MitchB

i have the heater valve from a parts car if anyone needs. 55 shipped

If somebody can get me a pic of the valve, I'll post a part number for it.

... I still think its retarded that the A/C comes on when I hit the front defrost button, but oh well, nothing's perfect. Thanks again bess! :D

The A/C comes on to dry out the air, and the outside air is used so that you can push the moisture out of the car.

Personally, I immediately switch it to recirculate so it dries out even faster.

cool thanks for the help guys!! i just need to print this off get on ebay and then get to work on it!

I bought mine at AutoZone last spring for about $27 each. They have a speed limiter (like a shock absorber) in them so that once the lid is moving it goes up at a quick but constant rate.

When you get them, you MUST specify that whether or not you have a spoiler. (You just might have to help it up if you have the low-force units for no spoiler.)

Also, I found that for '99 SC300's nobody had a listing. Same shocks on a '96 that they do list.

BTW just cleaning the solenoid would have fixed the problem as well.

Not true if the contacts were worn out.

Damned, that's a bargain, for being installed. The Toyota starter I got recently for a Tacoma was $180 with a 25% discount (at the dealer).

Hopefully, the fuses blow before the alternator diodes short and kill your alternator.

I'd worry.

How come when I turn on the heater (Crank up the temp to 80ish, and press auto) the A/C light is still on? Blows warm as it should, but just curious.

But, to answer your question, the A/C button is used to "enable" the air conditioning. If you set the temperature to 80 and it's colder than 80 degrees in the car, it will run the heat. If the temp should somehow get too warm (say it's real sunny on a warm day), then the compressor will come on and cool the car interior. If you have the A/C light OFF, you can't cool the car.

The A/C light will be go ON anytime you set your climate control to AUTO so that the temperature inside the car will be maintained at the setpoint, regardless of whether you need heat or air conditioning.

AND, like the others have said, the air conditioning comes on to defog the windshield.

I sure hope you didn't spend money on an alternator replacement.

When starters fail, it's typically the solenoid contacts that go first, followed by brushes, followed by drive (mechanical) failures.

Toyota starters also tend to fail by not releasing (stopping) when you let go of the key. You hear a high-pitched sound that seems to be a "hissing" sound, but in fact, it's the gear drive in the starter. (Toyota-Lexus starters have a small motor that spins really fast with a gearbox to reduce the output shaft speed.) The stuck starter can sit there and run for up to a minute or so.

Well, let's remember that in '99, my car stickered for $47k. Inflation and other factors may shift that scale.

You also have to figure in the fact that my car was in VERY good condition, just short of excellent. I didn't haggle too much with the guy, I'm sure another $1k or so off might have been possible, perhaps not. He had a beautiful car to sell.

My own personal opinion is that I would never pay more than $10k for a SC.  Why?  Because there are plenty of them available.  Sure, you might end up w/ an older SC (like my 93), BUT in all honesty these cars are pretty low on maintenance. 

You have the common items that need replacing:

Control arms

Heater/Air control unit (blacked out display)

Instrument panel needles

Suspension (shocks/struts)

Your basic leather will need to be repaired in certain spots

CD player will probably need replacing (might as well change the whole sound system)

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Interesting how my fairly new, relatively low-mileage car has none of those problems (short of a leaky shock). :)

Perhaps that's why it's worth MORE than $10k, huh?

I've found a leaky right rear shock, that's all. I can't say that I can feel it in that corner, but I'll replace the pair. The list price is about only $60 each it seems.

I have the Premium audio as well, not the Nakamichi, no heated seats or Traction Control. I do wish I had the heated seats. Oh well.

I do really like the color. :)

I paid $17,250 for an Angora Beige '99 SC300 in May this year. It rates a 9.5/10, (maybe 9.0), 79k miles at purchase. A very clean car.

I live in Charlotte, NC. If cars (like everything else) in your area cost more than in Charlotte, it's probably a good deal.

I'd go with an average between KBB.COM Private Party and Retail. Get the car for a split between the two and it's a good deal, providing of course that there are no appreciable issues with it.

No NAV to my knowledge, that's way too early. After all, does it even have a CD in the dash (besides a trunk changer)? Mine does not.

Mass Air Flow meter.

Yikes, that was spendy for such a "simple" problem.

Most yards do give a short warranty on their parts, even electrical parts. I'd ask them if you haven't already.

Hope some one can give some input quickly here.  I replaced the MAF with one I got from wrecking yard and still getting check engine.  I read the code and still code 31. I decided to take it in to a Lexus dealer this morning and now got a call from them stating that their is something wrong with the ground wire and will require some time to replace or fix at $500.  Does any one know if this is true or is the dealer trying to make some money.

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Most mechanics can't use a voltmeter, much less have their service manager know what's wrong with your MAF without actually looking at the car.

Don't take it back there! Any reputable Toyota mechanic can do a good job.

Does it at least run now with the MAF installed?

OK, so THAT didn't work. A very new Toyota scan tool could not change the Body Computer "Customize" programming.

Anybody got any more ideas?

Well, you probably killed it with the TB cleaner, although, it may have been dying anyway. (An O2 code doesn't always mean that there's a bad O2 sensor.)

I'd be looking for a salvage yard unit.

The ECU will run the engine with no MAF, but not necessarily efficiently. (But not so badly either, obviously.)

Once you disconnect the MAF, the ECU defaults to maps. How did you clean the MAF? The best way is to use Electrowash spray or something similar.

What's the file name?

I very much appreciate the help, but I sure need more info.

Edit: Oh, ok, nevermind. :)

Like it says above. Is there a programming procdure to allow the doors to lock when the car comes out of Park, or hits a magic speed?

Probably 50K miles ago...Umm, the car goes straight when I let go of the wheel....

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That's a function of caster. Toe-in (or toe-out) affects how quickly the car responds to changes of the wheel. For instance, most autocrossers like to toe out their cars for better response. Sure, just don't drive it on the highway. :)

When's the last time you had an alignment? Front toe could be set too far out, whch makes the car dart-y and it will tramline a lot more than it should.

The last time I checked, 2+2+1 equals 5.

:)

Ok, a real Noob question.

Is the location of the SC300/SC400 rear nameplate different because of model, or year, or both?

Snake Oil or not, anybody that disputes your gas mileage gains would be calling you a liar, now wouldn't he?

Oh, and as far as Seafoam goes, it's nowhere near as effective as GM Top End Cleaner.