Teekster
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Posts posted by Teekster
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No. I had to send my LCD climate control and clock display to some guy on the east coast. This was about 10 years ago. I had to remove the control unit from the dash and maiil it to him. I can't find the name of the guy who replaced the LCD panel but it has been working fine while my dash was black.
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Still trying to find the location and type of capacitors needed to repair an intermittant blacked out instrument cluster. I just ordered a replacement C6 capacitor.. Are ther any other capacitors I shou;d replace. I have a '91 LS400. Thanks, Teekster
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On 10/4/2006 at 4:57 AM, bigo said:
I tried to download the attachment, but could not, can you Email it to me??
Thanks Jerry
I also tried to download this file but it is empty. Can you email it to me?
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On 8/14/2017 at 12:08 PM, Riet said:
Hello
I haverá Lexus Ls 400 year 1991 and I Live in Brasil.
I am triyng to find out tô locate C147 and 142 caps no my 91 Ls 400
the C212 I allready found out to be the C6
can anyoune help me.
tanks
I know it's been awile but did you ever figure out if your '91 LS400 needed any other capacitors on the instrument cluster circuit board. Did replacing the C6 capacitor work for you?? Thanks, Terry
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So I have not seen any info on the location and specific capacitors needed to repair an intermittant black screen 1991 Lexus LS 400 instrument cluster. Can someone please help????? There is plenty of info on '93 to '94 LS400, but nothing on the '90 to '92 LS400. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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So I have not seen any info on the location and specific capacitors needed to repair an intermittant black screen 1991 Lexus LS 400 instrument cluster. Can someone please help????? There is plenty of info on '93 to '94 LS400, but nothing on the '90 to '92 LS400. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
1991 Ls 400 Instrument Panel
in 90 - 00 Lexus LS400
Posted
I replaced the C6 (220ufx25V)
C24 (820 ufx25V), and C25 (820ufx25V). All 3 are brown QAS capacitors which apparently are prone to leaking. All 3 are located on the small power board mounted on top of the larger board. It is right underneath the metal cover. Very easy to get to remove since you have to get to the back of the board to remove the capacitors. I used a mechanical de-soldering suction plunger tool (probably on Amazon). Apply a dab of flux to the pins, apply soldering pencil heat, and suck out the excess solder from the back of the pin to expose the tiny holes that the capacitors attach to. Also, bend the existing pins to a vertical position, so they can pull straight out from the top of the board. Failure to do that may rip the tiny metallic connector imbedded at the connection point. MY INSTRUMENT CLUSTER CAME BACK TO LIFE AFTER REPLACING THE 3 CAPACITORS with black, electrolytic capacitors with the same values. Hope that helps