Gene

I've had my 1994 LS400 for several years. I put maybe 4,000 miles a year on it. Presently around 120K. At purchased I had new Goodyear Viva tires installed. A couple years back I began hearing tire road noise. I had the tires re balanced and rotated. It didn't seem to help. I've just lived with the aggravation since. I've had the tires check several times since. One person said one of my rims was bent. Recently I asked specifically for the bent rim to be moved from the LF to the RR and vise versa. Now the tire noise radiates more loudly than when on the front. Is that natural? A local used parts place has a rim for $75.00. Would I be throwing good money after bad? Thanks, Gene

Thats ok. So would it be possible to have a fuse blone for the seats not to heat but a sep fuse for the heated seat indicator lights? I've also read forums about not enough voltage comming to the seats or a thermostat in the seat? IDK I plan on researching this issue today and go home look at my dads car. Its been -20 for like 2/3 days in a row in VT so my dad wants his seats fixed lol. Thanks for help. Maybe I will try a voltage meter on the connection under the seat when calling for heated seats...see what kinda power gets pushed to the seat. Paul

1994 LS400. Passenger seat warmer light will not turn off. I assume the light means it's heating. Looks very difficult to replace. Is it? Could it be related to any other wiring? Any advice, thoughts, or info on how to get to it? Thanks, Gene

Howdy. Thanks for being here and posting your comments. I needed to confirm a repair price I was given was about average. I have a 1994 LS400 with 115K miles. My car quit. The starter is bad. It came within about 14 months of a mechanic saying it could last around a year. A fairly well respected independent auto shop in the W. Asheville (NC) area gave a price of around $800, parts and labor. I've had it around four years and like the comfort and power. However, what I've done and what I've had done to it has always been very pricy. I guess this is the inevitable straw that broke the camel's back. I'll have the starter repaired and try to sell the car. For whatever it's worth I think the LOC is the finest car forum, hands down. Gene

A friend of a friend put new rotors and ceramic pads on my 1994 LS 400, 111K miles. The F of an F won't do anything about the squeak/squeal. The car does it mostly at low speeds like going through McDonald'd drive thru. It's embarrassing when the person at both the pay window and the pick up window say "It sure sounds like you need new brakes!". Do I need original rotors and pads put on. Or does it just sound like a miss match; bad rotors; dumb mechanic; or whatever? Any thoughts? Ideas? Suggestions? If I can use aftermarket stuff I'm thinking of paying another $150 to a garage that'll stand behind t heir work. If I have to use OE I'll have to wait a while. Thanks, Gene

Very valuable information, Folks, and I thank you. I had to smile about the $135 purchase. I just bid $181 from the same person and was outbid. I didn't feel like going higher because it seems I remember someone selling a remanufactured for around that price. If you do the rebuild thing it should sell for about what you paid. That's pretty good business where one winds up with no investment in the parts and the only cost was their personal labor. Way to go. When one mentions hammer and chisel I begin to worry. That's a good site you recommended. I'll study it thoroughly before I decide which direction to go. Thanks again, Gene

1994 LS400 110K miles. I can get it replaced for around $450 parts and labor which is not bad, I don't think. I can get the pump for a little less than $200. Using knowledge gained from removing the old one is it extremely difficult to replace it with a remanufactured unit? I know there's a lot of topics about P/S pumps but I've not run into layman language instructions about replacement or of anyone who has actually done it themself. I'll appreciate whatever help and advice you may offer. Thanks, Gene

1994 LS. 110K. At low speed turning I often feel a "tug" in the steering. I've a light leak in the PS pump but keep it filled. Would the tug be the PS pump or could it be the slave cylinder (don't know what it is called) down below. Or could it be a worn out ball joint in the steering assembly? If it is the PS pump would you repair or replace. I've seen kits around $75, I think, or an entire rebuilt pump for around $180. Thanks, Gene

Although I've had a computer since February, 1990 I still don't understand why some notes I get and/or download come through like trying to read an ancient egyptian wall. Such was the case when I tried to save the pdf site you mentioned. I can still get it from your post and I thank you. If and when I began working on the vehicle I'll refer to it. For whatever it's worth my history of the vehicle did not disclose a 90K service. We don't have a Lexus dealer in Asheville (near by) and the nearest one is in Greenville, SC. Still, the person I got it from seemed fairly meticulous but also she was a young single parent. She had the vehicle since shortly after the 60K service was done by the prior owner. I have information she had the oil changed regularly but know little after that. Friday I called a local foreign car service. I'm going through a third party to, hopefully, get my best deal on a 90K service. I'll know Tuesday what they charge. If I'm not mistaken they replace things like the water pump, the tensioner, the serpetine belt, and so on. If I get them to do the work I'll have them check the steering pump. I drove it yesterday and twice noticed it grabbing at about a 90 degree turn. Anything below sharp turns does not create any grabbing reaction. Thanks, again. Gene

