blackes2000

I understand. I'm sure that it can be fixed but I'm not an electrical expert and for $100, I'm going to just buy a new coil. Then I'm going to have the rest of the plugs replaced by a dealer. I can't afford to break another one. Do you know if you have to take the intake plenum off to get to the rear 3 plugs? Any gaskets, etc that need to be replace?

Let me clarify.. Is there anyway to fix the broken coil? It's nothing more than a metal clip?!

Hmac,

My problem occurs much less now. Probably once every 3 weeks. I was changing the plugs last night when I went to pull the coil off and the clip broke off. I'm hoping that the new plugs add to the problem occurring less. I would start with a motorvac service, it cleans your whole upper throttle body. That's what helped me a lot.

The throttle body may need some more cleaning.

As a motorvac cleans everything that comes into contact with gas not air. So the throttle body is before them and is cleaned by a can sprayed by the tech.

It probably needs to thave the secondary bypass recleaned.

Take it back and mention it to them, they might redo the throttle body for free.

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Thanks man,

I think I have to take off the plenum to get to my 3 rear plugs, where the plenum attaches to that intake, is that where I should spray the injector cleaner? Speakign of which, do I need to take off that plenum to get to the rear plugs?

I'm screwed,

I started to replace my plugs in my 2000 ES300. I pulled off the first coil and the clip came out of the coil boot. This is the clip that actually snaps onto the tip of the spark plug. VV-Timing engine. It has 6 coils, (one for each plug). At $100 a pop I'm scared as heck to pull off the next one. Are they all going to break off? Is there a way to fix it without buying a new coil? Does anyone know what I'm talking about?

The whine is gone! I had a timing belt service done on my car and I asked the dealer to also lubricate the wheel for me. They did it for free and it no longer whines.

Well, I just got the motorvac service. $85 to plug this tank into one of my intake hoses and run the car for 30 minutes. The problem ceased for a week then I had an incident yesterday but the car never stalled. the idle just crept along at 350 then I gave it the gas. So basically it has made the problem occur less. I am now going to put in iridium plugs and new wires and see where that gets me. I have to change the timing belt in two weeks so I'm trying to not replace the IACV if I don't have to. Of course, the mechanics want at least $500 to replace it. May have to do it myself.

Thanks steviej. I'll try that out.

blackes2000

I always use premium gasoline. Plugs and wires definitely need to be changed out. I picked up some iridium plugs but just haven't done it yet. I have not put any injector cleaner in it. Can you recommend an injector cleaner?

No, I was surprised about this. I don't think it could be a major problem but I just can't figure what it is. I haven't done much work on this car. I used to do all my own work but now I live in the city and don't have a driveway.

Hey all, I have a 2000 ES w/ almost 90'000 on it. Lately when I start it , it will turnover, RPM's hit 500 for a second and then it stalls. It is cured by stepping on the accelerator to get the RPM's up to idle, then it's fine for the rest of the ride and there is no stalling at all. This just started happening and it's erratic, it does not happen most of the time. Any idea what this could be?

I had always thought that some spray silicone would do the trick. I'll try this and get back to all of you.

I know what you are saying but the whine is a faint internal whine, it's not coming from the engine compartment. It's actually coming from the steering column and it's really high pitched, almost like air escaping.

I have a 2000 ES 300. When I steer the wheel it whines a little. It's a faint noise and it sounds like it's coming right from the wheel. It's definitely not an external noise. HAs anyone experienced this? Know what it is? Or most importantly, how I can fix it?