danigirl

I have exactly the same problem on a 2000 LX470 with Nakamichi. Did you ever solve the problem?

I took to a local stereo place (not Big Box like Circuit City), and they got me one from a salvage yard for approx $300.00. They couldn't repair the other one.

Intereting, every cheapo sterero I ever purchase worked forever, but the high end craps out in 7 years?????

Why not use the original antenna and just find a way for the motor to stop working? That way it fits perfectly and isn't that noticeable when you're driving down the road. ;)

that would be the best...So I would be able to pull the antenna up and down for when I wash the car???

Do you know how to turn the motor off???

I see many posts on how to fix, replace existing, etc., but not that references if you can forget the power antenna, remove and replace with a stationary one. I understand this is normal for Toyota/Lexus to have failing antennas.

If you can replace, does anyone have any suggestions on one that will look good on the RX300 and not make it look dumb and out of place??? B)

I had to replace mine last month. The AM/FM tuner went bad and it sounded like the speakers were going in and out on the radio only.

yes, thankfully, as the final bill sent me into shock.

I expect Bosch will address this with Denso, as they purchase from them. I have also worked in automotive manufacturing and usually there is a case study performed and safety's initiated to insure that it doesn't happen again, if they can find the failure point. All parts have batch or lot #'s which can pin point the whens/hows/where's of a part.

Congrats on your 8k posts. Thanks again for all your help and everyone else too. I hope my post helps someone in the future.

The way I handled it was to address with the retailer I purchased it from, they contacted Bosch direct and worked out the issues to insure reimbursement for costs associated with faulty parts. My reimbursement came directly from the retailer and they recouped from Bosch. I just provided all receipts for parts and services purchased and an outline from Mechanic of the troubleshooting he did.

The mechanic who fixed my car also uses Bosch, and he said he addressed with his sales rep when he had issues like this for other customers.

So you got a bad A/F sensor too. I remember you posting that you replaced with Bosch, but thought it was fixed. Has something else happened?

Too bad you did't have a picture of all 3 sensors side by side for comparison.

←

we did one better, we had all three parts for Bosch to see, that is how we determined the mfg error and recv total refund for unnecessary diagnostics.

The codes were P1133 and P1153. I got multiple codes indicating other problems, due to bad O2's that I purchased and installed. After the MAF was replaced, the codes continued to indicate only the 2 O2's. Per the mechanic, this was just a fluke due to a mfg error. Since I purchased from AAP, they were probably purchased from the same bad batch.

The Bosch part is purchased directly from Denso, has accurate part numbers, etc. You can purchase Aftermarket, as most Aftermarket are mfg by the same mfg's that the OEM purchases from.

The final resolution to fixing the check engine light, was replacing only the 2 O2's. I couldn't return the MAF, as I didn't have my original anymore. All other parts I installed due to codes, such as temp sensor, PCV, etc, were returned, as none were needed after the O2's were replaced with functioning O2's. The manifold was replaced too, as it was cracked...that was at my expense.

Hi all,

Final outcomes....

Light still off, car runs great.

My warranty company reimbursed all costs with regard to replacing 2 O2 sensors, & labor.

Bosch, due to a MFG error from the company they purchased their sensors from, is reimbursing for all costs associated that were caused due to the faulty parts...so basically all diagnostics that would not have been needed if the parts I purchased had been good.

So I am very happy about that....Thanks again for everyone's help.

I wish the manifold was covered, but they said no....bummer, but glad the A/F's are. That helps.

Bosch isn't off the hook yet, we are doing comparisons on all parts now.

I will update on that, as well as final costs....hoping for a happy ending, to this story anyway!!

I appreciate everyone's feedback and quick responses....it helps when you can't get answers from anyone else!!!

I have traveled 25 miles , no light....so that is a relief.

Yes, something funny in Boschland, but I am on it and will update as soon as I know something.

I will be returning the sensors to our Product Director to have analyzed and address the excessive costs I have incurred using the Bosch parts that they advertise are the correct replacment sensor. Bosch is waiting for us to advise the results of this situation.

Also, the mechanic said the sensors worked, they just didn't perform accurately in the Lexus. "Slow response". He said that physically in appearance, they are not the same (and they weren't). The Toyota logo on the Bosch part also didn't look the same as they Toyota logo on my factory installed sensor, however, the part number was the correct Toyota superceeded part number.