Sorry to bother you folks again but how does one see the tensioner? I have a Chilton's import car manual for 1990-1994. It speaks of a tensioner but doesn't say nor is their a picture to show where it is. I did a search Lexus Forums search hoping to find instructions and pictures but missed it if it's here somewhere. Any help? Thanks, Gene

Thanks for the replies. I did a lot of reading from the other questions. It does seem the LS400 can have a powr steering problem, doesn't it. I drove to a car wash and cleaned the engine. On the way there and back I estimate I made about ten 90 degree turns. Only on one of them did I feel a jerk in the steering. Following the thought to try the simpliest thing first I believe I'll follow the pictures and instructions showing how to change the fluid. I've not read of anyone saying this might fix the problem but there's enough discussion I felt it worth a try. The note about checking the tensioner is valuable. I've not checked it yet but will today (Sat 9-2). Thanks, again, y'all, for the advice and leading me toward the other discussions. Gene

1994 LS400 104K miles. I've had it about a year. Today I felt a light jerk in the steering wheel. I checked front tire pressure-OK. I drove again and turning corners I felt the jerk. No squeeling like when the fluid is low. I checked fluid while hot and it was barely below the indentifier. I added a little to bring it to the hot level. I still feel a light jerk when turning. I smelled the fluid. It had a very faint burnt odor. I pressed the drive belt. It gave way suddenly and compressed maybe an inch or more. (1) Does anyone know if the car has a chronic power steering problem? (2) Has anyone ever recommended removing the old power steering fluid by using a syringe and replacing it with new? Would this help? (3) When the belt suddenly compressed (pushed in) I thought it may have a weak tensioner somewhere. It offered a little resistance before dropping. Does the way I've described the belt make anyone think it may be the cause of the power steering problem? In the distant past I've messed with engines a little and the rule of thumb was if the belt gave more than about a half inch it needed tightening. All opinions appreciated. Regards, Gene

Thanks, everyone. To be honest I failed to consult the owner's manual. I just didn't think it might be in there. The pictures showing someone darkening the rear lights came in handy although they were for the right rear and not for the left rear. I changed the bulb and now have a N.C. inspection that last's until May, 2007. For whatever it's worth I went inside the trunk. To get to the screws I removed two nylon plung screws - one from a panel pad and one from the hard plastic that runs the across the trunk latch area. The hard plastic has an inverted U that helps it adhere to the metal. When replacing everything I missed it and had to perform a redo. The two screws are 10mm and are both at the bottom. I dropped a screw (naturally). I would suggest putting a towel below them. After removing the screws one should pull the light assembly out about a couple of inches and push back. This will disengage the plastic pegs that secure the back of the light. With the light assembly out it's just a matter of replacing the bulb. I did have a little trouble with the upper screw hole when putting things back together. The light assembly has soft rubber surrounding the female nuts. It's pretty difficult to force the light assembly so these rubber surroundings cover the screw holes. I had to force the screw through the rubber. I hope it still seals well. Anyway, folks, thanks again. I'll probably be around again if something else goes wrong. I'm sure glad this site exists and that you are here to help. Regards, Gene

I can't get an inspection (NC) because one of the two left-rear brake lights is out. I think I have to remove the entire light assembly. Am I right? If so, what panels inside the trunk do I remove? What screws? If I have to remove the entire assembly does the rubber seal come loose easily or does it stick to the frame? I'm sorry for seeming so ignorant. I've had this since November. I replaced the antenna and screwed up the fender area around it. I'm trying to be more cautious with this project. Thanks, Gene

Thanks for the replies, Folks - About the whine, it was the left front wheel bearing. The repair shop had to keep the car longer. They put in the wrong bearing the first time. About the tires, I got so tired of looking I was at a Walmart Super Store and saw their brand Goodyear Viva 2. Total price was around $350. I was looking at around $550 for whatever I bought. Little noisy but may subside with tread wear. The antenna - I haven't run across any place, here or through Google, that offers more that the tip of the iceberg, so to speak. I have the motor out and have ordered a replacement antenna. For whatever it's worth my antenna was the original. The top did not screw off - it was machine crimped. It also has a split top with a nylon washer. I don't know why. I haven't completed the job because the part is not here. If I get it done to my satisfaction I may write everything in detail and keep it for future souls who may encounter this. Thanks again, Gene