dfkd

I only say that because when I replaced my wires, I put in one of my rotors 180 degrees off and the car did start and run with it that way (was running on 4 cylinders). I made that very mistake myself.

I realised something was wrong because my cat's were getting too hot and i tested to find which rotor was in wrong using the method i described.

The car will run with the messed up one disconnected but not with the proper one disconnected.

If it runs with either one disconnected they're both fine and this issue is something else.

I suggest it because it's an easy test. Just unplug the coils one at a time.

So all this conflicting data got me curious so I headed to my car and found that the previous owner received a handout maintenance schedule from Lexus some time after 1999 as it is labeled "1999 and prior model year vehicles."

Again, the data doesn't match what the website said.

This schedule actually specifies different replacement schedules for platinum plugs vs iridium plugs.

I do find that every 3 years or 48,000km for the air filter to be absurd.

I'd assume we can take this one as being correct; at least for the cars 1999 and older.

NOTE: mileages are in KM (Canadian car).

Maintenance_Schedule_in_print_small.pdf

CHecking the one for the 2000 model, it also shows a 60,000 mile schedule for the spark plugs.

Darn, sorry. For some reason I assumed he had a 1st gen.

Here's the version for a 2003 LS.

2003_maintenance_intervals.pdf

Here's a place to get maintenance schedules, TSBs, and recall info:

http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/select.html

The maintenance schedule on edmunds DOES NOT match the maintenance schedule in the maintenance booklet for my 2000 LS400.

From AARC attached.

scheduled_maintenance_intervals.pdf

I get the same thing from mine on humid days. When I lived in Trinidad it was the norm (humidity always around and over 90%).

It's like opening your fridge on a humid day, the low temp in the humid air essentially makes the water vapour in the air into clouds.

I would suspect that you may have either wired the distributors incorrectly or put one of the rotors in wrong (180 degrees off) so the spark timing is incorrect on 4 cylinders.

Easiest test is to go in and unplug one of the two coils and attempt to start the car. If it will run with either one of them out then it's wired correctly and the issue is elsewhere.

If it will run with one unplugged but when the other is unplugged it will not start, that means that the one that it would run alone with is okay and the other has an issue (that sentence will make sense after a couple reads).

They're about the same size as stock but look so different. Crazy what a difference round vs oval makes.

I just noticed my steering rack boot is ripped on the drivers side on my 93 LS, is there a two piece made? If not is there a DIY for replacing it?

You should just need to remove the ends to install a one piece. Shouldn't be terrible.

Valued at over $700 too!

You guys are GENIOUS!

Never knew about car-part and just tried it. Found seats and everything for my 94 right near me. And I live in Ontario; I could never find anything.

Damn I love this club!

Fact is though, most of what is sold as "injector cleaner" is just a small bottle of kerosine anyway.

If it's on permanently there's an issue.

These are known to give a false positive at times just after a cold start but in that case it generally turns off after about 20 seconds.

Essentially there are 2 wires in the sensor. When the brakes are worn the sensor rubs on the rotor, breaking the connection between the wires.

To bypass the sensor, thus disabling the warning light, simply expose the wire (most people cut off the top of the sensor and strip the plastic housing off the wire) and connect the wires, closing the circuit.

The light will go off.

Unless you happen to be in Canada where I was quoted a whoping $110 each.

I used a method that was suggested by another club member.

It involved adding a line in to the cd changer inputs at the back of the deck. (I used a wiring diagram to find the correct lines).

Then I had to create an 80 min CD of...silence. This ensures that the CD source input is active but with no sound (the car is technically playing a silent cd).

That's about it!

Works great., perfect sound, and only costed me a 3.5mm extension that I picked up at a dollar store somewhere, a blank CD and about an hour of my time.

ORIGINAL POST

Completely different stuff.

WD40 may actually damage the rubber.

Silicone lube is cheap (around $5) and one can will last you a long long time.

This could be a problem.

The few times that I set off my alarm the one thing I noticed is that the car immediately locks EVERYTHING.

The first time I set it off I had left the windows down but locked the car with the remote.

When I came back I reached through the driver window to physically open the lock...it didnt like that.

The car forcefully pulled the lock back to the closed position and started blairing. It actually hurt my finger!

Even the hood is alarmed in this car.

I'm thinking that getting in there will probably require getting to the keys through the inside of the car.

Should be great with proper shielding of the bulb.

Mine are really good and the only thing causing some light to leak vertically is the textured lens.

It reconfigures the transmission to downshift easier and to stay in gears to higher engine speeds thereby keeping the engine closer to it's max hp and max torque.

It does burn more gas because it runs the engine at higher speeds.

So, if you lock them out will they then drill your tank? Bad times we are aheading for.............

This sounds more like fear mongering and urban legend than truth. Think about it, if you are out in a parking lot siphoning gas, and come across a car with a locked cap, are you more likely to a) slide under the car, break out the trusty heavy duty drill you always carry around, and drain the gas that way or B) move on to the next car.

I'm not saying it's never happened, but you'd have to be a pretty stupid criminal to choose a.

So true. I'm sure they go after the Suburbans with 30 gallon gas tanks than ours.

Though you'd expect ours to actually have gas in it, so I can see the logic in that too.

In desperate times I have driven the car to a curb and put one front wheel on the curb (higher the better) and the other not.

This lifts the car just enough to get under there.

Never leave your ramps at the in-laws.

Full walkthrough here...

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/steering/pspumprebuild.html

Well from the listings I have, this is a 9.3 hour job so labour would be your biggest cost.

But at least it's not 12.8 hours like it is for the 90 - 94 LS.

That would be a blown bulb somewhere on the outside of the car.

If it comes on as soon as the outside (nighttime) lights are turned on check for your parking lights.

If it comes on when you step on the brake check out your brake bulbs.