Stay tuned!!

yankees

$591.00 in diagnostic time & intallation of manifold and sensors(which is still less than he actually did)

$205.61 for manifold

$25.25 for gasket

$8.03-gasket

$7.16-PCV valve

$227.52-1 Toyota dealer shelf sensor - 89467-48011

$227.52-mechanic ordered Denso sensor - 234-9009

Paying out all this money for a 6 year old luxury car with 61,900 miles on it, when the piece of crap Mazda I had forever never needed anything but gas, an oil change and a good cleaning every once in a while & got 35 MPG.............PRICELESS

Anyhoo....It appears that my extended warranty does cover sensors, so I am suppose to get approx $444.04 back from the warranty company.

Further, I will be filing a warranty defect claim with Bosch as the parts they claim fix my car...DONT, but they do have the exact same part number and Toyota logo, so this should be interesting.

I will update tomorrow after I talk with them...

Blue you may have misunderstood something someone may have wrote somewere else but on a 1mz-fe engine in all RX,ES,camry,avalon engines they all have 3 o2 sensors one on each exhaust manifold (both exactly the same other than a possibility of having different pigtail lenghts) and one after the cat to make sure it is working properly according to the outputs of the first 2 o2 sensors.

An o2 sensor and a air fuel ratio sensor are also the same thing no difference again in the term which is a small filament that has to reach a core temp before it can provide data which is usuable.

Now if you have a consistant o2 problem with a working sensor it leaves only a few things left. A bad wiring connection probably on the pigtail, a malfunctioing maf or wiring (which you mentioned you changed).Basically if the maf read an incorrect amount of air then the ecu will compensate by adjusting the fuel, so if the fuel is ratio'd wrongly by the ecu the end combustion ratio will also be off and set off the code as it cannot see what is actually causing the engine to have a leaner mixture since it is giving it as much fuel as needed for the air it is ingesting.

Make any sense?

I would agree a Lexus dealer is a good bet since right now you are dumping alot of money changing parts without having them thorougly dynamically and  bench tested before replacement.

The easiest thign to do is to have a good tech with a proper scan tool to read the exact outputs of the sensors  with a Lexus factory manual for exact part specs to see what is actually out of line.

BTW Bosch does not make denso parts denso is japanese and bosch is german,Bosch also makes lots of universal o2 sensors but no OEM toyota parts just bmw,mercedes and so on.

←

Hi all,

We have spoken with Bosch Corp today. I work for AAP in the Merchansing/Inventory area, so have been fortunate to have our Bosch Product Director assisting me.

SK is correct about Bosch and the sensors they mfg, and since they don't mfg OE Toyota, they purchase their Toyota sensors from Denso directly and re-package in their Bosch packing.

So as you can imagine, Bosch is also anxiosly awaiting the results since these parts are the same parts installed on the Toyota assembly line.

I am still waiting for the mechanic to call back, supposedly had not recv the parts as of 11:30 today.

Will keep you posted and I hope no one ever has to go thru this....

Hi Bluestu.

Where are the 3 A/F sensors located and what are their part numbers?

The only 2 I have been able to ID are Denso part 89467-48011 (this one replaced the 89467-48010-Lexus supersession). bank 1 and bank 2, sensor 1.

There is a O2 sensor located at the cat, which is a different part from the A/F....but I have not gotten any codes for it. bank 1, sensor 2

Please note SK's first response to this thread, is that the 3 sensors you are speaking of? I just want to be sure, cause at this point I am so confused..

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h37.pdf, here is a link i found when trying to understand all these codes and sensors. This indicates 2 A/F and 1 02 sensor.

I hate to sound repeatative, but just trying to understand exactly what I am dealing with, so I won't get taken advantage of on invoice day when I pick up this car.

thanks and I will advise the mechanic tomorrow. He did say that both sensors are performing, just very slow, he talked in degrees of performance?????

Toyota swears that my 2nd set of new OEM toyota A/F sensors are both bad. So they replaced one with a sensor off their shelf. Re-set codes. Drove car back to other shop, now only one code, the one that wasn't replaced (for the 3rd time). Mechanic has ordered another direct from Denso, and one direct from Toyota. He will install the Denso direct first and see if that corrects. If it doesn't he will try the Toyota part.

