golffnutt

I am removing my starter and have removed the two bolts holding the starter but can not get the 2 wires unplugged on the side of the starter. Since they are held on with plastic connectors I am afraid to put too much pressure on them. Could someone please tell me how these connectors should be removed or unplugged. Thank you very much for your help.

u need parts or repair done there a guy owns a shop in plainfield good prices and takes care of custumer if u need any info or help email me at mike_mike926@yahoo.com

Thanks everyone, you have been a tremendous help. I think I will just go ahead and replace the starter. Might give it a shot myself since it seems fairly easy. Hope everyone has a great day and weekend.

I have been told they even sell those parts at Toyota, the phone number is on that site I sent you. apparantly their contacts are heavier than the standard toyota part. The other way is go and get the solenoid assembly which would replace the contacts and the solenoid that throws the gear into the flywheel.

Thank you lenore. I will look into your suggestion. Do you by chance know where the starter is located my car? Have a great evening and thanks a million for your help.

Does the starter try but not kick in? If so you might try this: http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/instructions.html

Thank you for the reply lenore. What happens is when I turn the key nothing happens. If I keep turning the key 9-10 time very rapidly it will finally start if I catch it just right. Thanks for the link, any idea where I can buy the contacts and plunge? Thanks very much for your help.

I need to replace the starter on my 96 ES300 and was wondering if anyone can tell me if the 96 Camry starter is the same as the 96 ES300 starter? Reason, I figure the Camry starter might be a little cheaper than the Lexus if they are indeed the same starter. Your reply will be greatly appreciated. Thank you and have a great evening.

PS - Can someone tell me where the starter is located on the engine? Thank you.

Golffnutt

Hope someone can help. When I turn the key, car won't start, if I keep turning the key off and on real fast and kind of pull out on the key then it will finally catch and crank. Does this sound like the ignition switch, starter, or battery terminals maybe have a short? I appreciate any input and help I can get on this, thank you so much.

Another nice all around tire for a good price is another Kumho product, the Kumho Solus KH16. I put a set of these on my 1999 ES300 and love the ride. They have been great in the rain and have even been decent in the snow.

I agree with the others that you don't need to spend a bundle on the trendy names to get a good tire. Good luck.

Neb & Golf,

Check out the ASX vs. KH16 Kuhmo: the ASX is higher rated in all categoreies for just pennies more/tire. They are both overall value leaders, the ASX is just higher mileage and speed rated. The KH may indeed be a tad quieter, but not anything significant. You can't go wrong with either one!

Thanks guys I really appreciate the input. Have a great day.

:)

Supraman thank you. As for price I would obviously like to stay under $100 per tire but am willing to consider higher if and only if there may be something out there that is head and shoulders above the rest. $125.00 max per tire though. I will definitely look into the Kuhmo for sure. Thank you.

92lex thank you, any other recommendations out there guys? Thanks.

Supraman thank you. As for price I would obviously like to stay under $100 per tire but am willing to consider higher if and only if there may be something out there that is head and shoulders above the rest. $125.00 max per tire though. I will definitely look into the Kuhmo for sure. Thank you.

You did not mention budget as one of your parameters, but I assume that would be a plus also. The Kuhmo ASX is a great tire at $49 each at Tire Rack.com; an ultra high performance all season category tire with an outstanding 420AA rating. Read some of their 1133 customer reviews (!) on this tire, comparative test results, and technical specs that performs far beyond it's cheapo price. You can spend a lot more for less tire, check out the 18 competitors reviews. If you have a Tire Kingdom/NTB outlet locally, they have a Tire Rack national account and can order this tire for you. You do pay sales tax this way, but get the convenient local outlet road hazard service rather than TR's if you like this option. Or you can just be like everyone else and go plunk down the most money for some name brand Eurotire and hope everyone is impressed by the sidewall branding when you are parked! I drive hard and have 30000+ miles on mine, getting another set when these Kuhmo's need refreshing. This is a comfortable, quiet tire which exceeds expectations for the price.

SupraMan thank you for that informative list. I will take your suggestion and do some homework for sure on this tire. Have a great day.

Looking for new tire brand recommendations for my '96 ES300. My priority in tires is:

1) Quiet

2) Traction

3) Comfortable Ride

Thank you for your suggestions.

Golffnutt

Would anyone happen to know where I could download FSM for '96 ES300? Thank you.

Can anyone help? When I try to download the service manuals for the ES300 it asks me for a serial number. Any idea how I get the serial number? Thank you very much for your help.

fluguyco could you share the online address with us on where you bought the spray paint? Thank you.

jonw440 where can I buy all of the supplies you mentioned in your paint repair guide? Thank you.

It's been so long since I ditched it from my car I don't exactly remember. :(

The EGR pipe is held into the rear exhaust manifold by a JIC compression fitting. That EGR pipe snakes up through a "block" that runs under the upper intake that is water cooled (most people thing the throttle body is cooled, actually it's not, the coolant flows through the EGR to cool it down, and exits the throttle body).

The EGR "block" dumps the exhaust into the bottom of the intake manifold (in a seperate chamber) that routes it to the EGR valve, then the rest is obvious. Valve controls the flow and routes it back into the upper intake manifold.

AFAIR there's nothing else to it. You take your bolts off, and pull the entire assembly off. It's a little exhaust gasket, I don't remember it being a silicon glue or anything (that would more than likely melt). The little actuators on top simply pul off.

