thewzdoc

Hi All,

My Lexus has decided that it doesn’t want to start when I want it to start… Normally it is in the morning I go out and turn the key and nothing…if I leave the ignition on for a few minutes I will hear a “CLICK” from under the hood (sounds like the passenger side) and then it will start.

I tried using jumper cables but the same thing happens. After it is running the charging system is working and the battery shows ~14 volts.

After it has been running for a while and it is warm it will start with no problem…

Is there a starter relay somewhere that could be on its way out? If so where is it and what is it called?

Thanks in advance for the help!

I had someone (an elderly man) hit my LS400 a few years ago. I was pulling up to a red light and he came accross traffic and t-boned the front quarter panel.

THe first thing out of his mouth was "Oh no...it's a Lexus".....$2700 later the dent was fixed. (It was only a small 4 inch dent)

Mine ticks too. I had my mechanic listen and he said it was the injectors and not to worry.....yay....first time it cost me $0 dollars!

My leather sucks......I'm having it replaced.....$1500!....

I used the PB Blaster last night and it worked wonders! THe old plug came right out with no thread damage.

THe stuff was actually bubbeling in the hole and then dissapeared....

Yes I used anti-seize on all of the plugs (I always have on my other cars).

skperformance...I had no idea that you owned stock in Lexus...thanks for the "help"

I posted this as a reply in another thread but I thought I'd give it it's own just in case.

I changed all the plugs until I got to the last one and it's stuck. I worked it out about 2 turns but now it will not turn at all in either direction.:chairshot:

Anyone us PB Blaster before?

SON OF A !!!!!! THe last spark plug is stuck...fast. I was able to turn it out about 2 turns but now it is totally stuck.... :chairshot:

I'm going to buy some PB Blaster to see if the catalyst will break the bond......I hope to god it's not cross threaded....

Thank you guys! I hust requested the quote too.....I figured out what was going on but I couldn't find the part in question. I was going to buy a whole PS pump!

I'm in a position to do the same. Did you do the work yourself?

I took mine to a local shop and I am satisfied. They used the ceramic pads and there is no squealing or stuttering.

A side note: The keyfob or the car’s system, one or the other, is not working so I have to use the key to enter my LS400. I took it to a Toyota dealer and they happily took down the notes about the issues I was having. They called about 6 hours later and said I needed to pickup the car. They handed me a bill for $75, a diagnosis charge, and the keys. I said, “So is she fixed”. The guy behind the counter said, “No we cannot work on the electrical systems on the Lexus because we don’t have the schematics”. I was flabbergasted and asked why he thought it was ethical to charge me for something that they knew they could not fix in the first place. They guy of course was a paid grunt that didn’t have a clue. I HATE TOYOTA DEALERS……if you want to go to a dealer only go to Lexus.

Thanks I'm watching the auction not. I'll wait and see where the price goes before I bid. I found these online for ~$200 with a lifetime warrantee through Kragan.

Won't be able to spell it out for you, but it sounds like a 'shsh...shsh...shsh'

The white smoke is after it breaks, and the engine won't crank anymore.

I have a 1990 LS400 and mine just broke and the engine stopped. Nothing this dramatic, you must have lost more than just a timing belt.

The rims will start to lose structural integrity too now that the "paint" has done the inevitable shedding from the aluminum. Not that they are going to fly apart on you but you will notice that they will no longer hold air as they once did. You should check the air pressure regularly anyway but this is especially true of flaky wheels.

As long as the new paint matches the main body paint I don’t see an issue. If you do resale the car the person will generally know the car is repainted and will probably ask why. If you like the 1 color look then go for it. It’s only about $500 to add the second color later if the new buyer really is anal. I had my 1990 repainted and she looks great, I did the original colors because I am anal…..

P.S. She has 240,000 miles so yes you do have a lot of driving ahead of you.

P.P.S. Be prepared to spend $2,500 or more on the paint. Don’t go for the single shot not clear coat crap. Get an OEM type repaint. This is a multistage affair that begins with a good base, then a couple of color coats, then a few clear. Finally they color sand and buff the car. Mine looks almost like the original factory paint.

I don’t know about the 94 but my 90 has the yellow friggen lens built into the housing. The bulb is clear. I guess I’ll have to smash the yellow lens out of the housing…man I hate to make changes that I can not reverse!

I guess I'll give it a shot if I could get the instructions ahead of time. Like you said I'd like to look at it before I fork over $150 bucks.

Mine was doing this and it was the main idler bearing and the water pump.

Additionally the LS400 AC comp sucks and makes a horrible whining sound when the AC is on.

i would suspect a bearing pin on the drive shaft

also is it when stationary or driving?

Both....It's worse with higher RPM's.

I had the trans pulled, rear main repacked, new water pump, new timing belt, new serpentine belt and pulley, hoses and such.

I’ve been driving the car for a couple of weeks and I noticed a vibration not just in the steering wheel but through the shift lever, and floors. I thought it was my imagination but my wife rode in the car a few days ago and made the came comment. What could this be!? :chairshot:

Where did you get the replacement rear outers? I've been looking and have yet to find them!

If you use anything under 91 octane you run the risk of knocking and pinging due to pre-ignition. This is due to the high compression ratios of the engine. This was what was explained to me anyway.

I was hit by a little old man. I was pulling up to a stop light (it was red) and before I could come to a stop he darted between cars from my right and hit my right front fender. The accident was found to be 100% his fault....duh he hit me perpendicularly.

His first comment was “Oh no not a Lexus” in that quivery little old man voice. I felt bad for him. He was coming out of a bank parking lot and just didn’t see me between the 3 lanes of traffic that he had to cross to hit me.

$2400 damage for a dint about 6 in X 5 in! :o

Toyota gave me the "Duh.....our...um...numbers don't match Lexus. Maybe you could come in and we could take a look."

They didn't have any direct replacements plus their struts were as much as the Lexus dealers anyway.

I have yet to find an OEM replacement from any source other than the dealer.

Someone please prove me wrong....without the need to hack and slash to get it to "fit". :chairshot:

My battery has about four cracks on the negative pole (original). I am thinking about going to Sears, buy one and replacing it myself. What precaution should I take? Does Sears' battery fit perfectly in a 96 LS? Should I go to a Toyota dealer? Size? Etc. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

I bought a battery from a local car shop and the friggen thing was sooooo small that the bracket couldn't be tightened enough to hold it in place! I went back and got the biggest one (that fit) with the highest cranking amps I could find and all is good now.

I'll go out and get the name and model of the battery later.

Mine is VERY hard to get off. I am afraid I am doing something wrong. Do I simply twist it off?

You have to have t wrenches. One holds the fuel filter and the other backs the nut out of the filter. You do this twice of course. You also have to take the skid plate (very thin) off and take 2 nuts off of the bracket that is holding the filter. It took me a while because I stripped a nut. It was just one of the bracket hold downs.