint is the right way and the method that any decent paint shop should/would use.

Tom

Oh well. now they are now going to try to paint mix into the doors...

Lets see what comes out of this one. In case this goes south, I'm looking at a nice flame job int the fenders or a 2 tone car....:cries:

I would recommend being a bit more assertive with this. The paint mix is a lousy remedy when all that needs to be done is a repaint on the front of the car. Seriously, I would very nicely suggest an entire redo and if that strikes them !Removed! then contract a solid shop for the repair and bring the former to court. Truly, the ball is in your court with some photos. The mix will never, and I mean never look right.

Open driver door, keep it open and in the unlocked position

Put original key in ignition and pull out

Lock and Unlock the doors 5 times

Close the door and open the door

Lock and Unlock the doors another 5 times

Put the Master Key in the ignition, turn it on and then off and remove from the ignition

You should hear a confirmation beep within 10 seconds and the door locks should actuate

Push the button on the new key

Close the door and open the door

Push the button again on the new key

good luck

Marty

Open driver door, keep it open and in the unlocked position

Put original key in ignition and pull out

Lock and Unlock the doors 5 times

Close the door and open the door

Lock and Unlock the doors another 5 times

Put the Master Key in the ignition, turn it on and then off and remove from the ignition

You should hear a confirmation beep within 10 seconds and the door locks should actuate

Push the button on the new key

Close the door and open the door

Push the button again on the new key

good luck

Marty

Marty, I appreaciate the help - I programmed through the sequence and received the conformation beeps; however, the button does not respond.

Please advise,

Mark

Could some explain - what is the sequence to programming a key, for 1995 SC 400. I just bought this car and the key works everything, except the auto buttom lock. I have replaced the battery, but It did not help.

Thanks, mark.blend