Icemaninlv

The truth is this is my wife's Saturn, but I know that this problem could happen to any car and perhaps someone here can benefit too.

I'm not sure if the problem existed before I flushed the coolant, so please don't assume that my flushing caused the problem, although it may have.

Car has high miles (180k) but has been well maintained. I did the coolant flush without chemicals but used a garden hose down the resovoir as per my Haynes manual. Coolant level is perfect, no leaks. But the car will not heat up to operating temperature. It hovers around the lowest mark and I know this is too low. There is warm heat from the vents but it isn't very hot. Doesn't matter if the car is driven 20 miles on the highway, same thing. Any suggestions?

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stuck open thermostat

10mm led will not fit inside the plastic rod thou 5 mil is prefect! Just up the MCD I used 5000MCD off of ebay 100 for 5 dollars running 4 in series with a 220 ohn resistor on my Yamaha R6 and it is pretty bright.

30 days no wax is because the paint is to soft and will asurb the wax and distort the color.

If you leave the bumper in the sun for a few days or even color sand and polish it then you can wax it.

30 days just covers the bodys shop liability in case the paint did not cure correctly. Giving them 30 days for it to cure, just leave it in the sun for a few days 2-3 and you will be good.

stock supra should put out 6 psi, also if you need the elbow for the exhaust portion of the turbo I think alamomotorsports.com has them. 3" elbow

here is the link

http://www.alamomotorsports.com/productsby...?/indexcat.html

turbonetics will do a -60 trim upgrade for 500 if you tell them your a member of SOGI.

i had this problem on my 87 supra turbo.

I had a Check engine light thou for knock sensor and come to find out both knock sensors shared a common ground and one of the sensors positive wires chaffed into that ground causing retarded ignition. I found this with a multimeter and the haynes manual. I ended up eliminating the ground shield and this way the 2 sensors would not touch and this fixed my problem until the oil pump blew but thats a whole other story.

BTW your sensors should be under the lower intake manifold a real pain in the !Removed! but if you plan on changing them I would be worth it to ohm out those wires your an engineer you should be able to fiqure that out.

ICE

had to bust out the mr2/supra turbo uhn!

Thats what my oil in that JDM engine looks like. I guess I'll bring it back here and do the heads on this engine also.

The oil is EXACTLY like that.

Also this new JDM from ASAP motors has water in the oil thinking its a head gasket. Beyond head gasket warrenty. I wish I had some C4.

Okay got a jdm in there and it runs rough.

It wont stay idle'd unless you disconnect the valve cover breather hose from the intake tube.

Any ideas?

As soon as I reconnect the hose it stalls.

Can I block this hose or something?

I did this to my 3.4L tacoma and the CAT went out within 500 miles. Truck has 80,000 on it wonder if it was the seafoam or time.

andy,

Before the smoke did the car have a hesitation? I changed the head gasket because of the white smoke. Eventually changing the engine. Now the car floods itsself and misfires and I have been thinking computer but everyone else says no. I have changed everything else nomore ideas.

So you changed the computer and the cylinders fired fine and still do?

Does anyone have the tube that goes down to the exhuast manifold from the EGR on a 92-93 es300?

Mike

shot me a email at icemaninlv@hotmail.com or a private message

Is it possibe to swap the 3vzfe to a 1M? If I get the harness and computer will the other connecters hook up from the dash to the newer computer?

Is it worth the trouble or just get the JDM 3vzfe for 1050 shipped.

What are the benifits?

Well you guys probaly remember my drama, well I got the smoke to go away and within 11 miles the engine was a knocking.

drained new 10/30 with oil seafoam dropped the pan and the screen looked like crap. Cleaned the screen, then I dropped the valley under the gridle. began feeling the piston rods and low and behold cylinder 3 shook!!!! pulled the cap and the bearing was siezed to the crank.

I said crap and over torqued the cap put everything back together put 20/50 oil castrol and started it with no exhaust runs good but can't tell if the knock is still there with the downpipe off!

SO,

Should I say

1. screw the car fill with a knock go away oil and trade it in.

2. hank the motor and replace the bottom end after I just fixed the top which by the way has to come off to reinstall pistons.

3. hank the motor and replace with a JDM or even 1MZ harness and puter?

4. car go BOOOOOM and me smile

ok one thing after another. smoke is all gone after 11 miles. Turned around to come home and the engine is knocking bad. thinking the belt slipped, I opened it up and it is dead on! Start it up and check the timing 10degrees.

the people that had it before me must of never changed the oil. When I changed it , it was very thick sludge almost. 220 000 miles and i put 10 30 with some sea foam to clean things and this is what happens.

tommorrow going to take oil pan off and look at the caps and bearings.

I haven't drove it yet, just ran it in the garage for about 15 min. When you rev it a big puff of smoke comes out and water in the tail pipe.

Going to pump tire up tonight and drive it for about 20-30 miles at dark so it isn't embrassing, you know?

Finally done with the head gasket and valve steam change. Is it normal to blow white smoke and a lil water out of the exhaust?

My thought on this is the water residual left in the cylinders burning off to white smoke. How long should this last? One mechanic told me I should drive it for 50 miles after a head gasket change. What is you alls thoughts on this?

I ordered a new gasket for the front head and they asked left or right. LEft or right from the pulleys? Well I ordered the right but it doesn't look right... On the front head to the left by the pulleys our those 2 big holes open or is one blocked any pictures would help or could some tell what side does the 4z code gasket go on? or the 51a side?

mike

i see them on ebay for about 895 plus shipping or pick up it is either the a540 or a541 do a search. some guy from AZ sells them

okay compression is front head 200psi across all 3

rear head is 220

taking heads off to see which one is blowing oil. hopefully its the valve steam seals on the head i forgot to change, just can't remember if i took them off.

once i put the stem seals back on I am going todo the valve clearance adjustment which took me a month on my supra and that had one head. wish me luck on that will be doing out of car for simplicity

I think I rushed it, to freaking hot here in texas and wanted out of the garage.

brandon if you read this tonight call me on my cell anytime. thanks

no typo just a dumba$$ no sleep no thinky worky.

shoots good. meter fine.

I tell you what thou I like working on airplanes much better than cars. to much BS in a car that doesn't make sense.

Also pulled a code 24 IATS where the hell is that sensor book had a picture but it did not help. I know what the sensor looks like since my bike has one but I don't see it in the car. 1993 ES300

looks like I have to take the heads back off and double check the valve stems. jeez I hate getting dirty. :cries:

changed distributer but g1 to ne still 265 were the book says max ohms is 250 is the new distributer bad?

Car smokes Blue (BAD) now and oil is out the tailpipe I think i forgot the rear head valve stem seals :chairshot: :chairshot: :chairshot: don't want to tear down again...

mine does the same thing. look at your distributer and ohm it out mine was bad between ne and g1 the crank and cam signals not correct.

does the smoke smell like gas. if so ohm your distributer pickup coil out.

looks like the distributer is bad between ne and g1 no cams or cranksignal to the ecu engine floods with fuel. new one will be here tuesday morning will reply when i put it in. wish me luck.