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toysrme thanks for trying to help me but I guess this job is just more complicated than my skills. I know I have to remove the egr valve from the egr pipe in order to clean the passage way and unstick the valve if that is the problem. I still have no clue on how to remove the valve from the pipe to check the valve, guess I will just have to pay someone an ungodly amount of money to do something that is probably ridiculously easy to do. Thanks again for trying to help.

My check engine light is on and the code reads it is a faulty EGR flow.  I would like to remove the EGR valve and clean it and the passeage way out with carb cleaner before buying a new valve.  Problem is it is screwed on from inside the valve and I see no way of how to unscrew it.  Is there a special tool required?  Can anyone please lend any advice on this?  I would really appreciate the help very much.  Thank you.

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Thank you very much for the reply. I did indeed take the three bolts loose but I could not get the egr valve off the egr pipe in order to clean it good. How do I get the egr valve off the egr pipe? This is my problem. Thank you again for your help.

My check engine light is on and the code reads it is a faulty EGR flow. I would like to remove the EGR valve and clean it and the passeage way out with carb cleaner before buying a new valve. Problem is it is screwed on from inside the valve and I see no way of how to unscrew it. Is there a special tool required? Can anyone please lend any advice on this? I would really appreciate the help very much. Thank you.

Today the check engine light came on in my 1996 ES300. When I had the code read it states "egr valve flow malfuntion". It was suggested that I remove and clean the egr valve and that would probably cure the problem. I have tried to do this but can not figure out how to remove the valve from the pipe it is attached to. The valve appears to be pressed into the pipe or is part of the pipe of something, at any rate I see no screw or bolt that just holds the valve to this pipe. There are 3 screws which hold the pipes in place but those do not allow me to remove the valve from the pipe to clean the passage way. Any help help would be greatly appreciated as I am sure this is such a common problem that many of you have done this before. Thank you VERY MUCH for your help an advice.

The factory advises replacing, not cleaning the EGR valve.  However, you can clean the EGR piping out of accumulated carbon if there is significant buildup.

The solution to avoiding EGR valve and system problems is minimize the amount of unburned hydrocarbons that are generated by the engine to begin with.  That is accomplished by changing spark plugs and motor oil more often than the minimum frequency intervals called for in the owners manual and always using the exact same spark plugs that the factory installed.  It also means changing the oxygen sensor about every 100,000 - 125,000 miles or so and cleaning the throttle plate of deposits about every 30,000 miles.  Also means keeping the cooling system in perfect, factory orignal shape.  I followed these guidelines and my factory original EGR system is still functioning well after 464,000 miles.

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Monarch thanks for the detailed reply. I just bought the car and have no prior service records so I do not know how well maintained the car has been although I really think it was well cared for. Has 143,000 miles runs and looks great, this is the first problem I have had with it. The check engine light was not on last night when I came home from the office, but when I started the engine this morning to go to work the check engine light was on and has been all day today. Guess I will have to replace the EGR valve as you say. How would you suggest cleaing out the piping as you suggested? Thanks again for the info.

Today my check engine light came on in my 1996 ES300. The troublenote says "egr valve flow malfunction". It was recommended that I remove the egr valve and clean it good with carb cleaner. I tried getting it off but could not get it off the pipe it is attached to. It looks like it is pressed into this pipe or something and not screwed into it. Can anyone tell me how to remove this puppy so I can try cleaning it before I have to invest $200 plus in a new one, I would reallly appreciate the help. Also if anyone has a recommendation on a source that may have a good price please email me their website address. Again, I would really appreciate any help or advice anyone could give me. Thank you very much.

www.rockauto.com & www.sparkplugs.com also carry them

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Thanks guys, one of these should work fine. As always appreciate the help. Have a great weekend.

Can anyone recommend a source or sources for cabin filter for 1996 ES300, my dealer wants $47 bucks, I just don't see that for a piece of paper. Thanks for your suggestions please.

Golfnutt, I have an Aspec bar that retails for more on the website, but I bought on ebay for around $2.00 + $16.99 shipping lol.  Anyway, it only clears the engine by 1-2mm which is too close for my taste so I am still in search for one with more clearance.  But I do notice a difference in handling.  If I drive @ 35mph without it and jerk the wheel in either direction, there is a noticable delay in the jerk of the wheel and the actual turn in the car.  However, with the bar installed, if I jerk the wheel, the actual response time is undetectable.  I have not actually investigated the bars performance at high speeds, but that is what I notice when it is installed.  They all claim to be manufactured from high quality billet aluminum, same as aircraft  <_<, but serve there purpose.  I bought 18" rims and expect to receive them in about 3 weeks so I believe this will have the same performance effect on cornering as the bar so I will probably not reinstall it. 

My $.02,

Snes

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Thanks guys for all the great input, I think you have convinced me I do not need this add on. I really appreciate your time and responses.

Golfnut

Look at all the pics they are the exact same.

Unless their is another company making them i have not seen them besides the vibrant/ractive style ones.

The trd one does not fit though

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Again I go back to my question to you before, are you speaking from direct experience having used one of the cheap bars and also having used one of the more expensive bars and compared the two? I understand and know what you mean about basement manufacturers, trust me, I have not been a National Sales Manager of Consumer Products for manufacturers for 30 years for nothing. I know and understand mark ups and margins to the inth degree. Unless you have personally tried and compared the inexpensive to the expensive version I just do not think you are qualified to say one is as good as the other. Please do not take this personal or the wrong way, this is just how I feel and nothing is going to change that, hope you understand. Maybe I will try one of the cheap bars, I certainly wouldn't have much to lose, money wise that it, but I would still like a few more opinions. Thanks again for your input.