Ok...so here is what I found out checking the EGR. The OHMS check turned out ok. While still installed on the vehicle, I followed the procedure of disconnecting the battery then checking the resistance between the B1/B2 terminals and all of the S terminals. They were all within 22-23 ohms.. so basically w/in spec. And i was going to leave it at that, but I wanted to make sure, so I removed the EGR valve and checked the plunger/valve opening and closing according to the standard test, which is to apply positive voltage to both of the B terminals, then applying negative/ground to the S terminals in sequence. Basically you ground the S4/S3 terminals, then S3/S2, and so on.... and each time the valve is suppose to open further and further.... now while holding the EGR, I could FEEL the 'clicking' or whatever you wanna call it whenever I would apply negative to the S terminals, but I could not visibly SEE the plunger moving upward, as it should to open the valve. So, I removed the plunger/solenoid from the metal housing and checked further...and sure enough, even though you can FEEL the motor trying to move the plunger, it would not move in either direction when grounding any of the S terminals in sequence. now you can manually move the plunger up/down and it will return to the down position on its own, but the electronic solenoid would not move the plunger up at all...so I am going to ASSUME this means the EGR valve is bad....any thoughts?