austinkwebb

On 5/27/2018 at 1:48 AM, Brokeboi said:

Hey, great write up! 

I need your expertise, please. I removed the diff but I dont know how to remove the driveshaft. 

As you can see my diff has a part of the driveshafts cv joint, im pretty sure the black part separates from the other rusty looking part coming from the diff(in your pic the diff only has that part) i am not sure how to pry them apart. They seem as if they are a single unit.

If I remember correctly that stays on the diff but it has been awhile.

5 hours ago, vol96 said:

Thanks for the write up.  I may have to do this in the next week or so.  I have gear lube leak from front diff on my 2007 GS350 190k miles.

Instead of the bar to hold the engine up, can the engine be supported by floor jack on oil pan with boards to spread the load?

Does pass side cv axle need to be removed?  Wont it pull away from diff when diff removed?

 

No, you have to remove both shafts trust me. You won’t have room but if you try and it works let me know. As far as supporting the engine that’s fine, just be safe

http://www.x2industries.com/lexus-2002-2009-lexus-gx470-front-and-rear-air-suspension-conversion-kit-p-11524.html#.Ws603xopDxw

https://www.arnottindustries.com/c-2410-arnott-rear-coil-spring-conversion-kit-03-09-lexus-gx-470-toyota-land-cruiser-prado

https://www.arnottindustries.com/c-2410-arnott-rear-coil-spring-conversion-kit-03-09-lexus-gx-470-toyota-land-cruiser-prado

This is a common issue. If you’re handy I suggest a diy. The kits to convert them to struts in the rear are coming down in price but if a bag blew you can easily fix it for hundreds not thousands. The pump too. Besides, if it is an extra car you can always diy it over the course of several weekends. If not take it from the dealer and let some mechanic with a reasonable labor rate have at fixing it. I think your pricing there is way off unless at the stealership. They are great vehicles and definitely hold they’re value. Scrap on it would be 500-600 max? Hell im in TN and I’d come get it and fix it for that price man.

This is 100% normal and characteristic of the Toyota gps systems. Nothing you can do about it unless you buy a GROM VLINE and use Waze 

No, nothing special. Just push in the pistons in the calipers and monitor that brake fluid level at the front because pushing them back in will raise the level of the fluid and that stuff WILL eat your paint right off the car. Do not let any fluid out without sucking it out with like a turkey baster right into a container cleanly.

I suppose that maybe the wording is likely generic and legal. I know that these engines have a timing chain which is relatively not serviced until / if they make noise. I would not worry, it does have a chain. 

Never ever trust any car to an "oil change" location. For 60k you need the following and either do it yourself (husband, son, you or someone competent) or take it to a place you can trust. Will it cost more? Sure but breaking stuff down the road costs more. Pro tip.... Find a Toyota dealer instead of Lexus to service it. They can do the job but hourly are cheaper. This is the list:

30K Service
Engine Oil & Filter
OEM Intake Air Filter or "xxx" Drop in
Radiator Coolant
Tranny Fluid
Brake Fluid
Differential Fluid
Rotate Tires
Inspect Brakes
Internal Air Condition Filter
Check Strategic Bolts "Listed in manual"

If you're issue is what you claim I believe it is a recall which shouldn't cost you anything. However the diagnosis is going to cost you money if you tell them you're hearing noises if they want to be a pain. Check and see if the recall has been applied to you.

Like any other operation if you've worked with other cars with calipers. Open brake reservoir and watch level, push in pistons, caliper the rotor thickness and brake lathe if needed, apply non squeak grease to backing plates, install new clips if needed, install pads, reinstall caliper. Nothing special, and no frills. 

Timing chain in a 2gr

You're exactly right. That's the alternator. That's the exact sequence that happens on all Lexus' with alternator issues. Power steering is electric in these cars. Nav screens will flash then go out.

I ran into the issue of buying a gs350 awd with a front differential exploded. Well, I looked and you guys didn't have any tutorials at all. All of your standard car manuals will tell you to remove the engine. I say that seems a bit excessive and so I did the job today without it.

1. Get a bar (like a handle from a jack, like I used) and put blocks of wood on the ends to hold it up above the intake. There is a picture showing this. Put home made brackets on the header studs and bolt them down. Tie the engine up with the bar.

2. Remove both front wheels and discard them for now.

3. Remove both tie rods, sway bar ends, lower ball joints, and bottom of strut mount.

4. Pull CV axles out.

5. Remove all wires going to steering rack.

6. Remove steering rack bolts.

7. Remove front drive shaft.

8. Drain oil from front differential if you haven't already because I forgot to tell you earlier lol.

9. Remove steering from rack (the spline)

10. Remove bolts from both motor mounts.

11. Stick a jack under the frame and drop the frame with the wishbones on it.

(Optional steps) use these only if the right hand axle is giving you a fit and won't come out.

11a. Loosen tensioner and remove drive belt.

11b. Loosen bolts and move out ac compressor

12. Unbolt the front differential, pull it off and beat the axle out from the left side of the car

----- 

Unoptional 

12. Unbolt front differential and remove from car.

End.

Repeat backwards to go back together.

(End of optional steps)