I got my first set of Sensors from AAP, 2nd set direct from Toyota, so will be interesting to see if the 3rd set works.

AAP sells Bosch. Bosch is made my Denso...Toyota purchases their A/F from Denso, all the part numbers are exactly the same and carry the Toyota name????????????

The Bosch part is 13333, bu tthe part itself has the Toyota part number stamped on it.

I do have the factory installed set and last set I put on and will be sending them off to be tested, as this is beyond reasonable; unless of course the 2nd set I put on came off the same MFG line and the guy making the part was smoking crack that day.

Will keep you posted.

As other information, one of the codes I got during this debacle was P0125-.Insufficient Coolant Temperature For Closed Loop Fuel Control. I replaced the temp switch. My mechanic put my original back on and said it works fine. He asked Toyota and they said that definition for that code was incorrect --that the code has to do with A/F sensors.....interesting, wonder how many other codes are misprinted.

Can anyone confirm??

You have just helped cement the issues that show an exhaust leak in a manifold can cause o2 sensor failures when there is none.

←

it gets worse.

Just got off the phone with mechanic. they replaced the manifold and they are still getting the same codes....they have a 2pm appt with Toyota

my rx300 exhaust manifold has a slight crack in it and is leaking possibly.  lexus tells me i'm out of warranty.  where would be the cheapest place i can find a replacement manifold?

←

out of warranty? what year and how many miles is your RX300

I just found out that I have same issue, but LOC member says the manual shows that this is covered for his 00 RX 300...mine is a 99 so hoping that doesn't make any difference. Calling Lexus tomorrow to find out..

bottom line, 6 year old expensive luxury car shouldn't have this kind of problem, I thought that was why we paid so much for the car...Quality!!!

my car is in a local shop, who has spoken with Lexus many times this week.

Will Lexus let other shops perform warranted services and cover the costs, or do they expect the car be brought to them for repair.

Where in the manual is it located, I don't have with me, it's in the car at the shop, but I can call them tomorrow to advise.

Thanks for your help.

Hello everyone. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask as I am a great resource.

FYI - Lexus coverage is not true bumper to bumper and only covers mechanical breakdown. It also excludes over heating. Knowing the difference is very important and can end up costing you several thousand dollars.

←

I purchased a 99 RX 300 AWD last July. Purchased an extended warranty from Preferred Warranty.

I just learned that my exhaust manifold is cracked (after replacing many parts due to check engine light codes and hours of diagnostics).

Extended warranty says not covered.

Shouldn't this be covered under the Lexus warranty 8 years/80,000 miles. The car is well maintained and per mechanic was very well maintained by previous owner. How in the world can such a high dollar car have a problem like this with only 66K miles and 6 years old???

Any help is appreciated.

cracked exhaust manifold...causing codes to go crazy

Cat is an emssion item and should be covered under 8 year 80k emission warranty.

If you are out of warranty, talk to your local trusted muffler shop. they may be able to take a look at the crack.  In most cases, weld it close instead of getting a new cat.  Good luck

←

Where can I find info about the 8 year 80K emmision warranty on my used RX.

After 5 days with the mechanic problem finally found:

PCV that I replaced didn't fit (must use OEM)

exhaust manifold is cracked and needs to be replaced. Per Mech-this can cause the codes to go crazy and read different stuff...

booo hooo!!!!$600-700 repair cost. Better than bad ECU...which he was leaning towards.

he did say that the car was in great shape and was well cared for by previous owner, so that makes me feel 100% better as I was falling out of love with this car and quick...I had these same issues with my 4-Runner, but no one could ever diagnose what the check engine light was on for on that one, that was why we parted company and I purchased the RX300.

shoot to..(AC/DC fan)

does the MPG jump up and down as you drive anywhere from 6-100 MPG?

is that normal? and how can i fix it.

plus i lost my manual but can anyone show me how to use the seat memory thing.

thanks

←

key switched on, car in park, press the set button and the number you want to save, keep pressed until you hear the beep.

there is one MPG that fluxuates as your drive and the other that records the "real" data. I avg 17 MPG 50% highway, 50%in city.