vinny186

Thanks again for the advice, Gene.

I checked the wires and everything seemed ok, hooked it all up again but still no luck. I ordered a used one and while the needles work, I can't see any of them! So I've decided to send it to a repair shop I found on Ebay. Hopefully in another week I can be done with the instrument cluster and start worrying about something else with this car lol

I checked the fuses, there were only two that could have been culprits and they were intact. I also removed the instrument cluster and made sure all electrical connections were fully seated. Looks like I may need to order a whole new cluster.

Gene, thanks so much for the detailed info. Unfortunately I didn't disconnect the battery - so dumb! I'll check the fuses tomorrow.

I recently removed my instrument cluster to replace the burned out bulbs with LED's.

Problem 1. When I reinstalled everything, my eng. temp and fuel needles stopped working. Could this be loose wires or do I need to replace the needles altogether?

Problem 2. For the bulb replacement, do I pull out the bulb from the plastic thing it's seated in and put the LED bulb in it's place?

I'm getting ready to order this part but was wondering if there is anything I need to know about installation - any expected difficulties or gaskets I should know about?

thanks.

i'd appreciate it if anyone could post a pic of the exhaust of a 95 es300.

Near the front of the car is a ribbed pipe (cat?) that has a hole in it and I need to replace it. I'm wondering if I can just replace it with a straight pipe. Thanks.

What are slide pins?

I don't get it, I installed the front pads a year ago and had no problem with the install but I just tried installing some new pads in the rear and I can't get the caliper to close. The piston is all the way in as I'm able to close the caliper over it but where the bolt would go to lock down the caliper, I can't get the caliper to fully close.

I went to an auto parts store to compare them and they were all the same thickness.

What gives?

Thanks

I've got 3 tail lights out and after replacing two of the bulbs they still didn't light up. the fuses looked ok, what could be the problem? I'm so tired of looking at the tail light indicator in my dash telling me my lights are out! Any ideas? thanks.

Vince

Do I need a special tool to remove the top bolt from the front motor mount?

The bolt is under the exhaust header (95 es300) and I need to use a socket extension because of the depth of the bolt but i can't get right on top of the bolt because of the manifold, I also have an impact wrench but it wont fit inside the tight area. Any ideas??? Thanks for any help

Called a local Toyota dealer to have my suspension checked but was told they will not inspect it because they couldn't guarantee the work. anyone elso have this problem? (I have a 95"ES)

Brought my 95' to dealer and was told my motor mounts need to be replaced - anyone have any pics and or DIY. Did a search for DIY but found nothing. Thanks

I installed KYB struts several months ago and the ride feels harsher now than before. It's worse than my other car which was tuned for a stiff ride. Something must be wrong with the rear susp. but the installation of the struts was fairly straightforward. Anyone else have this problem?

I replaced the rear sway bushings and rear struts, but the ride sucks. It feels harsher than my lowered BMW.

What am I missing? Strut mounts? does something need to be greased?

Thanks for any responses.

When going in reverse from a complete stop while braking and simultaneously turning the wheel, I feel and hear a clunk. The dealer said it was something loose in the brakes. I just changed the rotors in front and replaced all the pads and didn't notice anything that was loose. It only makes the noise once during a driving session. It's done this since I bought it. This is a 95 ES300. Anyone else have this problem?

Thanks

Quick follow up:

Had to cut it off, great design Lexus - NOT!

The gun worked like a charm!

Thanks, I appreciate the input.

Anthony, when you use the impact, do you have to hold the plunger or does it spin so fast that securing the plunger isn't necessary?

pops is coming by tomorrow with an impact wrench, i'll give it a shot. thanks

As I remember there is a flat spot area on the end of the strut rod. You hold that with one wrench while turning the nut.

The problem is there is no flat spot; absolutely nothing on which to grab. I'm going to try some vice grips on the plunger, hopefully I'll be able to grab it without it turning

In order to remove the nut, does the strut have to be in the strut tower? Because with the entire strut assembly out, the piston just turns with the nut though I suspect it would still turn even if it was installed in the tower. Would vice grips around the plunger work?

I don't have a bench vice, is there some other way to get the job done? It's a 95' Thanks for any help.

I'm in the process of removing my rear struts and where the swaybar link attaches to the strut you have to use an allen wrench to hold the bolt in place as you turn a nut. Well, the allen wrench can't grab because it's stripped. Any ideas?