super50

Fed ex to for ease of live tracking.

Just got my LX delivered by fedex passport custom critical. Had guaranteed pick up in OH on the 20th, and it got here in CA on the 3rd.

Great service and the LX looks great! Highly recommended for hassle free and worry free shipping.

Good for you, thats awesome! So, toy-lex cut a blank key that you sent them, not bought from them? I never knew that anyone would do that.

very timely! my detailer just broke my key...I thought I was out 300 bucks! : )

Does anyone know how to pull the back interior panel to access the Mark Levinson subwoofer? Apparently, my wife has been enjoying the system, and managed to blow the subwoofer. Does anyone know of a parts supplier for a replacement. The dealer wants $450+ for the part alone.

Thanks.

would recommend searching this topic on www.ih8mud.com for aftermarket replacements

The car will run fine for months and then it will not start or not idle. It is an 02 lx 470 any ideas?

fuel pump/fuel line issues?

My 1999 LX 470sunroof sticks from time to time and I just push it from inside with my hand while pusing the open button. After getting it open I always try to grease up the runners which seems to help considerably, but the hand push has always helped whenever I have had problems.

there is a way to open and close it manually if you have to. directions are in your manual.

Just purchased a 05 LX 470. On freewys at 65 & above have noticed "whistle" on driver's side window especially when it's windy..

Any ideas??

Thanks.

leaking door seal if it is loud..? or it could be the mirror. Unfortunately the aerodynamics of the LX are similar to a brick wall.

I am looking for a downloadable or CDROM/DVD of the 1999 LX470 repair manuals (both volumes 1 & 2) ..all I could find was the paper version on eBay.

Does anybody know where I can look? If anybody is interested in selling me a used copy (electronic or paper), please PM me.

Thanks!

I am in a similar situation..will repair/replace as needed, but not by Lexus. Many cheaper options are available. I never go to them to stuff like brakes, etc.

Overall it would be much more expensive to buy or lease a similar new vehicle. My LX has been a very reliable machine so far.

Noticed oil dripping behind right front passenger wheel. Took it to local garage for inspection and they say the front axle is leaking grease and the seals need to be replaced. He could not get the part, so I will be taking it to local dealer. Just wondering if anyone had this problem, and how much this may cost...

It has 104000 miles on it, and drives fine.

Long distance move coming up next month. Trying to decide between FedEx Passport Custom Critical transport vs Intercity Lines....does anybody here have experience with either? prices are very similar.

My 97 450 has this obnoxious squeak when you turn the steering wheel. My mechanic said it is a $500. problem, as the brushes controlling the wheel controls have to be replaced. Yikes. Before I did this, I thought I'd get some feedback. How hard is it to get a new steering wheel? Mine is disintegrating due to my dirty construction hands. Read some thread that I have to get one at a junk yard to send in for new leather? Thanks y'all. rb

Mine squeaks just a little at times. I just ignore it. definitely wouldn't spend $500 on it.

Does applying the brakes make any difference? maybe your rotors are warped. also, check tire pressure...

You may want to check the heat shield on your catalytic converter. Mine came loose and made an annoying rattle right around 2000 rpm in every gear.

Any muffler shop should be able to tack weld the heat shield to prevent the rattling. However, my first weld broke loose in a week. The second weld has yet to break loose.

I heard of another guy on this forum who wrapped a metal hose clamp around the cat to prevent the rattle. I may try this out if my weld breaks again.

Hope this helps. Let me know what you find out.

Yeah..there is a TSB about this problem. I had the same problem. Lexus will fix it if your vehicle is under 80K miles - they will REPLACE the catalytic converter shields that are know to develop cracks. If you are out of warranty, the job will cost around $400 at Lexus, parts included. Otherwise just get it spot welded for 50 bucks and cross your fingers.

I have the tow kit but I took off the towing part since I hardly use it and it looks a lot better without it on there.

I would LOVE to find a plug to put in there that has the "L" logo but if I cant I would settle for some sort of plug for that location as it looks unfinished opened like that.

Any ideas where I could find something like I am looking for? And what would the actual wording be for that kind of part? So I could do my own research through google if you guys dont know where to find what I am looking for.

