RX3FIFTY

oh BTW, the 164k wouldnt necessarily scare me if the price was right and evidence of maintenance exists (plugs, WP, VVT oil lines, etc)

1) has water pump been replaced? Probably has... 2) look for any sign of oil leak especially above/dripping onto passenger control arm area 3) agree with Dave on having it inspected if you can and dont know much about mechanical 4) I would pull a vin check. Not necessarily car fax which is pricey. I would avoid buying from a used car dealer (small mom and pop not say Lexus Pre Owned which would be fine and also would not sell a rx350 with 160k+ miles....) They source from auction almost exclusively. There is a reason its in auction...normally. I have been doing this a long time and every time I buy from a used car lot I swear I wont do it again. Never learn (hammer to head. Repeat.)

UPDATE: Installed said spacers, no rub on full lock on front and no rub rear under full droop. Bad news? Found oil leak coming from what appears to be an area behind the PS pump. Not good. Praying to the God of Banjo Bolts that its a bad washer at the rear VVT oil line but I am not hopeful my prayers are being heard. Probably timing cover given my luck (if it wasnt for bad luck, I wouldnt have no luck at all........ )

UPDATE: Went for alignment, Northwoods spacers align front perfectly aside from Toe of course. The rear did not require adjustment as it was still in spec with the Highlander struts. Installed 245/60 18 Goodyear Trail AT's. Looks great but fronts rub slightly on full lock and rears on full droop touch the inside lower flap bolt. Ordered 15MM front and 20MM rear spacers which should solve both issues. Disconnected rear sway seems to make little to no difference.

BTW keyed lug nuts do nothing to thwart any modestly skilled dirt bag from getting the wheels. I can get those off with no problem and I dont do it for a living...

Realize i am monologuing here but just trying to be helpful. If one is seeking 2-2.5" all spring lift, I think this is the way to go. Just purchase the entire preloaded strut (about $150 each kyb SR4446 and 4447} and away you go. You just need to determine best route for front. I didn't want that much lift but its there for the rear pretty simply. I am sure you will need camber bolts for rear. I disconnected sway bar in rear with no adverse effects. BTW, Northwoods Performance (Nathan) sells the correct length links for the front. Works perfect. Alignment tomorrow, will report back but I think camber is ok in rear. Northwood spacers in front have camber adjustment engineered in.

UPDATE: Problem Found. Do NOT use the Loaded Strut Assembly JUST the strut and transfer over your coils using the highlander top plate. PITA but cheaper anyway. The coils from the HIghlander are taller and provide over 2" lift. Probably about 2.5". The downside of course is that by using the RX coils on the Highlander strut you lose about an inch of up travel. However, the highlander internal bump stops are about an inch shorter so who knows. Furthermore noteworthy, is that the Highlander bolts at the knuckle appear to be about 17 mm vs the RX of 15 mm. At nearly 200 lb of torque on those bolts, it's probably not an issue but if it is I'm just going to order up the Highlander bolts and bore the knuckle. The coils transfer onto the HIghlander struts fine using the Highlander top plate as it is different. The net lift is a hair over 1" so a 1/2" spacer for the rear might be a nice offering as the Highlander strut does allow for larger tires of course. Bottom Line: works good but do not use the LOADED Strut assembly....just the strut.

1) ordered the tema4x4 spacers for the front - Not happy. Do not want that much flex between the unibody tower and top strut plate 2) stumbled on Northwoods Performance - FAR superior in Every way. 3) installed the Highlander rear struts - was expecting 1.25" lift - gave me more like 2.5" lift. WHAT GIVES? Anybody else experience that? 07 RX