Is that a pic of your fender? My LX did not have a built in hitch, and had to get an aftermarket one.

Stoptech has a bedding in process that I used. I did a series of 60-5 mph "stops" (10 of them) then a cooling off period afterward without coming to a stop. I did the bedding in on a 4 lane hwy late (after midnight) and my cooling off consisted of driving for about 20 min at 60 mph after the series of 10 "stops." I then repeated the same scenario. No complete stops at any time during the process. The hwy was wide enough to do a u-turn at about 5 mph without ever stopping. My brakes are responsive and smooth.

That's similar to what I did...6 near stops from 60->10mph, then 10 min cool down, then I drove maybe 5 mi up the Sky Island Highway (climbs from 2500 ft to 9000 ft in 28 mi), which was about 1500 ft up, then did the twisty turns at 40/50mph slowing to about 10mph, then did 5 more near stops from 60->10 on the flats at the bottom. Pads were smoking afterwards! I drove about 20 min home w/o stopping, parked the car in the garage w/o brakes (tranny in P only), let it sit overnight.

Anyone know where I can find some DIY instructions with photos on brake pad replacement? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

local firestone shop - changed the front pads for $225 total, rears for $170. Aftermarket pads, seem to be working fine. They did not grind the rotors as they did not need it. No point wasting money at Lexus.

Noticed some oil on my garage floor - few inches behind the right front wheel area. I looked up there and took a picture (see above -with arrows pointing to area with oil).

There seems to be a pipe/rubber hose that disappears into the motor area from below - had a few drops of clear straw colored oil on it. It did not look like the oil in the transmission (that has a red/pink color to it). All the fluid levels look OK, and the truck is working fine. For what its worth, I had the engine oil, tarnsmission, and differential oils changed about 1000 miles ago.

Any ideas from forum members what the leak may be from?

Thanks!

I am moving to Sacramento this summer. I was wondering if the forum members would share good and bad experiences (specifically who to avoid) with local dealers and independent shops in the area...

Thanks!

I take my LX470 to Magnussens Toyota in Auburn. See their online coupons for deals as well. I paid $600 for water pump and timing belt change there vs. Roseville Lexus's $1800 quote and Roseville Toyota's $1200 quote.

Another reputable shop is Sacramento Autotech, 2541 Tower Ave # A Sacramento, CA 95825, (916) 489-1034. The mechanic is Ken Dano.

Thank you. That was very helpful and timely. My water pump and timing belt replacement is coming up soon, so I will be calling those guys.

I am moving to Sacramento this summer. I was wondering if the forum members would share good and bad experiences (specifically who to avoid) with local dealers and independent shops in the area...

Thanks!

101k miles now, brake pads changed to generic non-lexus pads around 75-80K by local Firestone shop. Conservative driving and my pads are only 20% worn. I get a squeaking sound only when I reverse my LX. The squeaking goes away when I apply the brakes. I can localize the sound to the rear wheels. No squeaking when I am going forward. Any idea what might be going on? Brakes work fine otherwise.

Good grief if the hitch is still there just have U Haul put in the necessary wiring, will probably cost next to nothing compared to Lexus.

I will give them a try. Thanks!

50 Bucks at U-Haul and I now have a new wiring harness for my hitch! Thanks!

i have a 2003 lx470 with 66k on it and am thinking about changing out the ahc and power steering fluids myself. i want to siphon out the reservoirs in the engine bay and add new fluid. i know this method won't totally replace the old fluid but it should take care of most of it. does anyone see any problems with this less than perfect plan?

Does it need to be switched out at 60K, or are you having problems? I am at 94K, and I dont think I got them replaced.

Jim, We just got our brakes done on a 2002 with 60K miles. Longo Lexus did not mention anything about repacking bearings. I have to assume they were not done or the outside ones were done as you had described. Is this something we should worry about and have the inside ones done, will it cause damange? Thanks.

I forgot to ask..if I do this myself can I get away with just replacing pads only ? DO the rotors have to be changed?

No, but I'd at least recommend having the rotors turned. New, quality aftermarket rotors like brembo's or powerslots run about $105-120 each. Pads are about $50/axle for OEM. They should replace and regrease the anti-squeal shims (about $40 per axle). If you just slap new pads in, chances are, the brakes will start pulsating due to the new pads not distributing pad material evenly on the worn (not flat) rotors.

The rear rotors are easy to do...maybe 15 min each wheel. Fronts are a different story, as it's 4wd. You need some special tools...large brass bar and hammer, snap ring pliers, 54mm 6-point SST socket, fish-scale for tension, torque wrench, 17mm deep 6-pt socket, misc other sockets. You need to remove the wheel, brake caliper mounting bolts and hose bracket bolt (don't disconnect brakes hose). Then remove the dust cap, 4wd flange (use brass bar and hammer to pound the 6 studs). With the flange off, remove old gasket, then use snap ring pliers to remove snap ring. Use large screwdriver to bend tabs on aluminum lock washers back straight, then use 54mm socket SST to remove outer and inner axle nuts. Remove hub & rotor unit, unbolt rotor from hub, replace w/ new rotor. If you haven't repacked the inner bearing, do so now. Use a seal driver, plastic hammer, or stack of wood to set the brass seal for the inner bearing. Repack outer bearing and torque inner nut to the spec'd torque, turn wheel back & forth, loose nut, tighten to new torque, then install lock washer and outer nut. Use fish scale to test tension on lug nut. Reinstall snap ring, then 4wd flange. For each wheel, you'll need one inner oil seal (~$22), a new aluminum lock washer (~$5), a flange gasket ($2), plus grease. A bearing packer helps. Figure about 4 hrs to do the job if you've done it before, 8 hrs if you haven't. Labor is typically $250-300 for a front bearing repack, so I'd figure that much to install rotors up front alone. I glossed over the steps just to give you an idea of how labor instensive it is, and how, if you can get the dealer to do it for $200 in labor, it's a steal. :-) It's a labor intensive, messy job that no one wants to do, even for a pro. BTW, you are supposed to repack the front wheel bearings (in the above method) every 30K mi.

Lexus wanted $800 for the front axle brakes, and Firestone did it for $175, all inclusive. I did miss the loaner car though.

Common for the heat shields on the catalytic converter's to crack around the bolt holes causing a buzz/ rattle. There was a TSIB for this.

Thank you very much! I appreciate it.

My '99LX has 94K miles on it. It is out of extended warranty now.

I have noticed a loud metallic rattle coming from below the vehicle, only when I am accelerating, between 1500RPM to 2500RPM. Rattle stops when I take my foot off the accelerator. No rattle at higher RPMs. No relation to brake use. I can reproduce it by revving the motor while parked and seems to be coming from mid-vehicle or the rear. I cannot localize it further. The vehicle runs fine otherwise.

Has anyone had similar issues? Does anybody have any ideas?

Thanks a lot! I was able to switch out the blown bulb. You were right about the cardboard being fragile...

Which light is it? the tail light on the OUTER left side or the INNER left side? Is it on the tailgate or on the body? If its on the tailgate, open the tailgate. Then slowly, and carefully wedge a screw driver(door panel puller is the proper tool but i dont know if you have one) and start to pry off each clip that holds the carpeted panel on. Be careful as this panel is made out of freaking cardboard pretty much and the clips will rip right out if you arent careful.

Once you have fully removed the whole carpeting, there are two panels inside on each side of the tailgate. Each is held on by 3 philips head screws. remove the screws and pull the panel off, revealing the bulb housing and sockets. The bulb closer to the inside of the vehicle is the one you want to replace, the one closer to you is the reverse light.

OR

If the bulb that is blown is on the outside, open the tailgate. Then look near the OUTER tailight housing but on the inside of the tailgate door jam, you will see two torex/flathead screws. Take those two out and then push on the tailight where it flushs up against the tailgate. Push it out...basicly at a 90* angle of the length of the car. Two little pressure clips should pop off and you can get at the bulb.

The bulb you need to replace is a 7443 bulb, found at your local auto parts store, maybe even gas station.

enjoy.